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Reel_Kaotic

First Baitcaster

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I'm new to using a baitcaster. I purchased one this past weekend, the BPS Carbonlite rod/reel. For the price and the reviews, I thought it was a good starter. I had it spooled with 12# BPS Gold Fluoro., which appeared to be good line. However, I couldn 't keep the thing from unwinding. Well, at times I could cast out with no problem (no real distance) and than others, birds nest. On the last cast, the line cut into itself, buried deep into the spool. My question is this, would a thicker diameter line work better on a baitcaster to resolve issues of tangling/bird nest?

I have four of the six pins engaged, the tension knob loose enough for the lure to fall without the spool spinning more then once, and the dial on the side set to 8.

Any suggests, tips, or advice would be appreciated.

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I'm not a fan of the Carbongold. I have 10# on my spinning rod. By far I think it gives me the most fit so far on my spinning gear. So far I tried Trilene flouro 10#( fits but not as bad)Suffix 10#( no problems I recall) and some 10# Seagar carbonpro I think it was called? It was in a yellow box and their cheapest flouro line I think at the time.I gave me hell for the first month but calmed down after that. The Carbongold just hates me. Every other cast it will either twist off or get all knot up and I have to cut the line.

I have the same combo with 12# BPS XPS flouro regular with no problems at all.

Have you tried KVD line conditioner? Maybe trry that or take spool off and do the hot water trick if that works on baitcasters or not? Some posted about that a couple of weeks ago. I'll see if can find the post.

#11 Bassthumb explains how to do the warm water.

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That's one reason I wanted to start using a BC, I like the properties of fluoro. and didn't want to use it on spinning tackle. Also I wanted to use a BC for pitching and flipping.

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My wife got me a baitcaster in april and some of what I learn is use at least a 1/2 to 5/8 lure or plug to start with (something easy to see as it flys through the air), set your tension to where the spool stops when the lure hits the ground then tighten the tension know about 1/8 to 1/4 turn more do not cast into the wind. Also keep your thumb on the spool very lightly feathering as it spools out and tighting down when it hits the water to slow / stop the spool keep your eye on the lure and feel the line you can feel when the spool is going faster than the line and that is when you feather to slow the spool down. I used a cheap 12lb test (h20 from acadamy if I remember right) starting because I knew I would be getting bird nests and may have to cut the line. My first few attempts were pathetic to say the least but as I got the feathering and stopping / slowing the spool down my distance and accuracy greatly improved I still get bird nests every so often usually when I am paying attention and I am able to use lighter lures and cast into the wind when I have to (Oklahoma is big on the wind).

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Katoic, sent PM. ;)

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@Sam: I got it...Thanks for the help. Send a response.

@Cattfish: Funny thing, I have to purchase more line already. The line cut into itself yesterday trying to correct a backlash. This time it'll be something a little cheaper to practice with. Next, I need to work on accuracy. Just about every cast end up far left, throwing side arm with the right!

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@Sam: I got it...Thanks for the help. Send a response.

@Cattfish: Funny thing, I have to purchase more line already. The line cut into itself yesterday trying to correct a backlash. This time it'll be something a little cheaper to practice with. Next, I need to work on accuracy. Just about every cast end up far left, throwing side arm with the right!

I would stick with next time Regular XPS flouro $15 for 12# if I'm not mistaken and you might just be better off with that line anyways. You will hate yourself if out fishing even practicing and something takes hold and you have your line snap with cheaper line like Vanish. That brand seems to have a very bad rep for standing by it's name. I never heard anything about Triple Fish or Viscous. If still is Gander Mountain at least the one Fredericksburg had the Seagar red label for $15 last week. Not sure of it's review. But do trust me it's not going to take you long at all to casting your Carbonlite.

Also by any chance are you taking your thumb off the spool while casting?

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To remove a backlash from a baitcaster, try pullling the line backwards, away from the rod tip and off the spool.

Helps remove the backlash easier than trying to pull the line through the line guide.

Also, when you are finished for the day, release all tension off the line and loosen the reel's drag as much as possible.

By doing this you will not damage the rod and you will allow the drag to be totally relaxed and not have any pressure on the pads.

