I have some mold marks (dents) down the left side of my 364V. Would filling in with clear gel and buffing smooth fix this? I have done chips in Non poly-flake gel before and it always ended up looking as good as new, poly-flake is new to me though. Thanks

I fixed the font size

Are you typing in teeny tiny letters or are my eyes going bad?

sorry

It should, if done properly.

Here are some things you need to know about gel coats. There are two kinds, with wax and without wax. There are actually more kinds but these are the two you need to know about. Gel coat with wax is for final or finish applications. Once applied, the wax "rises" to the surface providing a barrier to the air, preventing the gel coat from merely getting tacky. Understanding this, you can use either. I'd use the same process regardless because it will require less sanding, and buffing. Gel coat with wax may be hard to find.

Gel coat is chemically formulated so the surface exposed to the air will cure slowly and maintain a tacky surface. This type is applied to molds. This allows the subsequent application of materials to form a chemical bond with the gel coat rather than an adhesive bond. I don't understand the chemical process. All I know is that the gel coat and composite are linked together.

Gel coat with wax is for final or finish applications. Once applied, the wax "rises" to the surface providing a barrier to the air, preventing the gel coat from merely getting tacky. Understanding this, you can use either. I'd use the same process regardless because it will require less sanding, and buffing.

First, clean and wax the area around the dents. This will allow for any gel coat that gets spread onto the good surface to be peeled off easily. Dont worry about any that might get into the dents. This will be cleaned up in the subsequent steps. If you cannot find a mold release wax, a hard carnauba paste wax will work. Apply several coats.

Clean the depression and sand the surface to provide a good bond. Clean with acetone. Catalyze the gel coat and fill the depression. You may need more than one application depending on the depth of the depressions. Then, cut a piece of wax paper, large enough for a few inches of overlap beyone the perimeter of the depression. Place the wax paper over the gel coat, and spread it smoothly from one side to the other using a flexible spreader. The plastic spreaders that body shops use for bondo work fine.

If your boat has a metalflake finish, keep the sanding to a minimum. The flakes are generally aluminum with a colored coating. Cut through that coating and you'll end up with dull silver flakes mixed in.

Once spread, do not disturb the wax paper. It is your air barrier, but it also provides for an acceptably smooth surface that will require a minimum of sanding and buffing.

Leave it alone for 24 hours. Then, you can test by lifting a corner of the wax paper. It should peel off freely, and the gel coat should be cured. Cure time is dependent upon the temperature. Around seventy is ideal. But sixty degrees should be sufficient for it to cure in 24 hours.

Assuming all went well you are ready for the final steps of sanding and buffing. Again, sand lightly and carefully when blending into the original surface. You do not want to sand into the flake. That will be a major headache to do a decent repair job. You are better off with slight imperfections than damaged flakes.

Do not try to repair all of them at once. Start with the least conspicuous places to get a "feel" for the process. If you do make a mistake, it will not be as noticable.

Good luck with your project. If you have any questions post them here, or send me a private message.

Thanks! One of the spots is where a co-angler banged it with a weight, is there any dent removal system to fix this?