Nitro 882

I know I have been disappointed in the past when following one of these "problem" threads and no resolution, if any, is reported. That said, I'd like to report that my "problem" is resolved and had nothing to do with aluminum props or loose nuts on my battery terminal. Apparently, when repowering an old boat, the new motor electrical harness is plugged in to the old boats harness with a necessary adapter. It seems that some wires in my boats harness were defective and this resulted in severely distorted signals that were misinterpreted and resulted in the varied alarm and "Guardian" events I experienced. The dealer took my unit to the lake and connected the motor harness to a test harness (referred to as "boat in a box") and my new motor, according to the technician, ran flawlessly over an extended period on the water. As yet, I haven't had that experience, but I will, hopefully, in a couple of days after they have replaced my old harness. This is at an additional cost of $850 which includes installation, new ignition switch and new tachometer. THE END------hopefully.

Another response from someone who didn't understand but wants to give advice. I didn't ask for diagnosis of an engine problem. The alarms that I experienced immediately after launching for the first time were, according to the dealer, caused by the new Mercury 4 blade Aluminum prop. I'll repeat, for those that don't read or comprehend, this is the same style prop I had used for years. I wanted whatever the problem was with my new motor fixed quickly and I questioned the claim that the prop was the problem. It was proven not to be the problem as I installed a S.S. prop and ran the unit with exactly the same result. Therefore, wasting time that could have been spent on the real issue. So, your snide remark about me swallowing my pride and buying a S.S. prop was a sample of the bad advice that makes it a "fools errand" to look for answers on the internet. I found a "knowledgeable prop professional", MERCURY MARINE, who touts their Spitfire 4 blade aluminum props as designed for use on "high-performance engines up to 300hp." As to your advice that "if your dealer doesn't fix the problem, it's time to move on." Thanks, I would have never thought of that. Meanwhile, my "bullet proof" new engine is in the shop. Finally, people teach me how to treat them.

Bought a Transom Tote for my new Pro XS. It is essentially the same design as Moter Toter and the like. Just a heads up, it won't work as the new mercs have a larger single piston design for trimming/raising the motor and not the twin pistons the toters require for mounting.

Thanks for all the support.

Don't let the garage space limit you. My Nitro NX882 has been stored outside in New England weather for 21 years. Get a quality boat cover and your all set. Also, if my boat is at home , the on-board charger is plugged in Ya gotta think outside the garage.😀

I said I never exceeded 3000 rpm. If you really read the post you didn't understand it.

I have a 2005 Nitro nx 882 bought new in 2004. 150 hp XR6. The only regret I have EVER had is when it got choppy my 18' 2" rig had a tough time. If I were to do it again (I'm 80 so not likely) it would be 19' or more. The seemingly small difference is remarkable when the " white caps" show up. This is another casse where " bigger is better". I don't care what brand. Best of luck with your 31st boat. 😉

Okay, picked up my boat, went to the lake and changed to a S.S. 23 pitch prop. Launched the boat, let the motor warm up and tried to get it on plane. Continuous beep started almost immediately. Motor acted like it was in guardian mode right away. Shut it down, restarted, throttled up to get on plane and, again, immediate alarm but this time intermittent (6 beeps). As I said earlier, this blaming the 4 blade aluminum prop I've been running flawlessly for years was ***. I left the boat with the dealer and told them I didn't want it back until they took it to the lake and ran it without alarms going off. I'm getting a real bad feeling about this motor that is going to take a lot to shake. The dealer is doing the same thing many on here are doing---guessing. I spent 15k to have a reliable motor that I could have confidence in and wouldn't strand my 80-year-old ass out in the middle of the Kissimmee Chain this winter. It is going to take many trouble-free outings to convince myself that this motor is reliable. If I could have a do-over, I wouldn't have made the purchase. If I threw a bit of money at my old XR6, I'm sure I could have gotten her to take me to the end my line. Just wanted the surety that apparently money can't buy.