Just some suggestions for you guys to consider. ;)

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Endless, if you have your baitcaster rig balanced correctly the spool will stop when the bait hits or just before it hits the water's surface.

Remember, when throwing buzzbaits you want to start your retrieve at the moment of or just before impact.

When you throw your cranks and spinnerbaits you want the spool to stop when the bait hits the water.

By balancing the baitcaster you can achieve this with practice.

You may also want to take one or two extra and ready to go baitcasters with you so if you get a backlash you can change out reels faster than trying to get a backlash out.

Just food for thought.

P.S. When getting a backlash or twisted line off a spinning reel, loosen the drag and keeping the bail closed pull the line off the reel. The tighten the drag and respool the line through your fingers feeling for knicks, cuts and abraisions and to get line back on reel snug, but not too tight.

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Endless, if you have your baitcaster rig balanced correctly the spool will stop when the bait hits or just before it hits the water's surface.

Remember, when throwing buzzbaits you want to start your retrieve at the moment of or just before impact.

When you throw your cranks and spinnerbaits you want the spool to stop when the bait hits the water.

By balancing the baitcaster you can achieve this with practice.

You may also want to take one or two extra and ready to go baitcasters with you so if you get a backlash you can change out reels faster than trying to get a backlash out.

Just food for thought.

P.S. When getting a backlash or twisted line off a spinning reel, loosen the drag and keeping the bail closed pull the line off the reel. The tighten the drag and respool the line through your fingers feeling for knicks, cuts and abraisions and to get line back on reel snug, but not too tight.

that is something I never thought of. Good ideal I just don't have any extras at the moment. Sure would have came in handy when my brother backlash both our cranking setups. I never thought i would get mine out. I need to respool anyways line been on for awhile now. I about do that with my spinning if I'm able too. My problem most of time with the Carbongold on my supreme is it would badly knot coming off a cast and I'm force to cut it.

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Good tips Sam... B)

OP, you are flipping with 12lb test..? Your much braver than I am.. :lol:

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Hammer, I do a lot more flipping and pitching with my spinning gear and 8 pound test.

Yes, I go with the 12 pound test on my baitcaster.

Boat is close to shoreline so I don't have a long way to cast the bait. :)

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I've got an idea that this is common when moving from spinning gear to baitcasting gear. It was for me. Release timing is a lot different. I haven't tried flouro yet, but I thought it was suppose to be more 'springy' than mono. You might want to try 12-17 lb. mono to learn on. I am using braid on a couple reels. It is suppose to be easier to remove backlashes with braid, but braid is much more expensive to learn on. Might be worth it tho if you aren't respooling nearly as often.

Afraid I can't offer much help otherwise other than to ask if you are using a lure near the high side for your rod.

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I would not start learning to use a baitcaster with fluro. Neaqrly everyone gets to cut off a few backlashes and why do this wqith an expensive line. Use some limp (easy to cast) mono until your learning curve flattens out a bit then go to the more expensive lines.

Set your rig according to the directions then as you become more skilled you can set the cast control knob lighter so you get more distance.

Good luck!

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@NBR and new2BC4bass: Thinking the same, going to purchase some mono line, until I get better at thumbing and casting with a baitcaster. Getting something in 15-17# range. For years I pitched and flipped using spinning reals using light mono, so using a baitcaster and fluoro at the same time has become a major challenge. I buy some mono for practice now, until I get better. I've been practicing casting with a 1/2 jig, since I don't have any casting plugs. The rod is 6'6 MH Carbonlite fast.

@Endless: I try feathering the spool with my thumb during casting. One of two things happen, either two much pressure and lure smacks the water directly in front of me or not enough pressure than backlash (and still no real distance)! Still haven't found that golden touch.

@Sam: When I correct a backlash, I pull the line thru reel's eye with the bell open. Should leave the bell closed and lighten the drag and pull the backlash out by pulling out line directly from the spool in the opposite direction?

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@NBR and new2BC4bass: Thinking the same, going to purchase some mono line, until I get better at thumbing and casting with a baitcaster. Getting something in 15-17# range. For years I pitched and flipped using spinning reals using light mono, so using a baitcaster and fluoro at the same time has become a major challenge. I buy some mono for practice now, until I get better. I've been practicing casting with a 1/2 jig, since I don't have any casting plugs. The rod is 6'6 MH Carbonlite fast.

