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shootermcbob

crankbait fishing

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I saw on a tv program where Edwin Evers was crankbait fishing. He said when he is fishing around alot of brush piles he reels until he hits a limb, stops reeling for a second, and then continues to reel. I thought the idea was to crash the plug off the cover so it would deflect erratically to trigger strikes??? I understand about maybe easing the plug over the cover so it doesn't get hung up, but doesn't that defeat the purpose??? Thanks again for all your input.

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While you're right about wanting the crankbait to bang into the cover and deflect off it, I think that is still what he was doing. Often times I like to real my crank into the limb or stump or whatever and as soon as I feel it hit the cover I stop and let it "float" itself up off of the cover. This little pause often entices some pretty vicious strikes.

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well you cannot do this in tourneys but....

you will load the boat with crankbaits large enough to tick the bottom of whatever depth your fishing by just putting your boat in gear throwing one cracnkbait to right one to left by your partner and trolling over productive areas ....

its like one very very long cast heh ;D

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While you're right about wanting the crankbait to bang into the cover and deflect off it, I think that is still what he was doing. Often times I like to real my crank into the limb or stump or whatever and as soon as I feel it hit the cover I stop and let it "float" itself up off of the cover. This little pause often entices some pretty vicious strikes.

Ditto on this one. It seems like this "knock-out" technique triggers more strikes. I personally have had some jam up good days where (when reeling through heavy brush) have brought the lip up to the cover then as what was previously said pause and let the bait rise keeping a "half-slack" line...Then BAM! it feels like a truck plows into it. It's almost second natured now when fishing around thick brush to use this technique.

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I agree. That is my primary method for cranking heavy cover. I primarily "crash" my baits through sparse cover and stump fields. I like to "finesse" my cranks through trees and laydowns though. Both methods are productive and all should learn them both.

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Yeah, you can thread a crankbait through the thickest cover if you stop reeling when you hit something. In thick cover it's more like a slow speed crash. You're walking it through the brush.

Crashing a crankbait is effective also but more so on isolated limbs, standing trees, dock posts, etc....just reel it fast and smack it into whatever you can, that causes the big deflection that you're looking for.

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The pause after contact imitates a scared baitfish that has ran into something and injured itself.  For me  a very short pause works best so the fish doesn't get a good look at it.  Its  a reaction strike.  Most of the time the noise from the crash gets the fish looking.  A short pause gives it another splint second to find the source of the noise, but not study the bait.

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Don't make the mistake of dismissing one method over the other. These are two different techniques. "Crashing" is more of a power, fast reaction method and the "stopping on contact" method is more of a finesse tactic. There are times when crashing is more effective than stopping on contact.

This also applies with vegetation and rocks. I have had times in vegetation that I could not get a bite by ripping it out, but I was very effective stopping it on contact and letting it back out of the vegetation. Same with rocks, especially riprap. I have had amazing times letting it rip hard through the rocks and I have had good times stopping it on contact.

Put both methods in your repertoire bag!

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i have tried fishing cranks in and near heavy cover but everytime i am getting hung up on something i have to take the boat there and get it out ruining the spot.. how do i help keep myself from getting hung up?  granted i was using deep cranking rods to get down to ground level (4-8ft depth).. should i use more bouyant cranks?

i also like using deep cranks in shallow water, the lip digs in the ground causing a stir. you can really feel the bottom. i have caught some nice fish doing this.

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i have tried fishing cranks in and near heavy cover but everytime i am getting hung up on something i have to take the boat there and get it out ruining the spot.. how do i help keep myself from getting hung up? granted i was using deep cranking rods to get down to ground level (4-8ft depth).. should i use more bouyant cranks?

i also like using deep cranks in shallow water, the lip digs in the ground causing a stir. you can really feel the bottom. i have caught some nice fish doing this.

Yeah, get a crankbait that is specifically designed for shallow cranking.  My favorite is the Lucky Craft RC 1.5.  If you do not feel comfortable spending this much money pick up a Mann's C-4 elite.  

Its also important to not move too fast if you are cranking the real heavy stuff.  Keep your rod tip up and navigate your crank over and around the obstructions.

I like to really abuse my crankbaits on thinner laydowns and on logs.    

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gotcha thanks tom..i just bought quite a few shallow cranks (balsa wood) from cabellas. they are large and very bouyant. 8 dollar cranks for 2.88, hard to beat.

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Getting hung up is just part of it.  Learn the bow and arrow technique for loosening snags and you'll find yourself getting more of them back.  On Tom Redington's site he has a good video on techniques for getting snagged baits back.

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For that video his 3rd idea was the use the rod to free the bait. Is dropping your reel into the water a good idea? I done it once by accident and it messed up my reel.

I believe water might have gotten into the gears and it started to grind a lot making this weird noise.

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its not ideal but if a 5-40 dollar bait is worth it to you then go for it.. all you need to do with the reel is the take it apart and dry it complete, re-grease and go back to work.. besides dont most of us have atleast 5-6 rods on deck at all times? ;D

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I can't honestly answer the question, but the guide I go with does it constantly when the bait is to far to reel down to. He or I haven't had any problems with reels. I get my reels serviced every year though.

Also I've never sent or seen a reel sent down after the bait that didn't free the lure. So lets say I send a Revo SX down after a lure 50 times(very realistic #) after a cheapo 3 dollar crank before the reel gives out. I've saved 150.00 in lures and that will buy a Revo SX all day. Obvioulsy, if your saving Lucky Crafts or Sebiles the techniques is going to pay for itself quickly.

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I've almost become a master at the bow and arrow technique haha. Another thing you can often do sometimes is as soon as you feel the bait hit the structure, point your rod out towards the snag. This will give the bait slack line and it will often float it's way out. More often then not, it's just the bill that gets hung, there are times though that the hooks dig in and when this happens reeling down to it will get it. I have also had no problem dunking my reels.

Retriever poles and lure retrievers can eliminate the need for risking your reel or your tip guide.

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Seems like every time I get ready throw a crankbait at heavy cover, a flipping stick with a jig just magicaly appears in my hand. I think its a sickness but I dont think Ill bother getting it checked out  8-)

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