J Francho

The Ray equipped boats I was in predated the Torqueedos. I see they have their 10.0 out - around 20hp, only $8K. That's about twice a gas powered engine. Prices are definitely coming down.

Ray is the one! Thanks @fishnkamp! http://www.rayeo.com/

Not a Torqueedo. They haven't released their higher HP equivalent outboard yet, and this did not run on a self contained lithium battery. They had them on the boats down at the Kingfisher Society.

You want to learn this knot if you want to drop shot. Otherwise, skip the technique altogether. Always remember, if you're cinching the knot down by pulling the main line, you're doing it wrong. If your main line to the hook is crimped or curly, you did it wrong. This is VERY important with lighter lines, and finesse terminal rigs. Lear to tie a good Palomar knot, and you are way ahead of many other anglers.

You want to get rid of arguing, and infighting? Less meetings, smooth events. That's always been the winning formula, from my experience.

These boats are powered by electric motor on the stern, and a typical bow mounted trolling motor. All the controls are the same as a gas motor, though top speed is probably around 10 mph. I can't remember the name of the maker. Should be able to google it.

Wood + drop shot rig = problems. It's not the right tool for the job.

I can make both casts with any rod and reel. They're just a type of cast. In fact, when drop shotting, I often pitch the rig since it's easier to make a short cast with the long terminal rig.

They have too many levels. Look at Bionic Blades if you liked the Extreme. Very similar, and decent sticks for the money.

I generally like to give a new angler a moving bait. I don't want them bored, or worried about setting the hook. Once they've become accustomed to feeling a fish on the line, and getting back to the boat, then I start with feel baits.

You can add an Owner CPS to most hooks. http://www.ownerhooks.com/accessories.htm

Based on the date, you will likely be fishing for green fish, summer patterns. Get proficient with frogs, t-rigs, and flipping in water willow. No need to hire a guide, since you will have no input on locations. Even then, many locations throughout the lake mirror each other. Throw all this out the window if weather forces you to fish the river, or if your pro wants gamble and run out to Shackelton looking for smallmouths. As far as just hiring a guide - anyone with local knowledge will likely be fishing the open.

I use mod-fast for my x-heavy conditions. I want the full rod to load immediately during the hook set, so I can "lift & separate" the bass from cover. Don't mistake "mod-fast" for whippy or slow. generally, most rods designed for this (the TCS included, as I have a couple) fall into this category. Here's a review of the Mat Daddy: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/mat-daddy-helios-review.html

That's the ONLY way I could ever get into my Xpress, even with the assist bars on either side of the seats. The shape of the hull made it very difficult. My Bullet was easier, since it sat so low in the water, and there was a grab bar on the port side, by the passenger seat.

High water - go upstream.

Powerbait dough works well. If the flow is crazy, you might want to look up float rigs, but my bet is bottom bouncing will be fine. One tip, I put split shot into parachute cord, with the core removed and the ends sealed with a lighter to make a slinky weight. I use one of those 3-way snaps to attach the weight to the line around 18" above the hook. It's mush less apt to hang up. Yes to the fluoro leader - I use 4-10#, depending on the situation, but 6# is most usual. Here's a link to the float rigs: http://raventackle.com/shotting_patterns.php Here's the gist of the bottom rig:

#3 seems giant to me. I use #8 to #12 for trout that often surpass the DD mark. Raven tackle makes a good hook.

Yep, and it was green. I'll take a pic of the BPS catalog I have from 1994.

I use a micro screw driver. Jam it in between, and twist to spread the split ring.

There are four. The B series was after the original Curado Bantam 200.

Large probably, though it looks like that is only crimp on weights. They have other Texas Rig products. Hard to find, but looks pretty cool.

That dog will hunt. Congrats!

Get a Carbontex replacement drag washer from Smooth Drags, and you'll never have to replace one again.

The original came out in 1994. It was $89.99, and the original Citica was $79.99. I recall agonizing over the $10 difference. Bought a Curado, wasn't really my cup of tea (still a very nice reel), settled on a Daiwa Procaster for $99.99. It had a braking system that better suited my casting style. It's funny how close these price points were back then. The top end reels were all under $125. Shortly after, Shimano debuted the Calcutta, and I think I marveled at it's $199.99 price tag, thinking I'd never spend that much on a reel. I know a couple of Elite pros that still use the Curado B series, which to me is when that reel came into it's own.

Structure underneath current creates current breaks. Anyone that has spent time stream fishing for trout will have learned to "read" the water. What the water does on the surface gives you clues to what's below the surface. For instance, a deep ledge - a major fish holding feature, regardless of species, can be traced in current by seeing the seam created at the surface. Again, this all relates to structure, though not commonly mentioned since we *usually* fish for largemouth where there is very little current. Smallies, in my experience can be a bit different. They are less territorial, and while bound to structural patterns, a little more fickle in their location, from day to day. Smallie hotspots come and go, but like Catt's example above, good largemouth spots always seem to have some fish.