Here is my question, is it better just to buy flourocarbon line and use it as a leader, or would I be better off buying leader material. I use Power Pro and have always tied it direct, but if I think I need a leader, I would simply tie on as a leader some Berkley Big Game Mono. I am slowly trying to dabble in flouro and need some sound advise.

Is there a differece between Flouro leader and flourocarbon?

Here is my question, is it better just to buy flourocarbon line and use it as a leader, or would I be better off buying leader material. I use Power Pro and have always tied it direct, but if I think I need a leader, I would simply tie on as a leader some Berkley Big Game Mono. I am slowly trying to dabble in flouro and need some sound advise.

Is there a differece between Flouro leader and flourocarbon?

Fluoro leader material is generally harder, stronger, and more abrasion resistant than standard filler spool fluorocarbon. It's also will cost more. You can get away using standard filler spool fluoro. Both will work just fine. If you're looking for leader specific applications though, there is no reason to not go with the leader specific material. When using a standard filler spool, generally people will fill up a reel with X amount of line, and then use the balance of the spool as leader line for another rod. Take your pick.

Fluoro leader material is generally harder, stronger, and more abrasion resistant than standard filler spool fluorocarbon. It's also will cost more. You can get away using standard filler spool fluoro. Both will work just fine. If you're looking for leader specific applications though, there is no reason to not go with the leader specific material. When using a standard filler spool, generally people will fill up a reel with X amount of line, and then use the balance of the spool as leader line for another rod. Take your pick.

Thanks, I've had excellent results with mono leaders, but I just want to experiment some. I purchased a spool of Seaguar Invsix, and was kinda disapointed with how it would break. I tied every knot possible and the line would always break when I sinched it down. I lubricated the line before tying, and did all the things I normally do when tying the mono leaders. Knots I used were: the Albrightknot, Uni-Uni knot, Seaguar knot, triple surgeon knot, and another one I learned last night that I can't recall the name. The line would break at the knot or just below the knot. I am I doing something wrong?

Thanks, I've had excellent results with mono leaders, but I just want to experiment some. I purchased a spool of Seaguar Invsix, and was kinda disapointed with how it would break. I tied every knot possible and the line would always break when I sinched it down. I lubricated the line before tying, and did all the things I normally do when tying the mono leaders. Knots I used were: the Albrightknot, Uni-Uni knot, Seaguar knot, triple surgeon knot, and another one I learned last night that I can't recall the name. The line would break at the knot or just below the knot. I am I doing something wrong?

The Albright "special" is the only knot I've been successful with that is small enough to meet my standards. Pay attention to how you wrap the line, when I was breaking them I was overlapping the wraps, a little focus on that area and now they no longer break when sinched. Start wrapping furthest away from the loop and work your way back. I use 12lb floro for my leader.

The Albright "special" is the only knot I've been successful with that is small enough to meet my standards. Pay attention to how you wrap the line, when I was breaking them I was overlapping the wraps, a little focus on that area and now they no longer break when sinched. Start wrapping furthest away from the loop and work your way back. I use 12lb floro for my leader.

Thanks man, I was doing the knot wrong!

I haven't had any problems with a blood knot and fluoro leader. I only wrap it 4 or 5 times instead of 7 though. Also, with the blood knot you can cut the tag ends flush with the knot.

SoFlaBass gave a pretty good answer. IMO Floro leaders are one of the biggest con games going, I use those leaders very sparingly now. The only time I use it is when I'm offshore fishing for Kingfish, but in reality I get no more bites than I do with Ande mono leaders. I always use leaders and for the majority of my fishing (freshwater & inshore) I just cut my leaders from Ande or Big Game mono. I only use specific leader material when I'm offshore. I only use loop, clinch, improved clinch double wrapped(braid only), I have no need for any other knots, tie them right and they hold.

SoFlaBass gave a pretty good answer. IMO Floro leaders are one of the biggest con games going, I use those leaders very sparingly now. The only time I use it is when I'm offshore fishing for Kingfish, but in reality I get no more bites than I do with Ande mono leaders. I always use leaders and for the majority of my fishing (freshwater & inshore) I just cut my leaders from Ande or Big Game mono. I only use specific leader material when I'm offshore. I only use loop, clinch, improved clinch double wrapped(braid only), I have no need for any other knots, tie them right and they hold.

You are right, like I said earlier, I've had nothing but great success with big game mono leaders.

I am starting to think that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Thanks man, I was doing the knot wrong!

No problem, wish I had realized I was tying it wrong before I lost a few cranks and worm rigs.

Glad to save someone else the trouble

If you are just worried about line visibility, then use whatever clear line you want, that's acceptably strong.

If you just want to sink the braid, then use reel fill fluoro.

If you are worried about serious abrasion issues, then you want to use actual fluoro leader material.