J Francho

I'm thinking if you apply a bit of heat, it should slide out from under the wraps, unless they're too tight. Mike Or Gary might have a better idea on this. I know they've both stripped rods down. @.ghoti. @Delaware Valley Tackle

I totally agree.

This scam has been all over the internet for at least two or three years.

They drop the water there for winter to kill the zebra mussels.

Yes, especially the multi-washer stack drags. I run them dry in all my spinning setups because up here I might be fishing in sub freezing temps. Wet, lubed lightly with either Shimano Star Drag grease, or Cal's Drag Grease is the best setup for the smoothest, maintenance free setup. Your drag will NEVER stick again. I would address the issue privately with them. I'm sure they'll make it right. I would.

You can do a quad screen with whatever screens you want to define in it. I like run half screen DI, quarter DI or Chirp, quarter GPS, zoomed in.

So far I've been happy with quite a few of their offerings. Been running a couple setups for over two seasons.

Any knot with fluoro, or any other nylon, copoly, etc. Never cinch a knot by pulling the main. You might get away with it for a time, but it will eventually fail on you.

No clue on that one - don't do too much customizing to Lew's, other than handle swaps. I only though of the fly line backer because it's flat, which if spooled properly inhibits digging. Just an idea - never personally tested it out, though it works well on my centrepin reels.

Tom @WRB, I thought Dacron would eventually rot if left wet. Hence those old line drying spools you see in antique fishing collections. Wouldn't a fused, flat Spectra/Dyneema backing line for fly reels be better? They're light and designed just for this task.

24 nymphs, and a box - $16. Double that amount for $30. http://www.wildwaterflyfishing.com/nymph-assortment-24-flies-with-small-fly-box/

There's your problem. You're doing it wrong. DO NOT EVER EVER EVER cinch a fluorocarbon knot by pulling on the main line. It is a surefire way to get a knot to fail. See the animated version of this knot to snell correctly. The last step, you pull on the TAG END to cinch. http://www.animatedknots.com/snell/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.png&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint

Sounds like it was improperly installed, or something else isn't right.

That top seat reminds me of the seat on my old Berkley Series One Accuflex.

Jay is a member here.

Most of the recommendations I see here are for light lures. Now, this may mean light line too, but what I'm reading in the OP is not really light stuff. The main thing you want with light line is a shallow spool. There are tons of options where a super shallow after market spool would suit your purposes.

Nice fish!

You generally get 30-50% more max power with a dry set up. More important is the transition from grip to slip in the stack. There is no "sticking and then breaking loose." It's very smooth, wet or dry. Personally, I wouldn't need more than 8 lbs. on a 4 power rod. Doesn't mean a Carbontex upgrade is wasted, for the other reasons listed above.

Both.

Just buy it from the source: http://www.thefishgrip.net/shop/shop_the_fish_grip_jr.php#.WAEXs8m52g0 The inventor is a good guy.

Good looking steelhead!

Same as my topwater plug rod - a 6'2" medium power, XXfast rod with a short rear grip. I've used numerous reels with different IPTs. What matters most is comfort. P-Line CXX 10# for line.

Seasonal sponsor. No, I hadn't ordered yet, but intend to shortly.

The top two have that awesome bill for rocks.

Those Rebel Craws look custom painted. They're a great bait! These were one of my primary baits that I trolled for smallmouth on Lake Ontario. They're equally effective on deep, rocky shoals. Something about that lip dessign really allows it to dig in, at decent speeds.