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Baitcasters And Braid

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Is it possible to use braid with baitcasters and not have much trouble? I have heard the line binds up on the spool and that backlashes are hard to avoid with braid.

Any tips for using braid with casters? Do I put on some mono backing like I do on spinning reels?

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Just use a diameter braid that you're used to.  50# Power Pro is similar in diameter to 12# mono.  Treat it with KVD Line & Lure.  Be sure to use a mono backer, or the line will slip on the spool.

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I would definitely use mono backing for braid since it's pretty expensive(the braid, that is). I don't use braid for your aforementioned reasons....it binds up sometimes. Personally, I don't use it for that reason as well as the visibility issues in the waters I fish.

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My first baitcaster was spooled with braid and i have yet to fish with a baitcast that wasn't braid. I put the mono backing on it and treat it with KVD line and lure and it works great. Also gives me more confidence since i know a fish will not break my line, unless i tie a bad knot and then its my fault.

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Is it possible to use braid with baitcasters and not have much trouble? I have heard the line binds up on the spool and that backlashes are hard to avoid with braid.

Any tips for using braid with casters? Do I put on some mono backing like I do on spinning reels?

That is what I call "line dig". There are things you can do to avoid or minimize it, but it should not be a show stopper. The thinner the braid, the greater chance this line dig can occur.  20# braid and under is going to be a bit more susceptible for the angler with little experience.

Get 40# or higher to minimize it. I use 30# and don't have issues with line dig anymore because I have learned to practically eliminate it.

This line dig will occur when you have:

A very thin diameter braid like 20# and you encounter a snag in which you attempt to free the snag using your rod and reel. When you do this, the force you exert with the rod and reel will make the braid to "dig" into itself. Of course, you will not notice this until you make your next cast.  You make your cast and your lure practically stops mid air and slows when the line that has dug in has reached the top of the spool. This is more prevalent with lighter weighted baits. Heavier baits can sometimes help the braid to break free.

It can also occur when you strip line off of the spool when the drag is set very tight.

Solutions:

1) When freeing a snag, take the rod and reel out of the equation. Pull off enough line to work with so that you don't involve the rod and reel. Be careful when handling braid with bare hands. When taut it can slice you skin like a knife.

2) If you have to pull line off after your cast, do so with either a lighter drag setting, or better yet keep the reel in free spool mode until you paled out the line desired. If you get a bait, your thumb will already be there to serve as the make shift drag to set the hook.

3) Until you get more experience, don't use anything braid less than 30#.

Other than that, there shouldn't be anything else that should stop you from at least trying braid. It has its advantages.

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i tie my braid through the holes in my spool to avoid slipping.

line digging into the spool can be a problem...a lot depends on the reel and the line itself. the better braided lines, like sufix and power pro, are rounder and less likely to dig into itself. the other line factor is diameter...thinner lines (e.g., 20 pound test and under) are more likely to bind than 30+ lb. test line.

the reel also plays a part. reels that lay the line down in broader angles onto the spool will bind less than. i've noticed far less binding with wider spool reels than those with narrower spools. i have some reels that i won't use braid on again because of line digging.

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I love braid for jerkbaits, you just get a better action. I have always used braid with spinning reels, and generally I used 15 pound power pro (which is 4 pound diameter) so I could get extra depth on my jerkbaits. I just found it tiring to twitch and throw jerkbaits all day on spinning gear, was hard on my wrists.

So then I probably should forget using the 15 pound braid then with a casting reel?

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I love braid for all of my bait casters.  I am using Power Pro 50lbs and am using the included Power Pro tape that is included with the line.

Later, :)

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You stick it to the spool before you fill it.  By doing this, you can simply use an arbor knot, and the tape gives the braid something to "bite" into, preventing spooled up line spinning on the spool arbor.

Personally, I go through a lot of line, but I prefer the spool to be full for consistent retrieve speeds.  I pretty much fill the majority of the spool with copolymer line, like CXX, and then spool about 75 yards of braid on top.

