5 hours ago, PhishLI said:

If you want the best advice, then tell the group which rod you're using.

Lew's KVD Series 7' Medium Heavy Fast All Purpose Reaction Casting Rod LKVDGC4

 

5 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Mention the baits you're currently throwing, meaning size and weight

The only thing I have thrown on it so far is 1/8 ounce worm. I was going to throw heavier lures when I got the basic setup done and got use to it. I plain on throwing 1/2 and 3/8 ounce jigs and 1 ounce swim bait.

 

5 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Clarify what you're calling the brake control. Are you referring to the numbered dial on the palm-side of the reel, or the spool tension knob on the handle-side?

The numbered dial on the palm-side of the reel.

 

https://imgur.com/a/XxKYhkO

 

5 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

What dial number are you set on for the brakes?

 

Getting out of 20# fluoro will be a big help.  Fluoro in general wants to spring off the spool, braid doesn't.

 

Are you getting overruns at the start or end of a cast?  If at the start, the up the brakes a little more.  if at the end, then use your thumb a little more (or add some spool tension).  

Do not know how to tell the number. I just turn it till it stop back lashing. Overruns at the start.

Go tie on a frog and turn the dial so that the brake drum (centrifugal brake race) inside the side plate moves outwards and towards the spool.  Move it all the way out.  You can do this with the side plate off and observe the movement of the drum.  All the way out means max braking.  From there you can cast a frog in your yard while backing off on the brake dial until you are happy with the results.  Also, when the internal centrifugal brakes are on they are free to flop about.  When they are off they are locked in place.  When on, centrifugal forces drive the brakes into the centrifugal race and create friction.  The race is shaped like a tapered drum.  Move the race towards the spool moves a larger diameter portion of the drum in contact with the brakes making more friction.  Moving it away does the opposite.

4 hours ago, Fishthunder said:

Do not know how to tell the number. I just turn it till it stop back lashing. Overruns at the start.

 

I’m referring to the numbered dial on the side plate.  That is the brakes.

 

the knob that is next to the drag start/handle is the spool tension.

 

With 4 brake blocks on and then the dial around a 4 or 5, you shouldn’t have any fluffing at the start of the cast.  You should be able to do that with more or less zero spool tension on the other knob. 

5 hours ago, Fishthunder said:

The only thing I have thrown on it so far is 1/8 ounce worm.

Expand on that. Do you mean a 1/8 oz bullet weight plus a worm? If so, which worm? A trick worm? A 3" Senko? A 5" Yum Dinger? Try to be specific so we can figure out what's happening.

5 hours ago, Fishthunder said:

Overruns at the start.

If you're getting an instant backlash, you're probably short-loading the rod on the backswing and releasing the bait too late. Don't whip it like a spinning rod.

 

@PhishLI- I totally missed his replies to you above.  I think we have the answers.  The rod is a hefty rod- rated 1/4-2 oz which in practice usually means 1/2 oz total bait weight to load it up as a start and really means it should be 3/4 oz TBW.  Then 65 lb braid which is hefty for bigger stuff, let alone anything light.  Then "1/8 ounce worm" which I'll interpret as 1/8 oz plus a decent worm- let's say a 5" senko since I know the weight of one (just under 3/8 oz).  That puts the TBW as just about 1/2 oz which might be manageable with lighter line and a smooth casting stroke, but it isn't going to be a distance combo.  So then you try to muscle it and that blows out the beginning of the cast since the rod isn't loading.

 

@Fishthunder- throw a 1/2 oz jig plus trailer on there and get back to us.  

 

 

36 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

Then "1/8 ounce worm" which I'll interpret as 1/8 oz plus a decent worm- let's say a 5" senko

Perhaps? Who knows? It's just strange how info needs to be dragged out of some people strand by strand. I'm officially bored with it.

22 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Expand on that. Do you mean a 1/8 oz bullet weight plus a worm? If so, which worm? A trick worm? A 3" Senko? A 5" Yum Dinger? Try to be specific so we can figure out what's happening.

If you're getting an instant backlash, you're probably short-loading the rod on the backswing and releasing the bait too late. Don't whip it like a spinning rod.

 

It could be a heavy long worm like a big ribbon tail.  I once fished a rage tail anaconda with a 1/4 oz bullet sinker.  The thing would flop end over end on the cast burning off all its energy and going very little distance while trying to blow up my spool of 14 pound sniper.  I switched to a heaver weight and the tumbling stopped and it behaved normally.  

I bought a 150M a couple weeks ago and the reel casts very well once you find the sweet spot.  I have 3 brakes on and the dial set at 4.  All I do then is adjust the tension knob based on the lure I am casting and I am running 14# Trilene XL mono.  This reel is definitely more adjustment sensitive than my older Chronarch, Curado and Citica E series reels.

22 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Expand on that. Do you mean a 1/8 oz bullet weight plus a worm? If so, which worm? A trick worm? A 3" Senko? A 5" Yum Dinger? Try to be specific so we can figure out what's happening.

If you're getting an instant backlash, you're probably short-loading the rod on the backswing and releasing the bait too late. Don't whip it like a spinning rod.

 

It is a 5" Senko.

 

9 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Perhaps? Who knows? It's just strange how info needs to be dragged out of some people strand by strand. I'm officially bored with it.

 

Sorry to have troubled you. I really didn't think I needed to get that detailed. Sorry.

 

4 hours ago, Flyfish-mt said:

I bought a 150M a couple weeks ago and the reel casts very well once you find the sweet spot.  I have 3 brakes on and the dial set at 4.  All I do then is adjust the tension knob based on the lure I am casting and I am running 14# Trilene XL mono.  This reel is definitely more adjustment sensitive than my older Chronarch, Curado and Citica E series reels.

 

I agree that  it is adjustment sensitive lol

10 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

@Fishthunder- throw a 1/2 oz jig plus trailer on there and get back to us.

 

I plan on throwing heavier lures soon.

 

I just want to say thank you to everyone that has replied and sorry if I didn't provide as much detail as you needed.

@Fishthunder- hang with it.  The shimano MGL system is pretty simple once you get the feel for it and as long as you’re getting a good loading on the rod.  Comparing the shimano SVS/MGL setup to the Daiwa SV Boost, the Shimano works best with a ‘steady’ rate of acceleration. The SV boost setup can respond quicker to sudden changes while the shimano system is a little slower.  It doesn’t make it better or worse, just different.  The 150/100 MGL reels will cast a mile.  Tonight I was throwing a plopper and a sexy dawg distances that most can’t judge accurately.  A plastic worm and modest weight isn’t too far behind.  With what you’re throwing, you’re only just barely loading the rod tip and not much more. I won’t presume to know your experience level or technique, but light for the rod lures and heavy braid require all the work and finesse your wrists and arms can put into them.  

 

I would definitely suggest that if you’re going to throw a lightly weighted 5” senko  on that setup that you swap to much lighter line.  If you want braid, go with 30 lb (i like 832).  The 65 lb braid is definitely holding you back with that.  Once you step up to 1 oz total bait weight it won’t matter as much (though if distance is your primary aim lighter will be better still).