Paul Roberts

There is nothing out there in the scientific literature, that I've seen yet, that looks at this question: bass feeding related to weather. The few telemetry observations out there suggest weather has no influence on bass. One researcher went as far as to say that air and water are just two entirely different worlds. This isn't entirely true, from my experience, at least in the shallow ponds I fish. Our sampling by angling is not necessarily always a good test for whether bass are actively feeding or not. If we make a killing, it is likely bass were actively feeding, but not always, and if we had to scrounge up a few bites, it doesn't mean bass weren't feeding. The whole "cold front" thing is probably the biggest fear anglers have. Over time, I've been working on surgically removing this fear from my approach. It just doesn't seem to hold up, at least much of the time. Sure there are fronts that could snow on our parade, but these are relatively rare, and temperature studies I've seen show bass can tolerate temperature fluctuations and still feed well. I'm not at all convinced about the direct effects of barometric pressure, and feel that associated effects (on fishing, and the food chain) are better explained by associated changes in light penetration. My take on the fishing end is this: That high visibility conditions (bright sky, clear water, and calm surface) are the toughest to dupe fish under, especially in shallower water. And that lower visibility conditions (overcast skies, or stained water, or rippled surface) are the easiest to dupe fish under. Adjusting for this, I've been able to eke out good or adequate fishing under post frontal conditions. In early through late spring, I actually prefer, and target, these days. By midsummer, it's just the opposite. It appears cold fronts may be a bigger effect with Florida bass, but I have no experience with them.

Thanks CJ. That was fun.

Where are you -what state? Where in the season are your fish right now?

I can tell the northern guessers from the southern! A Rapala!! Jigs!!!!! 5-3 5-12 3-14 4-2

Were these tourneys in 'bama? Where in the season are you? Pre-summer, summer? Surface temps?

Where are you? What state? How big a water body?

I haven't looked into it really. I've always called the barometer, "the afterthought". By the time the fish respond, the weather has changed and it looks like they are simply responding to associated sky and water conditions. But, again, I haven't given it a fair shake. Others may disagree. Here are some articles on the skeptical side of the issue: another site http://www.midcurren...ssure_myth.aspx

Uncle Josh #101.

Pondhopper, that one in your avatar has to go 12, (and your fingers weigh a pound each).

Excellent post. Interesting that NY and TX have the same number of good growing days. But, I'm now wondering, what about hours? I mean TX has to have warmer nights, over much of the year, while NY waters are having to warm up again each day following the chillier nights for much of those "perfect days". I suppose you are using mean temps, and TX just has more days above the perfect temps, that offset the apparent difference? With correspondingly appropriate amounts of food, can growth at, say, 60F match growth at 80F? Similarly, but an aside: What happens above 83F? Is it that there is not enough food to match the metabolic need? Or is there a basic breaking down of metabolic efficiency there, at such temps?

#2 weighs the most. #3 the least, followed by #4. So lessee... In order of size largest to smallest: 2, 1, 4, 3

Yeah, spawning's done here too. Some smallies have staked out bluegill colonies, others are cruising the weed edges, and some are inserting into the slop. There's 'gills all over the pond shore to shore, and all over the surface. I think though that the above scenarios are the bass' best bet at successful hunts.

I read, write, and look at fishing stuff when I CAN"T fish. If I find I'd rather look at and talk fishing than go, then I am losing it. It's time to get out there.

This is fun. No, I'm not guessing, except to say all fish are over 4lbs -I think. Hawgcaller, do you have an inside line here??

