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RichF

New crankin rod help

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I was wondering if anyone could tell me more about powell crankin rods. Where are they made? Glass vs graphite crank sticks? Thanks for the help guys.

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i like graphite sticks better, glass sticks i have heard are only used because they are less sensitive so you feel the strike later which means you are less likly to rip the crnak out of the fishes mouth.  i just wait with graphite then pull.

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btw glass rods are so heavy compared to graphite.

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btw glass rods are so heavy compared to graphite.

Yeah and Im not sure if I like the huge diameter of the rod blank. I've been using a light graphite rod for my crankin. It works ok but I feel like there is just not enough give with graphite and I tend to lose nearly 1 in 4 fish (especially smallies). Havent actually used a graphite rod specifially designed for crank fishing tho.

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I've done well with the BPS Crankin' sticks which I believe are a composite, primarily a graphite blank with a fiberglass tip. They usually run app. 70$, but sometimes they are on sale for app. 50$. This stick is in my opinion one of the best deals in fishing.

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glass or composite for crankin, I have owned and used a Shimano Cumara Med Reaction for shallow and med depth cranks, it was a very nice rod for $200 and Im told the MH Reaction Cumara is good for deep cranks. Now I use Daiwa Steez FleXlite ML, M & MH Reaction rods for cranks, they are an excellent lightweight graphite/composite rod but not cheap.

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I use the Powell glass rods and really like them. I have the 702M paired with a Daiwa Fuego for small cranks and topwater, a 703MH paired with a Revo SX, using it for lipless cranks, square billed cranks, topwater and spinnerbaits, and a 754H with a Revo Winch with 10lb. that I use for medium and deep diving cranks and making long casts to get the baits down deep.

Of the three, the 703 is the most versatile. It handles different applications really well and casts small and large baits well.

They are made out of s-glass which is much lighter than regular e-glass. While not as light as a graphite rod, they aren't that heavy. I easily cast it all day. They have a mod-fast taper. To me they have just the right amount of give to make long casts and keep fish hooked.

They are made in china, but use quality components, Fuji Alconite guides and Fuji seats, and every one I own is built on the spline of the blank.

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I use the Powell glass rods and really like them. I have the 702M paired with a Daiwa Fuego for small cranks and topwater, a 703MH paired with a Revo SX, using it for lipless cranks, square billed cranks, topwater and spinnerbaits, and a 754H with a Revo Winch with 10lb. that I use for medium and deep diving cranks and making long casts to get the baits down deep.

Of the three, the 703 is the most versatile. It handles different applications really well and casts small and large baits well.

They are made out of s-glass which is much lighter than regular e-glass. While not as light as a graphite rod, they aren't that heavy. I easily cast it all day. They have a mod-fast taper. To me they have just the right amount of give to make long casts and keep fish hooked.

They are made in china, but use quality components, Fuji Alconite guides and Fuji seats, and every one I own is built on the spline of the blank.

Awesome info! Thanks for the input!

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I have a couple Powell rods and they are awesome.  I have not used their crankbait rod. For crnkin I use a Daiwa Tough & Light crankbait rod, this is glass composite.  The glass rods are a little heavier.  But my strke to land ratio is much better so I do not mind dealing with a little extra weight.

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