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So then I probably should forget using the 15 pound braid then with a casting reel?

didn't mean to imply that at all. i use 15# braid in my daiwa fuegos and shimanos just fine. on some of my other reels though, it was extremely frustrating to watch brand new lures you just tied on go flying away after they snap the line because the line got wedged in itself. you may just have to do some experimenting and see if it works for you. and, like i said, the quality of the braid is a big factor here.

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I've posted this before on other threads, here it is again.

Use braids based on the DIAMETER not the pound test and you won't have any problems.

If you would not use 4# test mono, then don't use a braid that has a mono equivilent diameter of 4# .

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Use braids based on the DIAMETER not the pound test and you won't have any problems. If you would not use 4# test mono, then don't use a braid that has a mono equivalent diameter of 4# .

excellent advice

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Thanks guys. I use power pro braid and it really performs well for jerkbaits and crankbaits. I don't use it for much else.

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If you get a chance to talk to guys who repair reels, many will tell you that braid causes them alot of business.  Putting 40lb.+ on a bass reel designed for 12 or 17lb mono.  Some guys dont treat the reel any different.  I choose braid by its test rating and use 15 and 20lb.  No stretch so my casts into the trees are easier to finesse out.  Cuts through submerged vegetation.  Relatively low visability.  Not likely to damage a reels guts.  Digging into the spool for me has only been caused by my pulling against a snag with the rod/reel.  Caution on the next cast and a slight pull to clear it at the end of the cast fixes it.

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the new fireline braid handles better than any thing else out there.i agree with wayne.i use 65 and 80 pound test which are 14 and 15 mono equivalent.

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the new fireline braid handles better than any thing else out there.

Are you referring to Fireline Tracer ?

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the new fireline braid handles better than any thing else out there.

Are you referring to Fireline Tracer ?

berkley came out with a new fireline with radial construction versus thermally fused for the "old" fireline. unfortunately, berkley liked the 'fireline' name so much, they kept it for the new stuff too...talk about confusing  ::) at least the new packaging for the "old" fireline now calls it "fireline classic" or "fireline original" or something along those lines.

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imo i feel that braid is much easier to deal with than mono and extremely easier to deal with than fluoro.  It doesn't jump off the spool like mono/fluoro can if you happen to to put enough pressure when casting.  Also picking out braid, to me, is alot easier when you do backlash, just gently pick at the loops and it'll eventually work its way out, you don't have to worry about line kinks also.

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Unless your rod is limp as a noodle I think (just my opinion) using braid with any treble hook lure is a recipe for losing fish. You really need the cushion of mono and a slow rod tip to properly fight a fish without ripping the hooks out of their mouth.

Another thing that hasnt been mentioned about braid is that it has a tendency to "saw" through line guides, especially your lower quality line guides. Make sure you check your guides regularly for digs and cuts that can nick and cut mono/flouro line. (If you switch to mono/flouro on that rod for some reason)

I am a firm believer in Power Pro braided line for certain applications. You just have to make sure you take precautions when using it.

B

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Unless your rod is limp as a noodle I think (just my opinion) using braid with any treble hook lure is a recipe for losing fish. You really need the cushion of mono and a slow rod tip to properly fight a fish without ripping the hooks out of their mouth.

Another thing that hasnt been mentioned about braid is that it has a tendency to "saw" through line guides, especially your lower quality line guides. Make sure you check your guides regularly for digs and cuts that can nick and cut mono/flouro line. (If you switch to mono/flouro on that rod for some reason)

I am a firm believer in Power Pro braided line for certain applications. You just have to make sure you take precautions when using it.

B

Very good point on braid and trebles. I learned a hard lesson, but with the proper adjustment, braid can be used with treble baits.  My method is simple.  Use sharp hooks to begin with and simply let the fish set the hook on themselves. Since that first loss, I have never ever, ever, ever lost a fish with braid and trebles. You practically don't set the hook. Just crank up the line to get it taut and the fish does the rest. Almost like a drop shot hook set.

As for guides, any modern rod with aluminum oxide guides is braid worthy.  :)

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