Ben, usually (not always), if they're in shallow slop, you'll know it. If they are actively feeding in there, they move water and vegetation around. It's often subtle water movement, "nervous water", wakes, stems moving, etc... . Sometimes there are loud surges. Listen for these! Likely there is a pod of gills and some bass at that location. Take a little time to observe, as you fish. Mentally mark locations where you see or hear feeding bass. Look for openings, or thin mat area, when you get there, and fish them carefully. Often, bass in shallow slop are easily spooked. So keep quiet. Decide where to place your casts and retrieve into potential strike zones. Retrieves aren't always critical in the slop. In open water, retrieves, how the lure looks, can be critical. But in the slop, where the bass' visibility is obscured, how the lure looks at all times is not so critical. True slop lures are pretty simple and don't do much, except not get fouled up. It's at the edges and pockets where more triggering from the lure is needed. This is where the buzz frogs, walkers, fluttery jigs, and specialized spinnerbaits (like the Grass King) shine. As suggested by ebby, making a lure look alive, and teasing with it, makes sense and is fun to do. But, often, you just have to help them find your lure, and slower retrieves often help the bass find target and capture that lure. It may take some probing around to find the fish, and accurate casting and slow retrieves to help them find the lure. If the cover is dense you may need to make closer spaced casts, and a louder lure is good like those with a popper head that can create more disturbance. But, if there are enough openings, or the mat material is thin enough (algae) a more subtle tapered head works and you may see wakes come from several feet away. That's always cool. I also fish a weedless jig in the slop too, if there are openings, and at the edges. But it has to be a very weedless design. I like the Mango jig, in 1/8oz, by Nichols, out of Indiana. Great lure. I cast in line with some openings and then retrieve the jig fairly rapidly (not enough to put em down if they are spooky) with the rod high over the mats until I hit a pocket, then slow to a swim when I hit the pocket, and let the jig and trailer do its thing. If you're in a boat, or a high bank from shore, you may be able to punch heavy jigs vertically through the denser mats. I'm usually either in a float tube, wading, or on relatively level bank, so I'm limited to fishing more horizontally. Slop fishing is often relatively easy not too much is required in the retrieve/triggering department. If you are not catching then they may not be in there, or they are hunkered down and inactive. Look elsewhere, then try again later. Oh yes, a word in advance: When you get an explosion, don't react! It's hard to do, but wait for the bass to find, catch, dive, and crush that lure. It takes a couple full seconds to happen. Then set the hook, get the head up, keep it up, and wind em in. Levelwind gear, a MH rod minimum, and at least 14# line are required. You'll know if your tackle is up to par soon enough. Might need to go shopping.

