Paul Roberts

No. I too fish vegetation a lot and a "giving" rod is a real handicap. I also like power in the tip (not necessarily 'faster') for the sensitivity.

Yeah, I know. Just jumping off, since I said so much about winching and not giving line.

OK... I wrote this for another thread about light weight outfits... but it turned out that thread was actually about the weight (in oz.) of rigs, rather than about "light tackle" bass rigs. I'll post it here realizing it's overkill... Power has to do with the lure sizes you need to throw, and the size hooks they have. Length has to do with reach and casting accuracy to some extent as shorter rods simply put the cast trajectory closer to your line of sight. Here's a quick run down of my light end of things: -UL spinning rig with "4lb" (.008) line for 1/32-1/8oz baits with small #4 to #12 hooks. Small ponds, stream smallmouth, and on larger waters when big hatches of prey-fish fry cause bass to become myopic. Otherwise I prefer more a powerful rig. These UL rods are 5-1/2ft to 6ft. A 5-1/2fter is standard on small streams for me where streamside cover and casting accuracy can be paramount. -L/ML spinning with "6lb" (.009) lines for 3/32-1/4oz baits for small baits in early spring, and during winter. These rods are 5-1/2 to 6-1/2ft. I also use a 9-1/2ft rig with "6lb" for Float-n-Fly rigging in winter. -M 6 to 6-1/2ft spinning with "8lb" (.010) lines. A standard rig for early spring when water has high clarity and is mostly cover free. Using small jigs, grubs, small to med hardbaits, jerks, in-line spinners, blade-baits, ... . It’s also my standard “finesse” rig for summer fishing as well, always in the boat for bright high visibility conditions. I also keep an extra spool of “10lb” (.011) line bc where I fish I can run into carpets of Chara, a macro-algae that’s like steel wool. Let a bass bury into it and they don’t want to come out. I'm listing only spinning rigs because my lightest casting rigs have a minimum of 12lb lines on them which is getting out of the "light" side of bass fishing. Hope this helps.

Zebco Card 4 (the green-n-white), Quick 440N, and others... But the oldest (by a lot) is: My grandfather's Pflueger Progress brass birdcage fly reel that dates to late 1800's to early 1900's. I use it for small stream brookies at least once a season. I have two of these Sigma's: an 030 and 035. I bought the 035 for my Dad back in the 1980's. He scarcely used it and just recently he shipped it to me. It's essentially spanking new. Yeah, there are much nicer reels out there now, and even taken down and lubed properly they are a little "raspy". But I'm happy to have them. Yours look to be in fine shape too.

Braid is expensive and bass don't run far, so I use backing (kite string to take up space), and a uni-knot on top of the string.

Has everything to do with the lure sizes you need to throw, and the size hooks they have. I use rigs from UL (4lb lines) to heavy (50# braid). Here's a quick run down of my light end of things: -UL spinning rig with "4lb" (.008) line for 1/32-1/8oz baits with small #4 to #12 hooks. Small ponds, stream smallmouth, and on larger waters when big hatches of prey fish fry cause bass to become myopic. Otherwise I prefer more a powerful rig. -L/ML spinning with "6lb" (.009) lines for 3/32-1/4oz baits for small baits in early spring, and during winter. I also use a 9-1/2ft rig with "6lb" for Float-n-Fly rigging in winter. -M spinning with "8lb" (.010) lines. A standard rig for early spring when water is has high clarity and is mostly cover free. Using small jigs, grubs, small to med hardbaits, jerks, in-line spinners, blade-baits, ... . I'm listing only spinning rigs because my lightest casting rigs have a minimum of 10lb lines on them which is getting out of the "light" side of bass fishing in my experience. Hope this helps. Ah! Are you asking about "light tackle" rigs or "light weight" rigs? LOL. As in weight?

