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Fuji concept spinning guide placement?

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So I know how to find where to put the guide based on the reel size/position and to evenly space the runners. My question is how do I determine where to put the 2 butt guides? Looking at using the high frame Fuji KR or Kigan guides on some spinning rods I am working on. There are video's for static placement for casting rods but I cannot find anything for spinning.

 

Allen

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You say high frame KR and concept, but the high frame guides are KLH.  Are you asking about KLH?  I believe everything you need to know is on the Fuji (http://anglersresource.net/) site.  Open the site and look at the catalog.  There is guide placement software there (Be sure to use the right software for the guides you plan to use-there are at least two sets of software there-if your results are really strange, you probably are using the wrong software) plus recommended KLH combinations based on the line you plan to use.

 

If you are using KLH on fresh water spin I would use the reduction group starting with the size 20.  It is more versatile than the 16.  If you use the 16 and want to go heavier on line, it won't work as well as the size 20 group.  If you use the 20 group it will work with lighter lines just fine.  The difference in weight, especially since the reduction guides are not near the tip, will have no significant difference in sensitivity.  I have settled on size 5 runners for spin, 5 1/2 for cast.

You're right, the KLH guides are called "KR Concept."  

 

They are all I use now.  One thing to keep in mind is that they are tall-that's part of their advantage.  But they might not fit into some rod tubes.  

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The software you want is "KR GPS" shown prominently in the column of items on the left side.  I suggest you open all the videos on the guides that are available there.

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Thanks for the references.

 

Allen

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Don't over think it, use the specs as noted above and you'll be surprised by the results. You'll never buy another factory junk guide system rod.

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6 hours ago, spoonplugger1 said:

Don't over think it, use the specs as noted above and you'll be surprised by the results. You'll never buy another factory junk guide system rod.

I have a 6-6 ML Cabelas rod that I love but the main guide (think it is called the choke) is a size 30 and the next is a 20. This rod only has 4 or 6lb Floro so I don't need guides that I can run my boats tie off rope through.

 

Allen

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The KR GPS software will likely give you a 16 stripper, an 8M or 8 H reduction guide, and maybe five snall running guides. I have not run it for your example, but that is my guess based on previous rods built using KR guides. They work very well. Place the guides on the blank were the software suggests. Static load test to tweak placement of the running guides. Cast test to the tweak placement of the stripper and reduction guides.

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9 hours ago, .ghoti. said:

The KR GPS software will likely give you a 16 stripper, an 8M or 8 H reduction guide, and maybe five snall running guides. I have not run it for your example, but that is my guess based on previous rods built using KR guides. They work very well. Place the guides on the blank were the software suggests. Static load test to tweak placement of the running guides. Cast test to the tweak placement of the stripper and reduction guides.

I need to find a video for this or a rodbuilding mentor.

 

Allen

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The software is on the Anglers Resource web site.  http://anglersresource.net/

 

As stated before, I would do a 20 stripper KLH-H (first guide) and then it goes 10 KLH-H, then 5.5M .  these are called the reduction guides.  The next guide, your first runner, is called the choke guide.  I advocate using the 20 rather than the 16 because if you later decide to use heavier line, it will work better than the 16 setup with negligible down side.

 

If you haven't gone to the Anglers Resource site, do it.  Read all about the KLH guides, watch the videos, run the software.

 

But software is not really needed.  Put the stripper (the 20) at about 20 inches from the tip of the reel shaft mid-point (it moves fore and aft, use the mid travel point), put the next two so you can look down through them and see a bulls-eye, then place the choker (first runner) to get the bulls-eye, then move it out just slightly.  Locate the rest of the runners based on your stress test, and you've most like got it.  Test cast, and move the three reduction guides in an inch as a unit, then out an inch as a unit, and go with what feels best.  

 

As mentioned before , don't over think it, but take advantage of the resources offered by Anglers Resource.

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