J Francho

It needs to be mounted so it site level, below the hull.

But if you are going to keep the fish, legally, for what ever purpose, then you can just bonk them on the head, and toss them unceremoniously in a cooler with some ice. Makes perfect sense to me.....

I think you have a bad bearing.

Those are the ones! My "friend" that tested these has a vested interest. He was the conservation director for the NYBCFED. Pretty sure he had positive results from these.

My personal best smallmouth was caught in water that was 38° F.

My friend tested these "wallet" things that you put the whole bass in with good results. That might be the ultimate solution, but I can't remember the name, and they were expensive.

My point was that I'm still using a 30+ year old reel. Mine is a "33 Classic" which would date it back to the mid 80s. I know of a couple Daiwa Goldcasters that were mine that are still in service. The Omega line appears to be well made as well. I wouldn't put braid in any that aren't specifically designated by the manu as designed for braid.

I'm actually of the opinion that the clips are more damaging than the piercing style or running through the gill plate. I doubt there's any research that supports the new regulations being passed. My experience in aquaculture has shown that the small holes created heal quickly in otherwise healthy fish. However, irritation from a chunk of plastic rubbing the maxillary process could cause legions or sores, that take longer to heal, and prevent normal feeding. It's a moot argument that could go either way. In practice, I find livewell care and safe handling of caught fish - no boat flipping, Sure Life Catch and Release, Peroxide, good aeration and circulation, minimal time out of the water, etc. are the most important factors in reducing mortality. More important than how or which tags you are using. I'll say this, I've seen tons of guys mangle and injure their fish by NOT using tags. Chasing them around the well with an little net or bare hands, and the fish smashing into pipes, and well walls....So long as you have a plan, and can easily handle the fish with what ever you use, you're doing good in my book.

That's called twisting my words. I was speaking about WHAT I DO WITH THEM, not what you do with it. I still use my 33 to catch a bass or two to help new anglers see how to do it. This site is about teaching others how to fish, not trolling for insults.

Not too many of these here, though I still have a vintage 33 that I use for guests that don't really know how to fish. It works fine.

They aren't on the radar of any of the swimbait groups I know.

Braid is not recommended for use in old spincast reels. There's newer models out that are braid compatible.

Next thing you know, they'll outlaw hooks....

I've seen this. Usually some combination of the rod sitting bent for a long period of time and excessive heat. You could try to hang it, but I doubt that will work.

I degrease with Perfect Solution. There's none better that I've found.

Brush jig for grass and Arky style jig for timber.

Way easier than a car stereo system. You only need to put the fuses and connectors on the power supply. the transducer and cable are plug and play. You do not alter it at all.

I'd just keep it - it's tough as nails. Interesting thing, one my longest casting reels was a Daiwa Procaster that I bought on clearance for $40. No, it didn't cast 1/8 oz. baits, but like for like, it would wing a topwater a mile, and that's what I used it for.

Bearing upgrades may make it seem like it's "faster" on the bench, but the reality is, you're going to turn on some brakes, adjust the spool tension, and any net gains are minimal. The Lexa doesn't really have a spool that will exploit the combination of bearings upgrades, and light baits. That's what rippin is getting at. If the bearings are shot, by all means, put good ones in. But you sound determined to upgrade them anyway.

If it were me, I'd just flush the bearings, and pop Carbontex washers in there. Fill out the order with grease, oil, and tools.

I think he's getting dragged over the coals by an installer. I bought water proof crimper and connection kit for around $40. Had everything and anything I've needed for installing graphs. The only thing I've had to buy are the inline fuses. I think I got it at West Marine, or something similar. I put them in kayaks, rowboats, bass boats, even made a portable "to go" unit for rental boats. It's actually easier to install an upgrade than a new one from stick - you can use the old wires to snake the new ones through the hull.

What are the lighted switches for?

<drops mic>

Smooth Drags has all the stuff you need to swap them out - tools, oil, bearing kits. Their ABEC 7 hybrids are reasonably priced, and perform well. While you're at it, replace your drag with Carbontex. This is an upgrade that reaps benefits far and above a bearing replacement. Give Dawn a call, she'll set you up. They're a great family company to work with.

Gator Grip makes mounting sleeves. Might be less trouble, though I always like the DIY solutions. https://www.gatorgrip.com/shop/listing/6