Great thread. I'll list what I consider as I fish. Not sure I can list them in order of importance as that can vary. However I tend to look at similar stuff on any given trip. I look at things many anglers don’t (or as closely) in part bc I fish small shallow (<18ft) waters now, ones I know pretty well, and such water can be greatly affected by conditions and circumstances. And bc I’m interested in how conditions and circumstances affect fish and fishing; That's pretty much what motivates me in my fishing. I generally choose a water body for a day’s fishing, or avoid certain ones, by season or current conditions, or simply on whim: Do I want to catch a lot, go for bigger ones, use certain lure/technique types, or chase or avoid certain conditions. Sometimes I purposely fish difficult circumstances just to try and understand them better. Other times I just want to whack some fish. I try to get a bead on things before I go by looking at weather trends (paying particular attention to heat, light, and wind) and by checking my journals for previous visits for that date. Lately, due to the catastrophic flooding my area received, I’m checking satellite images, and researching access and fishery reports -almost like I'd do in scoping out brand new waters. Some of my favorite waters were wiped out, some closed for reconstruction –all were impacted and are different waters limnologically/ecologically from what they were. Some things I consider: First, I refer to my journals for that particular water and date. Too often I’ve arrived at a particular water only to find I’ve brought the wrong tackle (UL to H). Although every year is different, I want to at least be in the ballpark and checking against previous years can be a help. On my smallest waters in particular I’ll track populations, paying attention to winterkills and tracking year classes and growth. Some waters are more worth my time than others and this can change fast. Micro-season -meaning just where exactly in a particular seasonal period a water body is can be important. Fish moods change within seasonal periods and things change fast in small waters. And I can’t just go run up or down-lake, or deeper or shallower, to adjust for seasonal timing, although I can jump in the car and find a different small water. I don’t always know just where things are though until I’m there and can see the signs. Vertical water temperature profile: I look for a thermocline and/or other water to write off or investigate. Lighting conditions –water clarity, surface conditions, sky conditions: These inform me as to tackle and presentation that would be best bets. I’d like to think they inform me about bass activity level but I’m too cautious for that, and sometimes we can adjust regardless of our notions or the apparent facts in front of us. Wind, which affects lighting, temperature, current, and some key presentation elements. Mood: I try to be aware of fish “mood” –whether they are spooky, aggressive, need speed, or something else. I’ve often found that when little bass are chasing up my baits at the end of a cast that a pick-up in speed interests larger bass too -at times it's just plain required. Circumstances: I’m always looking for “carnage zones” and other “in’s”. These have included: insect emergences, prey activity, rain, wind, current, other anglers, boats, even… carp, and cows. Pays to be wide awake and looking for opportunities.

When I mention 'winching' I'm talking about bass in cover where they can wrap up. In open water I'm happy to let them show their stuff. However, drag isn't needed for that to happen. Rod and arm length absorb most of what most bass will dish out -at least up here in the North.

John, I came to understand "complete control" fly-fishing for stripers and trout in open water with a single action (1:1) fly reel. I found if I stayed smooth -no tugging or popping on the fish- they'd not really know what's up and I could reel a fish straight in (just like you need to do with bass in cover) headfirst right to my feet or boatside. I came to call winching unsuspecting fish in (and quickly) "torque-reeling". Then of course I had a green fish on a short-line, but that's not the point. Tugging, pumping, giving line, alarms the fish and they run away! Fighting a neutrally buoyant critter is all about shoulders, flanks and tail. Keep their head pointed at you and they have no choice. I learned to whip big trout on light lines (like you describe) -including some approaching 10lbs on 1lb Trilene- by lulling them in, via "torque-reeling". Do I do this with bass? No, not necessary much of the time, except for those in dense cover described above. However, I do not give line that doesn't need to be given. How often do bass need line given -at least an amount that your rod and arm length cannot give? If really needed -like the line maxes on a really large one, or the fish isn't hooked well on a small gapped hook, etc..- I can easily make a half-turn back and give.

Ditto. Applications are how I make such decisions, which are mostly based on cover present, and on sky and water conditions. In terms of presentation, the important factor is line diameter, moreso than rated break strength. A "6lb" line could have a diameter of .009 or .010 depending on brand and what it's advertised to do. Most "6lb" lines (both mono and FC) are .009 diam and break somewhere around 8+lbs. Lines advertised as "abrasion resistant" lines, or "super-strong", are often actually .010 diameter -really an "8lb" line (breaking at 10+lbs). That .001" can matter in terms of presentation because water is a viscous gelatinous substance and its affect is multiplied across the length of line between you and your lure. My advice is to always purchase by diameter rather than lb test rating.

I have my grandfather's JB -dating back to the late 40's/early 50s. My dad caught some memorable bass on it including the first bass I ever laid eyes on, when I was 5 and I still remember them and how awestruck I was with them. The 'bug was passed on to me and I've caught some nice bass on it too. That's just the way JB's are. My son is next in line; This summer I'm hoping. 1986 (May seem like a long time ago to some, but it really wasn't ):

Is that a plastic gear? I see brass and a "white-sh" one still in place. Or is it aluminum?