Th

@Endless: I try feathering the spool with my thumb during casting. One of two things happen, either two much pressure and lure smacks the water directly in front of me or not enough pressure than backlash (and still no real distance)! Still haven't found that golden touch.

@Sam: When I correct a backlash, I pull the line thru reel's eye with the bell open. Should leave the bell closed and lighten the drag and pull the backlash out by pulling out line directly from the spool in the opposite direction?

Sam does this work??

The thumb trick on on fixing a backlash?? If so here is a video Kaotic!

Here's is the same trick but explained by Bill Dance http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&template=video.cfm&cat=Fishing&subCatID=23&connectionSpeed=broadband&videoID=897&startRow=0&videoType=prodcutdemo&option=2&cmid=OLPHVIDEO_897_HIGH Must click on link.

If all else fails then here is Bill Dance other advice

Sucks though your having this problem especially with DBS. Allot of people speak on how easier they are, Me I'm not sure if is or not. I have two DBS reels, PQ and Carbonlite but I don't seem to have any trouble with my Citori either which is a centrifugal but is Radial tuned breaking??

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Endless: Now that's funny :lol: ! Felt like taking Bill Dance advice the other day on the water. I've heard of the thumb trick before, couldn't remember it at the time, so I didn't try it. I'll be tossing out in the yard this evening for practice, either casting or taking backlash out.

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The thumb trick will work most of the time. Eventually though, you're going to get one that just won't clear doing it that way. Time to start picking it out by hand. If you're patient enough, you can clear just about any backlash. When you're learning how to use it though, a cheap nylon mono is definitely the way to go. When the bad one does happen, you won't be angry about having to cut away line.

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The thumb trick will work most of the time. Eventually though, you're going to get one that just won't clear doing it that way. Time to start picking it out by hand. If you're patient enough, you can clear just about any backlash. When you're learning how to use it though, a cheap nylon mono is definitely the way to go. When the bad one does happen, you won't be angry about having to cut away line.

I have success about 98% of time rotating the spool backwards with my thumb, while keeping tension on the line. The only times I couldn't clear a birdsnest was with braid. Just take your time, and don't get Frustrated.. :lol:

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Endless: Now that's funny :lol: ! Felt like taking Bill Dance advice the other day on the water. I've heard of the thumb trick before, couldn't remember it at the time, so I didn't try it. I'll be tossing out in the yard this evening for practice, either casting or taking backlash out.

I thought you would like that, lol.

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kaotic1,

Don't get frustrated and try not to over cast these. I just tought my 11 year old son to baitcast. Stick to cheap mono like NBR said. Keep your spool control on the tight side if needed. With much practice you be a pro in no time.

I tought myself, Long before internet and the advice given here is spot on. One last note is patience and smooth easy casts to start.

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One last note is patience and smooth easy casts to start.

This could well be some of the best advice you get. The smoother your cast, generally the lower the amount of braking force you need, giving you a longer cast. Unfortunately for me, there are still times when I get over excited and try to whip a cast out. Then I hear that lovely sound of a backlash while it's happening and just hang my head. Happens to everybody once in a while.

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I spooled on some Trilene XL 17# mono on clearance at the local walmart. Surprisingly, I cast better with it, than I did with the fluro. And thanks to Sam, I put some electric tape to reduce the backlash. In the past few days my casting in the yard has gotten further with little to no backlash and fraustrations. My confidence in baitcasters is definitely building. Now, I just need to get out and catch my first fish on it. Thanks!

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I've got an idea that this is common when moving from spinning gear to baitcasting gear. It was for me. Release timing is a lot different.

Truth^ IMHO, release timing is the thing that causes the most headaches for those new to baitcasting. Because the baitcaster has a revolving spool, as opposed to a spinning reel's stationary spool, it takes a fraction of a second for the spool on a baitcaster to start moving, so your release point must be earlier in the casting motion than with a spinning reel.

Good advice to spool up with some inexpensive mono for practice. You WILL backlash the reel while you're learning. No sense in throwing away expensive line.

Tom

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Beginning to realize time is everything with a baitcaster! I cast much better side-arm versus overhand; better distance and accurancy.

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