Fish the Mitt Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 So I have decided to try my hand at making my own rods - I mean, why not, it's winter here and I'm jonesin'. So I ended up picking up a Mud Hole turnkey set for an MHX MB843 (7' - MH/F). I decided to go this route for my first rod so I could get my hands wet for relatively cheap, and use an all-purpose rod that wouldn't be too detrimental if something were to happen to it (since I already have another). After awhile, I've been eyeing up the Phenix and Rainshadow blanks... Anyways, here is where I stand at the moment. Not difficult at all so far - but I imagine the guides and such are the more difficult part for a beginner. To the question - while I was pushing the butt piece on, I pushed and turned too hard apparently and pushed the blank right through the butt.... Any remedies for this? I will probably just grab a new butt piece, but figured I'd see if there were any neat ideas on here first! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratherbfishin1 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I have no answer to your question but I've been interested in making my own rods too. You mind if i ask how much the start up cost was for you? Not the materials for the rod but all the tools you need to make it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish the Mitt Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 1 hour ago, ratherbfishin1 said: I have no answer to your question but I've been interested in making my own rods too. You mind if i ask how much the start up cost was for you? Not the materials for the rod but all the tools you need to make it. This turnkey kit was $180+tax (minus 10% for giving my email to Mud Hole). Total was $170. This included the rod kit (blank, grips, reel seat, guides, etc..) and everything needed to build it (CRB hand wrapper, dryer, stands, threads, epoxies, tape, razors, brushes, guide book, etc..). The only thing I've needed that wasn't in the kit was rubbing alcohol - everytjing else is there. I wanted to start basic and this includes everything I need plus some. As a reference, the rod kit alone is $113 I believe. I know it's over $100. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kelly Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 If the butt piece isn't glued on yet, and you have the pieces the epoxy will glue the duplon back together. A little light sand once it's dry and you probably won't be able to see the join. If it doesn't work, just cut the duplon off and order another butt piece. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User MickD Posted February 22, 2018 Super User Share Posted February 22, 2018 I believe the post above has it right. If you get to the point of needing something more than patching it, and getting a new butt knob is inconvenient (as in ordering only one part and paying $7 for shipping) go to anl O'REilly's auto parts store and go to their display of interior trim fasteners/parts and find the container with the 5/8 inch diameter rubber "bumper" pieces, and buy it, glue one into the hole to provide a black rubber bumper on the butt of the rod. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User MickD Posted February 23, 2018 Super User Share Posted February 23, 2018 I should have added that rubber parts have a mold release on them to help get them out of the mold that forms them. It may interfere with the effectiveness of epoxy. What I do is to "wash" them with alcohol, vigorous rubdown with a wet with alcohol paper towel, then sand the barb and internal surfaces with 150 grit sandpaper. I don't know that it is necessary, but I've done it many times with no failures. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoonplugger1 Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 I think you can still get blank EVA rings out there, (no hole), glue it on and shape it to match. Fixed for under a buck, and your rod will only be a half inch longer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish the Mitt Posted February 24, 2018 Author Share Posted February 24, 2018 Awesome! Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abby Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 I just got that same kit, it will be my first build also. I bought the tool kit last year to start centerpin rods but have yet to build one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish the Mitt Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 19 hours ago, Abby said: I just got that same kit, it will be my first build also. I bought the tool kit last year to start centerpin rods but have yet to build one. MIX THE PROKOTE PROPERLY! I say that because apparently I didn't mix it well enough and mine won't cure. I have to remove it and start over with the thread finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abby Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Uggghhh. Guess that is all part of the learning curve. That is why I decided to do this kit like you. Kind of an experiment..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kelly Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 11 hours ago, Fish the Mitt said: MIX THE PROKOTE PROPERLY! I say that because apparently I didn't mix it well enough and mine won't cure. I have to remove it and start over with the thread finish. I would try mixing another batch of prokote and putting a thin second coat on the guides. The epoxy might well set the unset stuff underneath, or at least give you a useable rod. Assuming you just have a slightly tacky epoxy coating at the moment. If it doesn't work, you're no worse off, just a bit of epoxy down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish the Mitt Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 8 hours ago, Tim Kelly said: I would try mixing another batch of prokote and putting a thin second coat on the guides. The epoxy might well set the unset stuff underneath, or at least give you a useable rod. Assuming you just have a slightly tacky epoxy coating at the moment. If it doesn't work, you're no worse off, just a bit of epoxy down. That's what I had originally planned to do but after reading a few posts online, it wasn't recommended. I haven't fully decided what I'm going to do as I had to order more Pro Kote anyways so either option is sidelined until I receive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abby Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 M-hole just posted deals on epoxy kits.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish the Mitt Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 35 minutes ago, Abby said: M-hole just posted deals on epoxy kits.... Of course they did, I bought mine lastnight..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User MickD Posted March 7, 2018 Super User Share Posted March 7, 2018 there is almost no chance that your Pro Coat is bad. 99% of failure to cure problems with epoxy are caused by insufficient mixing. Mix it for a solid two minutes, scraping it all together many times, then dip your brush into the center of it, not the edge. Pro Coat takes a long time to get truly hard, so check it again before doing anything. It is likely that you can simply put a new coat on over the first one and have a good build. Better to try it and find out it won't work than to simply assume it won't work. You end up in the same place if it fails, but if successful you've avoided rewrapping the guides. If you are working in an especially cool area, that can also affect curing of epoxy, but not likely. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish the Mitt Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 54 minutes ago, MickD said: there is almost no chance that your Pro Coat is bad. 99% of failure to cure problems with epoxy are caused by insufficient mixing. Mix it for a solid two minutes, scraping it all together many times, then dip your brush into the center of it, not the edge. Pro Coat takes a long time to get truly hard, so check it again before doing anything. It is likely that you can simply put a new coat on over the first one and have a good build. Better to try it and find out it won't work than to simply assume it won't work. You end up in the same place if it fails, but if successful you've avoided rewrapping the guides. If you are working in an especially cool area, that can also affect curing of epoxy, but not likely. I have some Pro Kote on the way. It is significantly less tacky then it was when I had posted this. I still don't see it curing 100% (even with a lot more time) so I will likely try another coat of Pro Kote and ensure I properly mix the two this time. I knew it was bad mixing because I had some left over in the little plastic cup they give you. Upon looking at, and feeling around this cup, it was hardened in some spots, not in others. So I totally agree that it was my fault, no one else's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User MickD Posted March 7, 2018 Super User Share Posted March 7, 2018 Adding a new coat should fix it just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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