On 10/6/2020 at 12:43 PM, Way2slow said:

Take the tools to change coils, and if you still get that low rpm on 3, swap coil and wire from #1 with the one on #3 and see if it changes.  If it's low on #3, you might have a timer base or power pack problem.  To trouble shoot that you will need a good multimeter and a DVA.  DVA is a module that you connect to the multimeter and gives peak voltage readings from the outputs of the timer base and power pack that feeds the voltage to the coil.  Now, if you have a very good voltmeter that will read peak voltages, you don't need the DVA.  Just understand, the peak you see on most meters is just a function that stores the highest RMS reading, it is not Peak voltage of and RMS voltage.  For instance, an RMS voltage of 120VAC is 160 something Peak voltage.

We also might getting over you head in your trouble shooting or you are about to learn a hellavalot more than you ever wanted to.

The DVA is nothing but a diode, capacitor and resistor connected to a couple of leads to plug into the meter and a couple to take the readings with.  You can do a search and probably find a DYI diagram.

 

I have not made it to the lake yet.  Do I need to let the engine warm up any before performing the tests?  I've only got a simple greenlee mm right now so I'm pretty sure that's not going to work lol.  I've messed around with some electrical stuff before in the past, you are probably right in finding a DYI diagram for it. 

 

Thanks!

Was going to order some new reed valves so I took it apart this evening and found another zip tie wrapped around the bottom plates.  How do you know if the reed valves are bad, can see light through them?

 

ty,

 

kevin

Not sure what you are talking about with the zip tie.

As for how to check the reeds, technically, they are supposed to be laying flat against the valve block, "but" they are steel, and steel tends to develop memory from stress, so with age, the can have a very slight gap between the reed and the reed block. This gap is very slight and easily closed with even the slightest amount of back pressure.  Now, how much gap can you says is ok, can't tell you, that comes for experience of having messed with them for years. One of the things about carbon fiber or glass reeds, they are suppose to lay flat and closed, but over time, I've found they are worse than steel reeds about having a slight gap. Normally, the motors idles better at first, but over time, they don't.  They also can't withstand any lean spit.  This can break carbon fiber and glass reels very quickly.  It's very easy to damage them the first time it's started because they change the idle mixture settings and the motor lean spits if you did not compensate for the mixture changes.

Hey Keith,

 

When I first changed out the fuel lines I found the end of a zip tie about 2" long stuck in one of the smaller lines.  Well I found what appeared to be a zip tie that had been cut off at one point lodged between the reeds.  The reeds look like they are in good shape, but I am probably going to get a set to put up.  Do these look ok to you?

https://chriscarsonmarine.com/product/ccms-omc-johnson-evinrude-sport-reed-valves-50-75hp-3-cylinder-1968-1999-pn-133s/#wpcf7-f7-o1

 

I just put the muffles on to see if anything was spitting out while ago and there is nothing spitting at all now.  The rpm's are really close to each other now as well even though I only let it run for 5 minutes probably if that.  I am still puzzled as to how those small black zip ties made their way in a fuel line and in the reeds.

 

ty,

 

kevin

Well, if there was a zip tie stuck under one of the reeds, sounds like you found your problem.  Like I said in the first post after seeing it run, it looked like you had a problem reed or something on the intake side. 

Personally, I don't run glass reeds unless it's was a motor that was going to be turning over 6,800 rpms.  The factory steel reeds are good up to that point.  Plastic reeds are much more problem prone and too easily damage by lean spit, something carbureted motors are subject of, especially on a cold morning.  If the reeds lay flat enough that if you hold a flashlight on them and just barely see light between them and the block, they are usually good to go.  If there is a noticeable gap, then they might be questionable.  Also, you never want to flip one over thinking you will make it seal tight.  They usually break from the being flexed backwards from what they had been.  If I have any that are too far gone, I replace them with the OEM steel reeds.

The zip tie was probably caused by poor maintenance.  Someone cut it off or dropped in and the carbs sucked it in.  How they managed to get one in the fuel line is more puzzling to me.  It can't go through the carb and get in the fuel line.

I think I found the problem, not sure how I didn't see it before though.

Thanks for the info on the reeds, I'll know what to look for now   That one that managed to get in the small fuel line is beyond my imagination too.

 

What turned out to be a simple fix looked like, took me a lot longer than I imagined, however with you guiding me and a couple others I have really learned quite a lot in the process.  I'm glad it was nothing major and appreciate all the guidance! 

 

Kevin

29 minutes ago, kshays said:

I think I found the problem, not sure how I didn't see it before though.

Thanks for the info on the reeds, I'll know what to look for now   That one that managed to get in the small fuel line is beyond my imagination too.

 

What turned out to be a simple fix looked like, took me a lot longer than I imagined, however with you guiding me and a couple others I have really learned quite a lot in the process.  I'm glad it was nothing major and appreciate all the guidance! 

 

Kevin

Send him a check..Glad you found the problem.

I'm not sure what the problem was yet, lol.  Debris in the reeds?

Actually, if you had pulled the pulse valve as I suggested way back when I first said it was a reed or intake problem and applied a little pressure, you would have found it right off the bat, because of the amount of blow by you would have been getting through the carb.  That was my first suggestion before pulling the intake and if you could'nt do that, it was to pull the intake. 

17 hours ago, Guitarfish said:

I'm not sure what the problem was yet, lol.  Debris in the reeds?

Zip tie was lodged at the bottom reed just like the picture below.  Was unable to see without taking the reeds off.