J Francho

I use P-Line CXX in 8, 10, 12, 15, and 25 lb sizes on casting gear. KVD L&L is a must have.

You might want to put that info on your website. Many custom rod builders are selling balanced rods. Good luck in your endeavor.

What do you mean "bottom out?" Do you need to tighten the cap all the way down to get any tension? Or the opposite?

Maybe something to do with this: http://www.majorleaguefishing.com/anglers.html

Sportsman's Connection for printed, and Angling-Technologies for online.

This time of year up here, as weeds start to recede and die back a bit, fish tend to roam the formally weedy shallows and a wake bait is deadly. And yeah, Steve's article about big super slow sink or floaters is VERY true right now.

I'm confused, is this "pick your favorite __________," thread, or is this a "What ________ is best for me," thread? As far as Red's situation goes, if you can easily find places that you've been before without a GPS, then you probably don't need it at all. A GPS unit is a way to mark where you've been, where you've caught fish or located some cover or structural elements, and gives you the tools to get back there. Some even have very detailed maps with depth contours, shading, and full color. As I mentioned, any SI unit already has a GPS built in, so you are looking at a DI unit.

Then stop posting - you've made your point, and defended it numerous occasions. I hope the guys I fish with and against do not share you're opinion. This is a hot issue for tournament fisherman, not retired guys fishing off piers or in canals in their spare time - I do not expect you to understand a tournament fisherman's perspective. There is sportsmanship on the line here, along with not an insignificant sum of cash. If you can't understand why breaking the rules isn't a big deal, then agree to disagree, and move on.

Absolutely! Here is a Google Maps image of a point that clearly shows the rock walls and foundations present in this reservoir. I know without this detail, I would have a hard time putting the picture together with just a graph.

The bridge pictured is a stock photo, and not the bridge that was stolen in the article.

LMAO, Nice! I've handed a few of those out, LOL.

I use trout magnets under a float to get distance.

I got skunked last time on Port Bay, but my buddy Duane caught quite a few from the back of the boat. I don't get skunked too much bass fishing, but trout fishing, that's another story. I'm at a point where I'm really only after monster steelhead anyway, so it's not a big deal, and being outside is totally worth it.

d**n good advice, Robert.

That wasn't clear in the OP. The answer is still GPS for me. I fish in a lot of open water, though.

LMAO, maybe the construction on the Irondequoit Bay Bridge here isn't construction at all!

Faster is easier. I think a longer rod is more important. Back in the day, when a 5:1 reel was "high speed" compared to all the other 3:1 reels, I don't recall having an issue landing fish. Currently, I have three jig rods with 6.3:1 (30"?) and one with 7.1:1. (32").

So, when the hooks go dull, do you throw the crankbait out? There are no cons to changing dull hooks.

Yes, unless I'm trying to alter a suspended bait. I also try to stick to the same wire thickness, unless it is really necessary to go to a 2X or 3X.

GPS. It's a moot point though, as I'm pretty sure all SI units already have GPS by default.

I color in each depth contour that's important to me. The shades get darker as I go deeper. The rest of it is all way point clusters on my GPS.

I don't use anything different, tacle wise with these hooks. If you are using a typical drop shot plastic, like a GYCB Shad Shape Worm or a Roboworm Original, all it takes ia a wrist snap set, with modern X-fast drop shot rods. The wire is so light, you DO NOT want to whale on the hookset, because you will open the hook.

Very few debates, LOL.

Do you really believe that a 6"+ swimbait is a numbers bait?

sweet!