My 12 year old Sylvan Explorer's Bilge pump has been working fine. My only issue is that it's not automatic and I need that function as I now have an opportunity to leave my boat on my dock at my camp site. I just looked at my old bilge pump, and it's screwed to the inside of my hull, but not directly to the hull. It's screwed to a piece of metal in the hull. I don't see me getting into that spot with a cordless to put a new bilge pump on. So, I was thinking that there must be some sort of Aqua Glue for this purpose. If I could glue the base of my new bilge pump to the hull in the place of my old bilge pump, that would be the best. I was thinking maybe 5 minute epoxy? I have used this epoxy in the past for fly tieing reasons, and the stuff hardens up like a rock. But, is there a secific Aqua Glue that would hold the base of my new Bilge Pump to the hull in the wet and hot conditions that it will be exposed to? As always, thanks for taking a minute to check out this thread and I look forward to your responses. Tight lines!!!

Do you have any braces you can mount it to? I used a plastic zip tie, and secured it to a metal cross brace that goes from floor to transom.

Do you have any braces you can mount it to? I used a plastic zip tie, and secured it to a metal cross brace that goes from floor to transom.

Sounds like I have the exact same metal cross brace. Only issue I have is that this new "Rule-Mate 500 GPH Fully Automated Bilge Pump" onl,y comes with screw holes in the bottom of the mounting bracket. Hence, I don't want to screw through my hull and have to play with Marine sealant every year to address a possible leak. I can not mount this pump to that Cross brace, unless I use a piece of 2x2 angle. Hmmmmmm... Now you have me thinking.

If your old pump is working fine, why not just get a float switch?

http://www.bing.com/shopping/rule-35a-float-switch-for-bilge-pumps/p/DE4EAED28137B539ED3D?q=RULE+35A+FLOAT+SWITCH+FOR+BILGE+PUMPS&lpf=0&lpq=float%20switch%20rule&FORM=CMSMEE

If you're going with an automatic bilge pump, I'd recommend this switch. It contains the fuse, has a light to let you know when the pump is running, and can also be used manually. You have to hold the switch in place to manually operate the pump. It is spring loaded and returns to the off position when released.

This was a necessity in salt water, since the wires commonly corroded on the automatic side, no matter what you did. Soldered, crimp connected, heat shrink wrapped, nothing was absolute protection in that environment. If, no, when the float side inevitably failed the manual always worked. The only time the wire to the pump is live is when you toggle the switch to the on position. It's always live to the float switch.

http://www.bing.com/shopping/rule-deluxe-3-way-panel-lighted-switch/p/084657FB5EE3F0345006?q=Rule+Deluxe+3-Way+Panel+Lighted+Switch&lpf=0&lpq=rule%20switches&FORM=CMOPEG

Sounds like I have the exact same metal cross brace. Only issue I have is that this new "Rule-Mate 500 GPH Fully Automated Bilge Pump" onl,y comes with screw holes in the bottom of the mounting bracket. Hence, I don't want to screw through my hull and have to play with Marine sealant every year to address a possible leak. I can not mount this pump to that Cross brace, unless I use a piece of 2x2 angle. Hmmmmmm... Now you have me thinking.

Why would you need a 2X2 angle? The only thing I used was the zip tie. Once I wrapped it around the pump and tightened it down to the brace, it's not going anywhere.

Fasten the pump to a piece of stainless, bronze or brass and just set it in the bilge. Use stainless or brass screws and you can use the same [plate on the next pump!

Marine epoxy. Right next to the 5 min epoxy in homedepot or lowes. Same dual syringe style applicator.