I bought a Power Pole Micro and was told the wiring was "simple", only 2 wires. The problem is, my brain is also "simple" when it comes to anything electronic (I'm a mechanical guy). So I'm confused.

Here's what I'm doing. I have a switch panel that's "always on" regardless of Main Key power. That is to say my Mooring lights, Nav Lights, Courtesy Lights, Bilge and Radio (Aux 1) all work when the key is off as long as the corresponding button is pushed. I have a spare button (Aux 2) with nothing on it (as far as I can tell) and I want to use that for my PowerPole.

Inside my console, there's a fuse block and the corresponding button wires go into the fuse block. The Aux2 is bottom right (unlabeled) and there's currently a 7.5A fuse residing there.

Is this just a simple matter of taking my 10a fuse and putting it into the fuse block where the 7.5 fuse is and screwing the RED wire from the PowerPole into the Aux2 location?

Does the black wire go direct to battery or can it go onto the black wires at the top of the fuse block?

I'm sorry if this question is silly...but yes, I am really that clueless when it comes you wiring.

If that Aux 2 position is already a switched positive feed, then yes, the red lead normally goes to that fused positive side, but the black lead should go to a true negative buss or straight to battery negative, not another fuse location. One thing I'd verify before buttoning it up is that the wire size and fuse value actually match what the Micro wants, because the fuse is there to protect the wire and circuit, not just the accessory. I would also leave the final battery connection for last so you are not sorting wires on a live circuit.

You’re close but not quite there. That wire coming out of your fuse block for Aux 2 is the hot 12v + going to the hot side of your aux2 switch. If you connect the wire for your power pole to that terminal on your fuse block it will get 12v + power, but won’t be using that switch at all. Basically you’d be wiring it to be always in as long as the power feed to your fuse blocked is connected to your battery. If you want to use that switch to control power to your power pole the red 12v + wire for your power pole has to be connected to the switched output side of your aux2 switch. Likely right now nothing is connected to it if it is not in use.

Now as far as swapping the fuse to 10amp you can, but only IF you’ve confirmed the wiring from the fuse block to the switch and the switch itself can handle a 10 amp load. If the wire or switch can’t handle a 10 amp load you’ll melt them before your fuse blows. Over a short distance even 18 awg wire can handle a 10amp load so as long as the panel is only a foot or two from the switch you’re ok.

As far as the ground wire, yes if you’re going to power it through that aux2 switch you can connect your black ground wire to the ground bar of the fuse block.

Hope that helps getting you in the right direction.

3 hours ago, kschultz76 said:

You’re close but not quite there. That wire coming out of your fuse block for Aux 2 is the hot 12v + going to the hot side of your aux2 switch. If you connect the wire for your power pole to that terminal on your fuse block it will get 12v + power, but won’t be using that switch at all. Basically you’d be wiring it to be always in as long as the power feed to your fuse blocked is connected to your battery. If you want to use that switch to control power to your power pole the red 12v + wire for your power pole has to be connected to the switched output side of your aux2 switch. Likely right now nothing is connected to it if it is not in use.

Now as far as swapping the fuse to 10amp you can, but only IF you’ve confirmed the wiring from the fuse block to the switch and the switch itself can handle a 10 amp load. If the wire or switch can’t handle a 10 amp load you’ll melt them before your fuse blows. Over a short distance even 18 awg wire can handle a 10amp load so as long as the panel is only a foot or two from the switch you’re ok.

As far as the ground wire, yes if you’re going to power it through that aux2 switch you can connect your black ground wire to the ground bar of the fuse block.

Hope that helps getting you in the right direction.

Yes, apparently I have to tap into the wire going to the switch. In this case, it's a yellow wire....which confused me (I thought colors meant something). I have done that...and it works. You can see my diagram below.

However, I'm not sure what the switch can handle as its the factory switch set. How do I find that out?

With that wire tapped is the switch killing power to the power pole when powered off? Yellow is sometimes used for a switched 12v+ but you really can’t go by colors, you either need a wiring diagram or be able to trace your wires.

That’s a fancy switch that has a separate +12v for the backlighting as well as a separate ground for the backlighting. Is the wire you connected to coming off the center pin on the back of the switch labeled “NO” which means normally open?

This image shows wiring diagram and pin location for a similar Blue Seas switch. This Blue Seas switch and many similar are rated for 10amps. If you can get to the back of the switch it should have label or markings to show its rating. Maybe even a brand and part number.

2 minutes ago, kschultz76 said:

With that wire tapped is the switch killing power to the power pole when powered off?

5 minutes ago, kschultz76 said:

With that wire tapped is the switch killing power to the power pole when powered off? Yellow is sometimes used for a switched 12v+ but you really can’t go by colors, you either need a wiring diagram or be able to trace your wires.

That’s a fancy switch that has a separate +12v for the backlighting as well as a separate ground for the backlighting. Is the wire you connected to coming off the center pin on the back of the switch labeled “NO” which means normally open?

This image shows wiring diagram and pin location for a similar Blue Seas switch. This Blue Seas switch and many similar are rated for 10amps. If you can get to the back of the switch it should have label or markings to show its rating. Maybe even a brand and part number.

Yes, the switch works as expected. When pushed in and illuminated, the Power Pole works. When off and unlit, Power Pole does not work. So I think it's wired correctly?

This is the switch here. Sadly, no specs. https://shop.highfieldnorthamerica.com/products/electric-switch?variant=45431888052390

Just now, RRocket said:

Yes, the switch works as expected. When pushed in and illuminated, the Power Pole works. When off and unlit, Power Pole does not work.

This is the switch here. Sadly, no specs. https://shop.highfieldnorthamerica.com/products/electric-switch?variant=45431888052390

Ok then you got the right wire at least!

Just now, kschultz76 said:

Ok then you got the right wire at least!

Small victories! LOL 😆

To be sure take those few screws out of the front of that panel and look at the back of the switch. I’m willing to bet it’s actually a Blue Seas or other marine oem manufacturer switch.

1 minute ago, kschultz76 said:

To be sure take those few screws out of the front of that panel and look at the back of the switch. I’m willing to bet it’s actually a Blue Seas or other marine oem manufacturer switch.

There isn't enough play in the wires. I'd have to cut all the zips to get enough slack. 😥

Just wondering why you don't hook it direct to the battery. Red to hot, black to ground with an inline fuse in between the red. you could hook it to the trolling motor battery or to your main boat battery.

2 hours ago, tander said:

Just wondering why you don't hook it direct to the battery. Red to hot, black to ground with an inline fuse in between the red. you could hook it to the trolling motor battery or to your main boat battery.

Because it's always drawing power even when not in use..would flatten the battery given enough time.