No way. I don't even want it in my head. I hunt a lot too, and at times it can take a couple days to get the traffic, music, and all that other noise out of my system.

The talk about current drag technology is not where I'm coming from on back-reeling. It's the whole idea of just who is giving out line and when. I don't want my rigs giving line when I don't want them too. There are advantages to back-reeling in many places, but in bass fishing it's esp noticeable when pulling fish out of heavy cover. You need to have their head pointing at you and coming in. Let them get a shoulder against you and you are then fighting tail. Winching with a locked down drag is the best way. But... there's a risk there, esp if you just happen to not be using 65# braid at the moment. People handle this different ways. With a casting rig, lock down, and free-spool when necessary. Or, clamp a thumb down and pull. But then you reach the top of your pull, you gotta reel, and the drag gives! That 6 inches of line your reel (not you) just gave allows that fish to turn his head down and the shoulders and tail follow. Wrestle him back up again, and again, until he tires, or buries. In some places, you don't want them to bury. In milfoil we have to go over and dig them out. In wood we may have to wait and let them un-wrap themselves. In Chara (stuffs like steel wool) you have to wait them out. In rip-rap, you can try changing angles -and will have to re-tie- but you may be better off waiting them out. I've even had bass swim down into muskrat burrows! When using drag, you just have to be sure you're appropriately, possibly over-, gunned. With drag, if you go heavy enough it shouldn't matter all that much, you've got an efficient winch. Go to 65# braid and you're set. With spinning tackle, it's a different story; You can lock down and back-reel, if needed. Most often, it's not needed. If I find I didn't lock my drag down sufficiently, I'm apt to let out a stream of cusswords that can damage ear drums within a mile radius. I give line when I deem it appropriate. "What the heck (#%#@^) is that drag doing anyway -thinking for me!??" I don't want my drag slipping -ever. I know how deep a bend in my rod the line can take. If I feel it's weakened I can back off. Line gets short -at boatside- I can back off. When I need to I can max things out. Seeing anglers fumbling with their drags (remember rear-drags, and "fightin' drags?), or setting so light the drag gives with every little turn of that fish's head, makes me... shake my head. Just why Boyd Duckett's fish were being given line, and twisting up his line, is lost on me. Some technology. BTW, fish don't have to be dog-tired to give up. Tugging and pulling and giving keeps them motivated, and their fins dug in. I decide when my reel gives line. And I'm darn stingy with it. I have no interest in talking anyone into back-reeling. At the same time, I can't see allowing a mindless stack of washers fight my fish for me. Thanks, but I don't need the "protection".

pork

I'm guessing over the top of weed beds and up on shallow points and flats. I used to use a smaller size Bomber Long A for super-shallow flats where other cranks couldn't run. I also had a Bagley's Topgun (a super-shallow floating minnow plug) that I doctored into a suspender. It was great on shallow warming flats in early spring, where other jerks ran too deep and fouled in bottom muck. I say "was" and "had" bc, as with CJ, the lip broke!

I was watching MLF recently and saw those pro's spinning reel's drag's buzzing with each 1+lb fish. Boyd Duckett (I believe it was) was reeling while the drag was turning! I don't get it. Back-reeling is SO much more efficient. It's less mindless, but mindless is not necessarily better. Just MHO.

Montana?

Flat (shad) style crank, jerk, hair jig, or grub. If we get an early thaw -possibly blade-bait or F-n-F.

Thanks all. They are all a bit pricey. I wonder if I can make something. Doesn't look too hard.

Take away his retrieve speed??! That is an interesting question.

aquaholik, tell me about this. Does Nanofil have more mass than braids? As to a better grip with the FG, possibly roughing the surface of the mono with very fine sandpaper might help? I'd probably add some CA glue as well.

Yeah, I was going to say the same thing -change the hooks. I've made wakers from Rebel and Rapala minnow plugs by gently heating the lip with a lighter and bending it downward. The lip on that Mac won't allow it, but I bet it has a pretty wide roll anyway.

So... how are these different from say pegging a weight a 1/3" above the hook on a T-rig?

Dunno. But whatever you get, and whatever it costs, you should calibrate every now and then. I picked up a 2.5lb and two 5lb barbell weights at Goodwill. Popped in a plastic grocery bag they'll check 2.5, 5, 7.5 and 10lbs.