mstpierre

I will try adjusting the screw but I have read a lot of people still have problems. Has anyone had any experience with the Troll Perfect.

Yes, at levels 4 or 5 the torque will turn the motor if you don't have your foot FIRMLY planted on the pedal. Its even worse in the wind/ rough water.

I have a minn kota edge 70 and in rough water or under high speeds, the motor will turn itself around on its own. I know this happens to a lot of people but can't seem to find a solution. I saw a product called perfecttroll but have not heard of anyone using it. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to remedy this? Thanks a lot.

I just went through this as well. I looked at a lot of different motors and did end up getting the edge 70. BPS has a lot of good reviews on this motor. I bought mine two weeks ago and it was 499.00 at amazon.com with free shipping. Couple that with the 70.00 rebate thru Minn Kota and its a tough deal to beat.

This looks great and as you said, the original bracket doesn't swivel either. Can you tell me where in the Home Depot one might find the Gimble bracket? I have never seen these there and would like to find one and build one of these. Thanks.

Well, I am glad we got that response out of the way. I knew it was coming. Does anyone have any helpful advice?

I have a 93 Stratos 274fs. I fish from the front of the boat and am at a loss for what to do with the rods I am not using. I am desperate for ideas of solutions to the rod storage be it commercial or home made. Does anyone have any suggestions at all? What are you all doing with the rods on your fish and ski boats? I know this is a downfall to fish/ski boats but there are a lot of smart people here and I am sure someone has a solution. Thanks a lot.

So, when I take the boat out with the original prop out if the max rpm trimmed up is 5500 then I should be ok. If it still pushes up over the 5500 then I need to go larger? Does the size 13 1/4 vs 13 3/4 matter? Would a cupped propeller make a difference? No one has mentioned what effect if any a hydrofoil would make.

I spoke with the mechanic and they said that the boat does pop out of the water better with the smaller propeller. I went ou ton the lake and with the motor trimmed down all the way the boat is right at 5500 rpm with the smaller prop. As I trim it up and get more speed, the rpm's increased closer and closer to 6000. I didn't go much farther. I do think the boat preformed well but I am not comfortable running it at or above the max rpm. Should I put on the original 13 1/4 x 17 prop? If I do could I gain any hole shot from this prop by using a hydrofoil? This is really a mystery for me and I appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks a lot.

thanks. I went to the shop and thier technical manual states up to 6000 rpm. So I guess the repair manual splits the difference at 5500 rpm. I have seen it now with my own eyes, as stated above.

what would have been the original prop for this motor?

So I dug out the manual and you are correct. 5500 should be the max. Perhaps I should put the 13 1/4 x 17 back on to lower the rpm back down to that range. This is actually a new powerhead so I know the compression is fine. The engine may be a bit on the small side but it is what it is. Would a hydrofoil help get up on plane quicker at all? I got this boat for a fantastic price even after having to have the powerhead replaced. I would have preferred a 150 but I will have to make the best of what I have.

The dealer said optimum rpm is just under 6000 rpm per the manual. With the prop that they put on it for me to "try", it maxes out at 5900 rpm. They stated they feel this is ideal for this motor.

why is stainless so much better?

I have a 1993 stratos 274fs with a 115 Evinrude on it. The boat seems to preform best with a 13 3/4 x 15 prop on it. It came with a 13 1/4 x 17 on it and it seemed "overpropped" according to the mechanic. It runs great now. Is there any reason I should experiment with other sizes? He said the prop to buy would be $150. Is this the prop I should have or are there more affordable brands out there? Thanks a lot. I know very little about propellers so any info would help.

Thanks for all the info. My front deck is solid glass under the carpet so there is no way to remove the deck. The template I made looks like it will just fit but I would feel a lot better knowing someone had already attempted a tray in a boat like this.

Thanks for the advise. I did create a cardboard template based on the dimensions for the troll ez. I am not concerned about the seat post but I am concerned about the front livewell. I an not exactly sure how far forward it goes once it meets with the underside of the deck. The box would just fit between the front controls/step up and where it feels the livewell ends. Does anyone have any advise or experience with these situations or boats? Thanks.

I am definitely sold on purchasing a trolling motor tray to fit in my 1993 Stratos 274 fs. I have two questions though. 1) I am curious if all of the commercial trays available will fit the factory installed Evinrude trolling motor foot pedal(still working like new) and will also fit the newer pedals in the event I replace the existing motor. 2) Since there is no good way to view the structure under the front deck, does anyone have knowledge on whether or not there will be structural components in the way if I were to mount the tray front and center on the boat. It would be bad to buy the tray and when I cut the hole find a support member there. Thanks for the help and advise.

The only switch I have is a 12/24 switch for high and low power. Otherwise, there is no on off. The motor will work anytime the red button on the foot pedal is pressed.

I have a recently obtained a 1993 Stratos 274 F/S. The trolling motor that is mounted on it is an older evinrude that still works great. The only thing I am not crazy about is that it seems there is no way to have constant power from the footswitch as the new foot pedals have. In order to make the motor go I have to have my foot on the red button. Honestly, I get tired of standing on one leg all the time when its windy. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this or better deal with it( other than replacing the entire motor setup)? Thanks

Ok, thanks. Are these filters standard by the nipple size or ...? How do I know which inline filter to get and where to get it.

I have a 1992 Evinrude 115 OB on my boat I recently purchased. The owner has installed a fuel/water seperator, RACOR, that has a screw on filter and a clear bowl with a drain plug on the bottom. I have replaced the filter element on this filter so that is fine. My question is this: Betweeen the screw in filter and the engine is an inline fuel filter as well. Do I need this on here. I am fine with replacing it with a new one as they are all so cheap. What I am concerned with is how many filters the fuel can pass through before it filters too much and does not allow enough through or creates to much restriction. I just don't want to rob fuel or create too much restriction with redundant fuel filters. So... leave it or replace with a solid fuel line and eliminate inline filter? As always, thanks for all the advise.

I mounted it the way it was described so I have plenty of room to drop the bracket down a little if I need to. Ill try it where it is as it is close to the center or the transducer now but may be a little higher than half. If I need to, I can drop the whole thing down and then the transducer will have its centerline in line with the bottom of the hull. The instructions said the transducer should be level so I am surprised to hear the back should be a little lower than the front. I guess those that have working depth readings would know. Thanks for the help so far. Any other suggestions would be great in case this doesn't work either. In the event I do have to epoxy it, which I would love to avoid, I would want to do that in the area in front of the drain inside the hull as close to the center as possible...correct? I have heard horror stories about sensitivity loss etc. I hope it doesn't come to this.

I moved the transducer today. It is now just to the starboard side of the drain and is directly in line with a bunk. The bunk is about an inch in front of the transducer when tightened to the trailler. I have the bottom of the transducer even with the bottom of the hull. It is level though, not tilted to match the angle of the hull. I believe this is how it should be according to the instructions in order to create the most fluid flow of water. I'll have to try it out to see if this fixes it. Thanks for the advise.

I have installed a humminbird 595c per the instructions on my 1992 Stratos F/S. I the transducer mounted exactly where I am supposed to, the far right of the step up the underside of the hull. The unit works great except when I am under engine power. Once I start to go across the lake, I lose my depth reading and the bottom view. This bothers me since I would like to see what the depth is doing as I am going along. I have not found any good fixes for this in my research and I am hoping someone has the answer. Thanks very much.