You know, if you do a lot of photography you get to realize how much a lens can/will distort reality, and how critical distance-to-the-lens-plane is. This is exponentially pronounced with a wider angle lens. The area closest to the lens and to the center will be magnified. Just an inch can matter A LOT. When taking photos, think about an invisible plane (like a pane of glass), a fixed distance in front of the lens. As you move closer, the first objects/areas that plane crosses will be the largest. The wider the lens setting the greater the distortion. If you know this you can make fish look really big. (We always made jokes about Bill "Big Hands" Dance, and Al "Popeye Lindner.) Or really small usually unintentionally. This also makes judging fish size, after the fact, really impossible, with any accuracy. You also cannot accurately, from a snapshot, measure a fish's length, and then say your leg or arm length, and get it right even close. You can do this, but you have to plan for it ahead of time, and be very precise in executing it. If you want the truest photographic representation of a fish, zoom in a bit (so you are not at "wide angle"), make sure the camera lens (that invisible plane) is perfectly parallel with the subject, hold the fish so it is touching your chest (same plane as your chin) and smile. But anglers (and magazines) don't tend to want these images, preferring the distortion, for their WOW! effect. In general, mature female bass (usually 16up) have mature proportions and can pass for really big bass. When fishing we are often in cramped quarters in a boat and the photographer has to use a wide lens setting, which sets up amazing distortion. And of course people know enough to push the fish out toward the lens, or they inadvertently end up with an arm, hand, or rod jutted forward, that then appears huge. Look at the fingers holding the fish they are likely closer to the same plane as some of the fish. They won't tell you how big the fish is, but will give you an idea of the amount of distortion in the overall picture. The best remedy is to carry a QUALITY and CALIBRATED scale. Second best is a tape measure. We can all judge relative body condition from there and get in the ballpark on a guess, because we know a 16 bass cannot weigh 5lbs. The range for an 18 is 2 to 4lbs going from very thin to potato sack. Yes, there are waters where an 18" could be 5lbs but this is very rare and it would be obvious -your eyes would bug out of your head upon seeing such a freak. So, here it is again. This data was taken from 1000's of northern largemouth bass. Realize that this represents average condition. Bass may vary quite a bit either side. Source: American Fisheries Society Length Weight 8 in. 5 oz. 9 in. 7 oz. 10 in. 9 oz. 11 in. 11 oz. 12 in. 14 oz 13 in. 1 lb. 3 oz 14 in. 1 lb. 7 oz 15 in. 1 lb. 13 oz. 16 in. 2 lb. 4 oz. 17 in. 2 lb. 12 oz. 18 in. 3 lb. 4 oz. 19 in. 3 lb. 14 oz. 20 in. 4 lb. 9 oz. 21 in. 5 lb. 6 oz. 22 in. 6 lb. 4 oz. 23 in. 7 lb. 3 oz. Here's a great article on fish weights and angler expectation's, from a cool site run by Brian Waldman: http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/2006/12/all_fishermen_a.html