When I asked Mercury Marine about the difference in torque value between my old XR6 and the new Pro XS they don't have a specific value in foot/lbs like we get when we "dyno" a car engine. They talk about where in the acceleration curve the torque is delivered. The following is directly from Mercury. "Bottom Line: If you want maximum initial acceleration and quick hole shots the XR6's high low-end torque is an advantage. If you prefer smooth, consistent power and better control at (wait for it) wide open throttle, the Pro XS's torque delivery and EFI tuning make it a strong choice." All this talk about flexing and catastrophic blade slinging refers to the WOT gang who screw around with props trying to eke out another 1/2 mph on the GPS at 5500/6000 rpm. My 'bottom line'---from what I've gleaned through my researching this aluminum vs S.S. issue, if aluminum was going to pose a problem, it would have done so on the XR6 that I ran for the last 10 years with an aluminum prop. Just for clarity sake, I didn't say that drivetrain protection was a factor in my preference for the aluminum prop. I try to steer around hard stuff. With all the talk about flexing, and where flexing is not an issue at the rpm's that I typically run, it occurs to me that, in the event of a run-in with 'hard stuff' aluminum would take some of the stress off of the more rigid drive line components. Just t to make lemonade out of lemons. Here's the kicker. This all started when I put my new motor equipped with a new Mercury 4 blade prop in for the first time. I ran at headway speed for a while to be sure the engine was properly warmed up and the put her up on plane. I never exceeded 3000rpm and within just a few minutes an alarm went off. Shut down, spent the appropriate time cursing, and started up again. Same result. An alarm shortly after running at around 3000rpm. Called the dealer (a bunch of things under my breath) and arranged to come in to hook up to his computer for a diagnosis. His claim is that the aluminum prop was flexing causing the engine to "over-rev" creating the alarm. I'm picking the boat/motor up this morning. I'm going to install one of my S.S. props and I'm going to the lake. I hope to hell I'm wrong, but my bet is that the alarm is going to sound again and I'll be back to the dealer before noon, really ticked, to deal with whatever the real issue is. It just dawned on me, a couple times when I was playing with the trim, I got too high and the prop broke loose. I'll bet that is what the ECU recorded as an over-rev event. Anyway, I spent $15K to have a dependable motor and not waste more of the summer dragging my boat to and from the shop. Help me, Lord.

I had to go back and read my post again because, so far, the responses don't come close to answering my simple query. For my own reasons, after over 60 years of owning/operating outboards, I prefer a 4 blade aluminum prop. I was simply looking for some legit reason why I'm being told I can't run one on my new Pro XS. The prop I intended to put on the new motor is not a "retread". It's a new Mercury Spitfire that is, according to Merc, suitable for high-performance motors up to 300 hp. I'm not trying to determine the best prop for me. I am settled on a 4 blade aluminum 14"/21 pitch, specifically, based on over 10 years running one on my Merc XR6. I don't consider a S.S. prop to be an upgrade. They provide more top end speed and are "prettier" but those attributes are of no importance to me. As I've said before (tongue in cheek) I can't even spell WOT. Also, I'm capable of "shopping around" and if/when it becomes imperative that I equip my motor with a Stainless prop, I will do so. I would just like to understand why. Thanks for the effort but I still have questions and, it seems, I'll have to look elsewhere for an answer. Best wishes PS I have 3 S.S Tempest 23 pitch props in my shop. One from my original XR6, a spare I bought cheap at a garage sale (for a backup), and one given to me by a friend who sold his boat and had an extra laying around. '

Based on what I had read about props I decided, many years ago, to try a 4 blade prop on my Nitro NX 882 w/ Merc 150 hp XR6. I bought a 4 blade aluminum prop 14" 23 pitch because it was considerably less expensive than Stainless Steel. The aluminum prop did everything I was looking for. Better hole shot, more "bite" so better control in rough water conditions. Another potential benefit, I thought, was that the softer aluminum prop would bend if a hard object was struck and protect other lower unit components from damage potentially. Kind of a "shear pin" effect. Speed is not an issue as I rarely approach 4000 rpm. I can't even spell "WOT". I just repowered with a new 150hp Merc Pro XS and I am told that I can't run an aluminum prop, 3 or 4 blade, on my new motor. The reason is said to be that the Pro XS develops a lot more torque than my old XR6 and the aluminum prop would distort under load and cause the motor to "over rev". I can't get this to make sense other than the guy wants to sell me a $1000 s.s. prop. I've been running a 4 blade aluminum on my old XR6 for over 10 years with absolutely no issues and all the benefits I described earlier. The aluminum props I have purchased all state that they are suitable for use on outboards up to 300hp. I never felt the need to spend the additional $800 or so because the performance of the aluminum prop was excellent. I am a believer in the 4 blade , for my purposes, and I will spend the money for s.s. if necessary. Am I getting B.S. or is there validity in what I'm being told? Thanks in advance.

