Micro

Is this a biblical reference? For you, perhaps if we were talking about smallmouth.

They are among the best you can buy. Well made with great actions. Unfortunately for me, my favorites have fragile finishes. My 100DD Pointer with scales (can't remember the color name) seems to lose their scales easily. They still look good, though

What some may not realize is that many of the finest bass lakes become the equivalent of "seriously sick" every summer. Rising water temperatures and algae growth seriously deplete dissolved oxygen in water. This phenomenon creates oxygen-absent dead-zones and fish kills. Fish kills (and plankton die-offs) do nothing but compound the problem. The decay process uses yet more dissolved oxygen, and the decomposing fish add nutrients to the water that feed the algae. The air we breathe contains oxygen at the rate of 200,000 parts per million. Freshwater with a dissolved oxygen content of just 10 parts per million would be consider oxygen-rich. Many freshwater lakes, including some I fish, experience oxygen depletions to the level of around 3 parts per million - seriously stressing fish. A drop to 2 parts per million can cause a partial or total fish kill. Throwing a dead fish in the water may not seem like a big deal. But it is the equivalent of pollution. And if you do it in a lake which is experiencing low oxygen levels, all you do it compound the problem. Not only does it suck more needed oxygen out of the water, it pre-disposes the fish in the lake to disease. It's just bad management. I've always felt that if we feel bass are worthy of catching, they are worthy of protecting. Protecting them means knowing them. I highly recommend anyone with an interest in the ecology of black bass check this book: http://www.afsbooks.org/x54031xm.html It's less expensive than a really good rod or reel. But it will tell you more than you thought there was to know about bass.

If you happen to toss back a dead fish, try and toss it up on land, not back in the water. Decaying fish take a lot of dissolved oxygen out of the water.

I hardly ever see these reels mentioned. I'm thinking of bolstering my brackish water arsenal with some more spinning rigs and wonder if anyone can give me a review of the Saros reel.

Good deal! Great reel. With care, it will last the rest of your life. The cool thing about the C4 is that if you decide to stop fising with it, you can mount it on the front bumper of your truck and use it as a winch.

Yes, how stupid of you. That's OK. I didn't know what it was, either.

Adjusting the brake on the Curado (Citica) is easy compared to the old Curado BSF (which sucked). First, it only takes a 1/4 turn to unlock the side plate. The mechanism is very precise. Second, the plate is now on a pin so it doesn't come off in your hand - it just swings out of your way. This is a definate advantage over the Revo S reel which has a 6 pin brake. You have to take the side plate off completely on the Revo S. For me, I'll set the brake and probably never touch it again. I like less braking because I like (or in the habit of) using my thumb. One other thing about the Revo STX - it has a clicking spool-tension knob. The Curado does not. This is an inconsequential difference. The Revo has a bigger line eye (or whatever it's called) and it's easier to get the line through the hole than the Curado. These reels are both so good it may come down to which one you think looks cooler.

Stren ain't so cheap anymore since they kept the same price but reduced the package size from 330 to 175 yards. But I've always liked the line. That's a Bass Pro Shop gimmick!!! I brought that up a few weeks ago but no one noticed. At BPS stores small spools of Stren original are 175 yards and the big spools are 550 yards (versus 330 and 1,000 everywhere else). And they are only a dollar or so cheaper than the bigger spools anywhere else. You can still get Stren in the 330 and 1,000 yard spools. I refuse to buy Stren at BPS because it's too damned expensive for what you get.

I've never used it in a car, but I ruined a Kohler engine on a John Deere tractor by draining the regular oil and refilling with synthetic (changed filter, too). I have no idea why, and I haven't touched synthetic since.

Did it come in a Citica box? If it did, it's probably someone else's return.

The Revo has more drag that you are ever going to need for LMB. 18 lbs on the HS version. That's a lot of drag pressure. The Curado has less, but still more than you will need for LMB. So I don't consider it a real advantage over the Curado. The brake issue is not a real big deal for me, either. I grew up throwing Ambassedeurs with 2 pin non-adjustable brakes. I learned to cast with my thumb. So I'm used to controling overruns without much help from a brake. But if I were relying on the brake more, the Curado's is better. It's a 6-pin mechanical brake and it will slow the spool very well. The Revo's is a magnetic brake and in its lowest setting it might as well not even be there. On max, it slows the spool reasonably well. I usually leave them set at the 50% mark. The plus on the Revo is that it's externally adjustable. I think the brake situation contributes, though, to the superior casting distance for the Revo. It's a trade-off. I usually don't fish where I need the longests cast possible. On the Curado, you give the side dial a 1/4 turn (very precise clicks BTW) and the side plate swings down on a pin (so it won't fall off completely). So the Curado brake is more effective, but the Revo's is more easily adjusted. On thing I forgot to mention is finish. Both finishes are killer. I'm glad I have both.