That's a cool gadget.

Great post! Very funny, and so true. I'd be darn wary of the $6.49 price though, because the next big discovery will be a GOOD scale. And even these need re-calibrating every now and then.

Photos, because of the way lenses work, distort the image -much more than you might realize. It's really hard to judge a fish by a photo. I'd agree with others on the ballpark size of that fish. Carry at least a measuring tape with you. Here's a table that offers weights for length for average condition bass. Each half inch can make a big difference, especially with larger bass. Length Weight Source: American Fisheries Society 8 in. 5 oz. 9 in. 7 oz. 10 in. 9 oz. 11 in. 11 oz. 12 in. 14 oz 13 in. 1 lb. 3 oz 14 in. 1 lb. 7 oz 15 in. 1 lb. 13 oz. 16 in. 2 lb. 4 oz. 17 in. 2 lb. 12 oz. 18 in. 3 lb. 4 oz. 19 in. 3 lb. 14 oz. 20 in. 4 lb. 9 oz. 21 in. 5 lb. 6 oz. 22 in. 6 lb. 4 oz. 23 in. 7 lb. 3 oz.

Over the years I've had to concede that there just isn't a single lure out there I can reasonably expect to produce every time, or when I wish it to, at least with a satisfying catch rate. Catching fish consistently really comes down to understanding water/cover type and conditions in front of you, and then having the confidence with a variety of lures to cover those. My "GoTo's" change seasonally, daily, even hourly. With catch rate being my focus I tend to go with the fastest lure I can get away with. This may mean a buzzbait, or swimming jig, a crankbait, a topwater, or worm, depending on conditions. I expect to change lures, finishes, and retrieves throughout the day. For instance: I love to see bass blow up on topwaters. If conditions allow I like a buzzbait. But buzzbaits tend to require overcast and/or wind rippled water. Otherwise a buzzbait simply falls off my "go to" list. If the surface calms but I still have some clouds, or even haze, or the bass simply won't commit to the rhythmic cadence of a buzzer, I'll likely switch to a jumpbait. If things calm further and water is clear enough I may have to go to a popper (slower). Might be the same pod of fish, but as conditions change I change. There's not a "go-to" out there that will cover all the bases. I suppose some lure types produce a greater catch rate over a variety of conditions than others, deemed versatile. But the exact version of that lure type even, will vary with the water or cover type I'm presented with, my experience and confidence, and often must be adjusted to the fish's reaction. I do have lures I've done particularly well with, but my response tends to be then to move on to something else for good reason. I'm not a tournament angler which puts me in the position of being free to experiment every time out, in order to expand my versatility my options. I'm also a small water angler, and I commonly find certain areas in a given water body that hold the majority of bass, and some waters are small enough the bass stay put. Such areas usually lend themselves to particular lure types: a jig, or a worm, a bulged spinnerbait, or a crankbait type, brings satisfying results. But I still may have to adjust size, finish, or retrieve, depending on conditions. Interestingly, I've also gotten to know particular fish that responded to particular lures better than others. I remember a 28-30 inch pike (he grew over the three years I fished there) that was vulnerable to small dark colored crankbaits. Other lures might only elicit a follow or short strike. I knew a large bass in another pond that loved BIG crankbaits. I knew of a particular place where walleyes targeted concentrated shad under bridge lights. I found these walleyes could learn to discern lures. I'd catch three on a particular plug, then only get short strikes, then nothing. So I'd switch plugs, and start the series again. It got so I would start my fishing at that spot with a half dozen plugs layed out. And I'd go through em one at a time. Showed me that fish can discern seemingly subtle (to us) things about lures and retrieves, and their response can vary greatly to these seemingly subtle differences. I think rods and lines magnify what we do at the rod end, and if we are not concentrating, the lures may fail to trigger for us. Thus, confidence/concentration (knowing what to do with a particular lure in real time), results in bites. This is one reason I think lure colors are so often ascribed to explain a good catch, when it was actually subtlety in the particular lures action, coupled with the retrieve that served as the more important trigger. There's lots one can do to add triggers to a retrieve, that far outweigh color in effect. I also believe that there are colors, or more accurately, finishes, that outperform others in certain conditions but one would never discern them if they didn't have the other parameters, depth, speed, action/triggers, understood and in control. All this said, there are some basic lures that will catch a lot of bass, even the majority of the bass we catch. Even with the above mentioned walleyes, I did discover some lures, one in particular, those eyes had a darn hard time learning. And I believe I know why. It lies in the ease at which those subtle triggers can be elicited even when you're tired, or psyched out. Some lures have this built in more than others. In most of my bass waters, I could get by with a plastic worm (or two), but some waters and conditions lend themselves to a dramatic catch increase by my switching to...a lipless crank, a swimming jig, a spinnerbait, or a weedless frog, or... But that's the macro scale. Most anglers know where to apply these. At the micro-scale, at times when I've plied my tricks and I'm not catching, then rarely is it a lure change that turns the tide. That comes either from the conditions/fish side of the fence, or it's a locational, or a concentration/triggering deal. Lures just don't fish themselves much of the time. SO...if you're still with me: When I choose a lure, I look at water/cover type and particular conditions and pick a lure I already know how to operate my Go To for that particular place and time. And then I play with it until I elicit reactions. Then I just keep concentrating and adjusting until I've dialed in, or admit defeat, or the sun simply goes down on me.