I've learned over the years that catching fish is easy, it's finding the fish that's difficult. As has been said, keep movin. Read up on where fish are supposed to be at different times of the year where you're located and focus on those areas. "Most fisherman fish their whole lives and never realize it wasn't really the fish they were after." Enjoy the process.

Or I'll trade two 3 blade props for a 4 blade s.s. prop (21 or 22 pitch)

I have accumulated 3 Tempest Plus props, all 23p. They are all in great condition, like new I would say. I've been running a 4 blade prop for more than 10 years now so none of these props has been used much, Had 2 given to me by friends who had them as spares and sold their boats. I'd like to trade one for a 21 pitch if anyone is interested. I've read that the 23 pitch is for higher speed, which is not my goal. Let me know if this is of any interest to anyone.

Thank you "kschultz76". That is the "sound of reason" I was needing. All the courteous responses leaned in this direction, but your articulation hit home. Thanks to all. I be sportin a new ProXS soon. 😊

I started a thread recently about repowering my Nitro NX882 with a 150hp Pro XS. I've asked for installed price/availability and will likely pull the trigger. One slight obstacle is my old motor has no value to the shop I'm dealing with, and I don't want it in my back yard next to the wood pile. I remember, a couple years ago, I was talking to my local Bass Pro guys about repowering and they, up front, were adamant about it being my responsibility to get rid of my old motor. At least the guy I'm buying from said he would dispose of my old motor but he can't give me anything for it. My motor can be made to run again but the compression test indicates it is marginally acceptable. All cylinders are lower than ideal and 2 of them are lower than the rest. Even I know that's an indicator of unreliability and certain near-term issues. At my age, I don't want to struggle to find a tow or spend the night on Lake Toho with the gators. My cheap ass nature makes it hard to simply junk the old girl. Seems like a very disrespectful way to treat the old girl who gave me 21 years of good service. I'm looking for some input to help me turn loose and repower. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the helpful commentary. You've gotten me excited about the possibility of a new motor to compliment my newly recarpeted and detailed Nitro. At my age, 80 in September, it probably doesn't make sense from a purely economic standpoint. I have no illusions of me getting another 20 years of performance as I did with my current XR6. However, my son and fishing partner will surely experience and enjoy the performance and dependability this new technology will deliver for years to come. Also, and importantly, despite certain claims of the current administration destroying the economy, my stock portfolio is getting nearly as fat as me. 😀

Thans for the replies so far. I have a Nitro NX882 single console (18' 2") which is rated for 175 HP. I can't even spell WOT so I can't remember, in the last 20 years, ever feeling like I needed more power. I have wished for more length (keep it clean boys and girls) when on "big water" and the white caps show up but power has never been an issue. I generally run between 3000/3500 RPM which results in about 30/35 mph. When I first got the rig, I was on Lake Sebago in Maine, early in the morning and the lake was like glass. As with any of us with any new truck, car motorcycle, or boat I wanted to see just what she had. Just me in the boat, half a tank (20 gallons) of gas and before I had collected 22 rods/reels and half of the inventory from the local BPS, I gradually nudged the throttle forward until I got just at 60 mph. I think she still had a slight bit more, but I didn't. Started to chine walk a little, which I had not experienced before or since, and it was blowing in my face so hard I had to turn my head to catch my breath. I now know what she's got if I need it but would rather cruise along at a comfortable (for me) speed as opposed to the white knuckle, controlled crash experience I had back on Sebago. When I look in the mirror, I'm reminded of a saying the airmen had in WWII. "There are old pilots and there are bold pilots but there are no old/bold pilots. ☺️ By the way, I have never seen many 175 hp's. Not saying it's a fact but I had gotten the impression that a 175 was just a tricked out 150 with souped up carburetion and the like. In my mind that would just put more strain/demand on components designed for delivering 150 HP. In any case, I understand the logic of having more power than you really need in reserve but I'8ve grown comfortable with 150 horses. Thanks again for your responses.

