Rocketvapor

A little update on my 10E and a new motor. I've posted pics of the transom reinforcement and the small forward deck previously. The "new" motor is a 5HP 4 stroke Mercury, about 16 pounds heavier than the 3.5HP. I really like the real reverse on the new motor. It came with a 7.8"X8" prop and got me and the wife up to 6.6mph but WOT was only 4520rpm, calculated 58.5% slip. Recommended max rpm is 4500 to 5500rpm. Bought a 7" pitch prop and wednesday got these numbers; (7.8X7 Solas Aluminum 3 blade) 7.2mph@5370rpm=55.9% slip (WOT) 7.0mph@5220rpm=55.9% slip 6.0mph@4565rpm=56.7% slip 4.0mph@3030rpm=56.6% slip. A 6" and 9" pitch prop are offered but looks like the 7" pitch is the best for the load we normally go with. Video with the 8" pitch, didn't take one with the Faster 7"

I like the ice chest mounts. Got a close up of the PVC? Looks good.

I was hoping for your video with a 4HP and a 55 TM on a Canoe.

Got a link to your youtube video?

All sealed up. and strip reinstalled. Added a little more bracing for the 'New' motor. Got one with a Real Reverse. Took the Bass Raider out for a run down the river this past Wednesday, total trip of about 15 miles. After a couple nights of rain and 3 hours flying on the water NO WATER in the pontoons. It's so easy to check and drain if necessary. Pull the little plugs, stick the tube in and blow. No gurgle, no water. Now I need to remount the stern light as the tiller sweeps the entire stern area.

It appears the mount blocks some of the Nav light. Probably not original.

To everyone with waterlogged foam in a Bass Raider: Are you sure it's water logged and not just water in the pontoons? Try to drain the pontoons just to be sure. Let it sit and drain again. If there is no water inside the pontoons, foam or no foam will not help it float higher or carry more weight (it would be a few pounds lighter without foam). The buoyancy is provided by water displaced by the hull exterior. Now, if water does get inside and fills up the pontoons, foam will keep it from sinking. Any air leak in the upper hull, like the electrical ports, and the entire boat hull could fill with water if there was damage below the water line that let water in. Knock a small hole or a cut in the lower shell and recovery could be difficult. Remove the foam and it will go to the bottom with a small leak below the water line. Just like the foam filled seats on a Jon boat. The foam only works if the space around it is filled with water.

Spit balling here, If you are handy, A 3/4" ply shelf, pop rivet to some tubing along the sides to hold in place and a pedestal. If the tubes are a little shorter than the factory ones (cut to about 22.5") you can rotate the frame 90 and set it on the bottom for a low position and a high position. I cut down the tubes on the wife's seat (front) for less wind resistance at speed and so I could see over her shoulders. Just lift and turn 90 degrees and it's in the rails again.

Decided to change motors. Getting one with a REAL reverse. Flipping the tiller requires me to be way in the back. To recap, the shelf is two layers of 3/4" ground contact ply, bolted to an angle bracket at the bottom of the transom plate with 3 through bolts through the ply and 3 through the transom. Aluminum stock is bolted to the inside of the upper shell with slotted capture nuts (loaded in shear, not tension). Raised the mount about an inch and added an aluminum angle to stop the mount from creeping upwards. Mount clamps are at the top of the original transom. Added two more diagonal braces. The wife and I usually run pretty loaded down and the prop gets lots of water even raised an inch or so. Little black arrows show the loading direction (in forward gear).

What is the clear inside diameter of your scupper? Hitch pin lock through a plate and the scupper and a piece of stainless bolted to the dock. Could be designed for minimal access.

Go slow and you'll get a fairly round hole. I used a 3/4 inch 'Spade' bit for the pontoon drain plugs.

Just about any size drain would work. 3/4" or 1". I used a hole saw and a battery drill. Note that there is about 3/4" gap between the upper and lower at the drain plug location. I cut a short length of PVC pipe, slotted it, curled it in to fit in the hole then expanded it so the plug would fit. Thin gasket top and bottom then tighten against the insert. Otherwise you will be pulling on the top and bottom. Posted this in another thread: Draining the pontoons. Carbon arrow shaft and CLEAR hose.

Still haven't put the seal strip back on. Installed a pair of drain plugs (from Academy) in the rear. Depending where I parked there was no DOWN in the front. Easier to tilt up on a block and drain from the rear. An old carbon arrow shaft straight down and a length of hose dang near gets it DRY in there. You can feel for a low spot and the clear hose prevents any 'Surprises'.

On my 10E the lower shell serial is at the rear, up near the seal strip on the right pontoon. The serial for the upper shell is under the seal strip at the same location.

The black strip on mine acts like a trough to collect water. Several days of rain and I end up with a few gallons of water in the pontoons. It's easy to route a CLEAR hose to a low spot and siphon it out. I thought about installing permanent tubes but my fix in work might work. I now have the strip off and in the process of sealing the joint between the upper and lower. The strip will go on and I will caulk the edge. Will still have to drain water, but less often (I hope). I would recommend NOT taking out the staples. The upper and lower halves have been stressed and might not go back together properly. I'll take a pic and post tomorrow.