Sensation was, at least at one time, Berkley's biggest seller - even over XL. So some people liked it. I haven't found a fluoro or co-poly line yet that I really like. And I only use braid on a couple of rods. Otherwise, I stick to plain mono - Trilene XL and Stren Original. It's cheap, good line, and allows me to respool more frequently.

I have 5 Revos (1 STX, 2 SX, 2 SC) and 2 Curado 200 DHSVs. I compare the Revo STX and Curado 200 DHSV this way: The STX casts farther. The STX has a better, smoother drag. The STX seems to me to be made a little more ruggedly - both sideplates are metal, beefier guts (Curado 200 has metal crank-side plate, and graphite brake-side plate, Curado 100 is graphite on both sides). The Curado has a better brake (the STX moderate to none). The Curado has better grips (good for cold weather). The Curado is better for brackish water. Toss up between the reels with respect to smoothness. Both are very smooth. The STX does have less back play. The Curado is a little quieter when cranking. (Tested side-by-side with empty spools). I've dealt with Abu customer service, and they have been flawless. The Revo is smaller than the Curado 200. Both feel good to me. Both are fantastic reels. If I were going to shose one for casting lighter baits and needed distance, or needed a mega-drag, I'd get the Revo STX. If you need good brake performance, and want to flip/pitch, or just like a bigger reel,, the Curado D 200 is the way to go. You really can't lose here.

I don't know what the MSRP is. It's got the TAS's multi-modulus blank with new reel seat and Alconite guides. I'm betting in the $125-$150 range.

I'm not sure if they are even available yet. But they look really nice - nice guides, neat reel seat. I've been wanting a split grip rod. http://www.allstarrods.com/as_asrseries.html

On a tangent, Rapala's glass cranks are super durable, too. The reflective element is inside the crank. I have some that have been chewed on by pickerel to the point they feel like sandpaper and they just keep on shining. I really like the durability of all Rapala lures.

LOL, that's awesome! ;D

I never saw them. That fish is freaky looking. It's face and eyes make it look like there's some intelligence there. No wonder old-time sea farers thought they say sea monsters.

http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/baja-mexico-fishing-reports-discussion/81929-isla-san-marcos-sea-story-09-01-07-oarfish.html

Happy birthday. You gotta a great wife - nice gifts!!!!!

I live in southeast Virginia and fish a few of our tidal creeks in winter. I've had a lot of luck with medium size cranks in chartreuse, firetiger and bright craw colors that dive to whereever the fish are holding. The deepest these creeks get are about 15 feet and I usually catch fish running them on the bottom from about 6 feet down. Cranks with a tight wobble and with lips big enough to get them to the bottom on a slow retrieve seems to work best for me.

I've started using a flippin' rod, too. I've been using a 7'6" All Star heavy/extra-fast with an Abu Garcia EXT Pro reel and 30# Stren Super Braid. I just started using it at the tail end of summer so didn't get a lot of action with it, but I'm confident it will work well. And give me the back-bone to move fish out of the weeds and pads.

Heck yes, the C4 will hold up to the biggest, baddest, fattest bass on the planet. These reels are used a lot by musky and pike fishermen. I use my not only for largemouth, but have landed many, many striped bass and many blue catfish on mine (in fresh, brackish and saltwater). I took two of my C4s apart for end-of-season cleaning and lubing and I am still amazed just how ruggedly they are built. And no worries about the 4600 size, it will hold all the line you need for largemouth fishing. But the more versatile size is probably the 5600.

"I am looking for good value and would spend slightly over $100 for the right reel." And don't worry about not having a picture of any other reel disassembled. That all pretty much look alike. Well except that the other reel wouldn't have as much stainless steel, or stacked ball bears, or brass, or over-built bail, or....