First I must say this is a great forum.  I have been lurking for a few weeks now.  There is alot of great information on jon boats here.  I recently purchased a jon boat with the intentions on modding it into a bass boat.  I have done a bit of research including purchasing the Hydrilla guide to jon boat conversion.  I must say that it was not what I thought it would be.  Probably the most helpful part of the ebook are the photos of the boats.  The search button is my friend and I have put it through it's paces.  I do have a few unanswered questions though.  Here goes:

1.  Some of the conversions I see on the net use alot of wood in the boat.  These boats have to be pushing their weight limit.  I am going to try and get some aluminum angle for my support but in the mean time It is plywood and 2x4s.  Aside from taking your boat to a scale, how do you know how much weight you have in your boat?

2.  I will try attach a picture of my front deck.  How would you recommend mounting a trolling motor?  I have a Minn Kota edge 5042.  There is about a 5.25 drop from the front nose of the boat the the deck.  I have looked at alot of photos but in most of the photos the mount is carpeted not allowing me to see what it is made of.  What are you guys using to raise the mount flush with the top of the boat?

3.  The directions that came with the trolling motor recommend the nose of the motor be in the center of the boat.  Some of you have yours this way and some do not.  I would prefer to mount mine on the left side to keep my deck clear.  How would this effect the performance?

4.  I picked up some outdoor carpet adhesive for my deck.  Unfortunatly it seems like it is beginning to melt in the Tennessee heat.  What do you use to glue your carpet?  I have heard it recommended to use contact cement.

Time to get back to work.  More questions to come.  

If you want to know how much weight you are adding to your boat Just use a bathroom scale with all the materials before you install them.  Just weigh as much as you can at one time so lower the inaccuracy that those scales can have at the lower weights.  You can even weigh yourself and then do it again with  the completed deck before it is fastened to the boat and it will give you a rough idea.

I would also recommend contact cement for your carpet.  One trick is to apply to both surfaces, let dry, and reactivate one side with a rag soaked in acetone or MEK and quickly stick them together.  I have used this procedure for aircraft interiors and leading edge deicing boots with zero glue failures.

Andy

Great job on the deck so far!! Its looking good.  I am also working on the same project with a trolling motor mount on my jon boat.  I have decided to make mine out of aluminum and rivet it to the boat.  Although I am having a lot of help from a good friend on mine who is a fabricator for a nascar team so he really knows what he is doing.  That always helps.  ;D But im "he" is making it out of .125 gage aluminum  bent and formed to the size needed.  Ill post pics as soon as its done.  Maybe that will give you some ideas.  I have also seen them made out of 2x4s and just plywood boxes cut to fit.  All will work I just like the look of the aluminum and the idea that once I get it right it want rot out on me.

1.  Some of the conversions I see on the net use alot of wood in the boat.  These boats have to be pushing their weight limit.  I am going to try and get some aluminum angle for my support but in the mean time It is plywood and 2x4s.  Aside from taking your boat to a scale, how do you know how much weight you have in your boat?

I would worry about weight as well. Especially knowing that wood can quadruple in weight when it gets wet. Fishing in the rain could be dangerous! LOL!

you should not use treated lumber with aluminum!!!! The chemicals it leaches rot aluminum! The chemicals are also poisonous to fish/water. If the protective coating of paint on the boat gets worn off and the wood gets wet...it will leach chemicals that will damage the aluminum. This is why any siding guy or carpenter worth his salt will never wrap treated lumber!

If fact my nieghbor just failed his building inspection for just this reason!

1.  Some of the conversions I see on the net use alot of wood in the boat.  These boats have to be pushing their weight limit.  I am going to try and get some aluminum angle for my support but in the mean time It is plywood and 2x4s.  Aside from taking your boat to a scale, how do you know how much weight you have in your boat?

I would worry about weight as well. Especially knowing that wood can quadruple in weight when it gets wet. Fishing in the rain could be dangerous! LOL!

you should not use treated lumber with aluminum!!!! The chemicals it leaches rot aluminum! The chemicals are also poisonous to fish/water. If the protective coating of paint on the boat gets worn off and the wood gets wet...it will leach chemicals that will damage the aluminum. This is why any siding guy or carpenter worth his salt will never wrap treated lumber!

If fact my nieghbor just failed his building inspection for just this reason!

This absolutely true. I am almost positive you can purchase Aluminum flashing that is treated so that the chemicals used in treating pressure treated lumber will not react with the Aluminum. I thought I came across this type of product at HD, when I was looking for copper flashing.

pain...I may steal the slinky comment in your signature...that has got to be the funniest thing I have seen in a long time!

Wolmanized® wood made with Copper Azole is a product of Arch Treatment Technologies, a subsidiary of Arch Wood Protection, Inc.

A comprehensive study of occupational, residential, and playground uses of wood pressure-treated with copper azole preservative has concluded, No adverse health effects are expected.'' The methodology and conclusions of the study, conducted by Gradient Corporation, were reviewed by other scientists and found to be sound, earning Gradient, a noted environmental and toxicological firm, an award for the study by the Risk Assessment Specialty Section (RASS) of the Society of Toxicology.

To stop any chemical reactions with the aluminum simply apply a thin layer of sealant between the aluminum and the wood.

wow catt...

great info.

or you could avoid the problem all together and use standard lumber...or better cedar lumber...and spar varnish.

Copper Azole is an antifungal and will not cause aluminum to corrode; therefore wrapping Wolmanized® wood will not cause any harm. The sealant between the wood and aluminum is to stop any rubbing from taking place exposing the aluminum to the environment.

To address jbrooks9 question about a trolling motor bracket, us a minimum of 1/8 (0.125) aluminum plate, fabricate it in an L shape, weld it to the front & side rail of the boat.

Thanks for all the replies.  I am going to look for some aluminum to mount the motor.  What do you think about where to position the motor.  I can't see how mounting it to one side will make a big difference in how it performs.  Is it important to mount it dead center?  

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to look for some aluminum to mount the motor. What do you think about where to position the motor. I can't see how mounting it to one side will make a big difference in how it performs. Is it important to mount it dead center?

It will track better and manuever better the closer to center it is.  

Where you mount your trolling motor will have absolutely no effect on performance    

Where you mount your trolling motor will have absolutely no effect on performance

I thought you were being serious until I thought about it for awhile.   ;D

pain...I may steal the slinky comment in your signature...that has got to be the funniest thing I have seen in a long time!

Glad I could give you a laugh...