J Francho

P-line fluoro leader works fine for me. This fish was caught using 4# leader:

Sun block for his dome, lol.

Senor Speedbead, I presume.

My condolences.... J/K! Congrats!

Luther's Rigging Bullet is what you want to use. http://www.yakattack.us/index.html

There should be a button there:

I use an Avid AVC70MHM. I don't feel like I need another 11", though many swear it gives them extra distance. I'm not seeing it.

I believe this was specifically for football headed jigs, which can be problematic, due to the large size of the head.

I honestly don't notice. It never really was an issue. I still use both for just about anything, though lefty is the most efficient for pitching and flipping.

I have a lot of both medium and medium heavy. Many baits are simply too light to be thrown on medium heavy gear.

Talking about it is over. Thankfully, lol. I destroyed them in the spring with it. I expect the same in the fall.

50# braid or 12-15# copolymer. I like Power Pro braid and P-Line CXX copolymer.

I own several Diawa reels. They are my preference, though I also own several Shimano and Pinnacle, as well. I don't own any of the brands you mentioned. Probably won't either. Daiwa have reels at price points across the board, same as other companies. Once you stray away from Walmart shelves, and into a specialty store like TW, you're going to find completely different priced products and quality level. Try comparing golf clubs or cooking supplies from Walmart, as compared to a store that specializes in that stuff.

Hand them out to kids on Halloween when you run out of candy.

I got pics. =P

What you probably can't tell in that image is that the parts are all broken into sub assemblies. I use a muffin pan to keep these sub assemblies sorted, and in order. Last part off is the first part back on. That was a Chronarch above, here is a Daiwa Big Bait Special in a pan, clean and ready for reassembly:

You can remove a metal shield, but I don't recommend it. Seal must be removed, since you want the oil to penetrate the cage and ball bearings, as well as the inner races. Any incidental oil on the outside of the races will aid in easy removal and installation. Here's a cutaway so you can see the inner workings:

Just watched the videos....meh. That's a start, but it's not a professional clean, just regular maintenance. A pro cleaning looks like this in the middle of the process. Every single part disassembled and completely degreased.

Tooth Brush, Q-tips, 10mm - thanks. Flying by the seat of my pants posting For e-clips, get a big, clear plastic bag - a giant Ziploc brand works well - and pop them off inside. They won't fly far that way.

I think you forgot that the lefty Chronarchs have a pink pinion yoke now. Huge difference in performance, lol.

A #1 and #0 Phillips head. T-pin with a 90° bend in the tip. Micro flat head screw driver. I think it's an 8mm nut driver (someone help me confirm that one!). Needle oiler, and Bantam Oil. Shimano Star Drag Grease and a 1/4" paint brush with the bristles trimmed short. Small glass jars for acetone and/or alcohol to clean the bearings. Baby food or salsa dip jars work well. Muffin pan for the parts. Paper towels. Chemical resistant gloves. Degreaser like Perfect Soilution. Dish soap - Dawn or Palmolive works great. Micro fiber towel for drying the parts. Tweezers. Small set of smooth surfaced pliers. Anything else I missed?

This rod will work fine.... 3/8 oz. tungsten, 4/0 Owner Wide Gap Plus, Rage Craw, 12# CXX:

20# for spinning, 50# for casting.

You have to remove the seals or the oil won't penetrate. They are seals, not shields.

I have one rod that I'd throw cranks and t-rigged plastics. Saint Croix LTBC70MF "Teaser." However, this is for light, finesse t-rigs, and the cranks I use with it are usually shallow square bills or traps. The fast tip aids in snapping treble hooks off weeds, but the medium power is very forgiving.