Our slop fishing has set up. This develops earlier in my shallower ponds and, for some reason, weed development has come even earlier this year than usual. I found my first slop fishing on May 29th this year. Bluegills pile into the slop as it develops, especially when it matts. This is a feeding movement for the 'gills, and often you can hear them "kissing" the surface. On the 29th it sounded like popcorn! This piling into broken cover makes them vulnerable to the bass, which take exuberant advantage. They need a little room to be effective, so the hot spots are often breaks in the cover where the bass can get at those gills. On a good day almost every good break in the cover will have a bass, and some of the larger females are usually there (they really stay on those 'gills). Breaks were created by bottom substrate changes, rooted brush, bluegill spawning colonies (a double attraction), and especially in some of my ponds, muskrat burrows. The coming and going of the rats wear a channel through the vegetation, offering the bass a great place to get in, and hunt. The word ambush is often used to describe bass hunting, and used loosely, this is fine. But technically bass are not lie in wait ambush predators like some fishes that specialize in this. Nor are they very good open water bust and run hunters, like tuna, which specialize on schooled baitfish. Bass are generalists and hunt in a variety of places. But the best description of how they hunt, and where they are most effective, is stalking in broken cover. They are constantly looking for opportunities to get into an advantageous position on prey, and explains the ofttimes subtle ways our truly crude lures (sorry Lucky Craft) can suddenly look vulnerable to a bass. Open water bluegills, and those in dense cover, are difficult for bass to catch. So the bass bide their time, waiting for opportunities to get close: low light, and broken cover, are primary. The early slop, as it develops enough to attract gills, and offers good openings for bass to hunt effectively, is a great time to fish this scenario. Later, water temps get high (where I fish), and cover becomes denser, and the slop fishing becomes less consistent. The other day (16th) I had a neat, and new, experience with this fishing. I found a pond with both smallmouth and largemouth. I decided to target the LM and found some in the slop (milfoil and algae) -the 'gills were in there. But I found smallies mixed in too. They had inserted themselves into the dense cover with the 'gills and LM. These are not extensive slop areas, in this pond, just a 20 foot wide band of mostly milfoil with filamentous algae. I had to adjust the hookset, further than with LM -waiting a tad longer for them to handle the lure. I finally went with a ScumFrog popper that was smaller and had a smaller hook. This 19" though didn't need extra time. She made a ferocious strike through a matt of algae and was hooked deep, on the back of the tongue -a dangerous location for the fish. She didn't bleed though and I hope she's OK. I hooked two more big smallies too, on a weedless jig, at the outside edge of the weedwall -another 19", and a 20" I dropped. That 20 jumped, then spun me around in my float tube before popping free directly below me. Oooooh that was a nice smallie. But, I'll see her again. Favorite slop lures: Mango Jig (fished with trailer), ScumFrog, Hollow Frog (this one is by Mann's), Strike King Grass King spinnerbait (This amazing lure is not made anymore!!! Everyone should write to SK and request that it be re-issued. I have and they say it's not scheduled to be re-introduced. To arms!!! Call them. Inundate them. I only have 5 left!).

Nice work. Very beautiful. I liked the music -the mix. In general, 'm not big on heavy metal for fishing vids -maybe it's worn out on me. But you had a nice mix. Very creative. What equipment did you use -for the underwater shots? What's a head cam?

I guess I've had no trouble with them. They come with a hole punched for the hook. The trick is finding it. It's quite close to the front edge. If it tears out eventually, I pop in another with a knife or awl. To back the hook out, I rotate the pork around inside the hook bend and pull to open the hole, with the pork pulled out away from the barb. It just pops off the hook. I re-use the pork. Just pop it back in the jar. The more use they get the softer they get (I had some that were about 10years old -they were the best!). I pre-soften my pork, by tapping the tails with a hammer against a hard smooth surface just hard enough to soften but not cut. This increases action a lot. To keep pork from drying out on the rod when I'm throwing other stuff (I almost always have a jig-n-pig on a rod), I carry a zip-lock sandwich bag, enclose the jig and pork, and stick it on the rod keeper as usual. When I need it I stash the bag in a pocket.

Had a neat, and new, experience the other day. I'm normally a largemouth fisher -of late anyway. I found a pond with both smallmouth and largemouth. I decided to target the LM and found some in the slop (milfoil and algae) -there were bluegills in there. But I found smallies mixed in too. They had inserted themselves into the dense cover with the 'gills and LM. These are not extensive slop areas, just a 20 foot wide band of mostly milfoil with filamentous algae. I had to adjust the hookset, further than with LM -waiting a tad longer for them to handle the lure. I finally went with a ScumFrog popper that was smaller and had a smaller hook. This 19" though didn't need extra time. She was hooked deep -she didn't bleed but was hooked on the back of the tongue. Hope she's OK. I hooked two more big smallies, on a weedless jig, at the outside edge of the weedwall -another 19", and a 20" I dropped. That 20 jumped, then spun me around in my float tube before popping free directly below me. Oooooh that was a nice smallie.

Ditto grimlin. Check all plugs and tune.