Hi guys. Strongly considering replacing my 2004 Merc XR6 (150 hp). I have been very happy with the performance over the 21 years I have owned it but, like me, age is taking its toll and the old girl is just not as reliable as I need. Seems I spend more and more time wrenching on her and this past annual Florida fishing vacation, I had to be towed 5 miles on Lake Toho to Southport. As I will be a young 80 this September, I plan on heading to Florida again next January and want to have as much reliability as I can muster. Obviously, it's been a long time since I was in the market and I'd like to hear some suggestions from those of you who have sampled some of the new Mercury technology. Mercury has earned my loyalty so only interested `in Merc at 150 HP. I'm gonna start researching what's available on my own but appreciate real life experience. Look forward to hearing from you and thanks in advance.

Thank you. You are absolutely right about any knife being able to be sharpened enough for the kitchen. I need to "hone" my sharpening skills (get it) instead of buying more knives. The voice of reason wins again. Salute to you.

Hi folks. My wife has been going down hill at 78 and I've taken over her former household duties including cooking our meals. I've grown to really enjoy cooking and meal prep and, if I do say so myself, I've gotten pretty good at it. We have an old "block" of assorted kitchen knives that were not very expensive and they perform as such. I once worked for a meat packing plant and learned the immense value of a sharp knife. I also learned that the more carbon steel used in the blade, the sharper you could get it and the easier it was to maintain the edge. They would tend to not stay bright and shiny like stainless steel knives but I'm looking for sharpness, not pretty. There was an old saying amongst the meat cutters that "a sharp knife will never cut you." Meaning that the less force you needed to apply to make your cuts, the less likely you would slip and have an accidental self-inflicted stab wound. Considering the above, some of you must have a "go to" kitchen knife that is versatile and maintains a sharp edge with a normal amount of attention. I'm not looking for a set of knives but rather a good utility knife. As with any search, my head is spinning with the number of options that come up and, no matter how I try to specify what I'm looking for, all I get is offerings for anything resembling a knife. Any guidance would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

I found a place to get whatever Mercury service manual you need. Just send an email to: publications.brunswick.com Give the serial # of your engine and a young lady named Lauri will give you instructions on how to make your purchase. My Merc XR6 manual cost $114 + freight. It arrived yesterday and is over 2 inches thick with everything you need to know to service your engine. The ability to fix your own boat problems will keep you on the water instead of waiting weeks for a shop to be able to get you in for service/repair. Example, my motorcycle has 180,000 miles on it and has NEVER been back to the shop. Outdoor toys seem to always break down when the weather starts to get nice.

Hey guys, I need the manual listed above. I'm confused by on-line offerings that claim to cover engines from 2 hp to 300 hp inclusive. It doesn't seem possible to effectively cover that many engines in one manual. By example, the manual for my specific motorcycle is over 500 pages. How can I obtain a manual specific to my Merc XR6?

I have an old Merc XR 6 150hp (carbureted) When my engine did the same thing, it turned out to be a bad starter, New starter fixed the problem. The click you hear is the starter solenoid activating or delivering voltage to engage the starter. "It slowly cranked" would be another hint at starter issues. I hope your problem can be fixed as readily as mine was.

Okay guys. Thanks for the responses, however, I wasn't looking for suggestions on adhesives/sealants. I'll soon be 80 and have owned boats for 60 years and I'm aware of a bunch of suitable products that will do the job. Also, at 80, I've got a shop full of products acquired over time that I would like to find uses for. Hence, my post specifically asked if anyone had successfully used the EZ Seal product to repair a keel guard.