retiredbosn

Tell him Congrats from an old retired (disabled on active duty) sailor. For those who have defended her, Liberty means something few others ever understand.

Catt, Do you run a lot of rivers? Check out this site for me and let me know what you think of this boat for a river runner. http://riverpro-boats.com/content/view/12/26/

The more research I do, the more I'm drawn to an inboard jet drive. From the videos I've seen, it seems that the drawbacks of lack of handling is pretty much solved. Also riverpro uses .190 pre-stressed aluminum for their hulls, with an option of an additional 1/4" plate in the center. As far as boat handling, I have the experience to run a boat through class four rapids, against the current. My body just can't take the pounding anymore. I will be using the boat's engine more to get back to the launch, I will float down, and can pick my path back, I'll get a good look at the ripples as I float through the first time. But the ability to run in 3-4 inches is a must. Does anyone have experience with an inboard jet drive?

For those wondering, Ebay does not call you for your financial information. I have sold motorcycles and cars on Ebay, the transactions went smoothly. Ebay does not hold anything in a trust account, and I was paid through paypal. This woman wanting redline's address and phone number is trying to steal his identity. Once "Ebay" calls and gets the financials she has everything she needs to steal his identity. The 3500 bucks would be nothing compared to the financial havoc she could make.

I'm a little confused. I'll be running a shallow river 90% of the time, with some small lakes thrown in. The ripples I need to pass through will actually get low enough in a drought situation that I have to get out of the boat and walk it through. I found the riverpro boats to be a realistic option but can't drop 25k on a boat that I know will get banged up. The old tracker pro team jets seem to be another option. Anyway I'm getting off track. With a tunnel hull and a prop can you actually raise the engine enough that the skeg will not be the first thing to hit the rocks? Seems that to raise the engine enough that the hull will hit first, the water intake for engine cooling will be out of the water. Or does the tunnel divert enough water to the intake that this is possible? Lowe is coming out with a tunnel hull on their roughneck series, you can get it either with a jet or a prop, hydraulic plates are an option. Please keep this thread going and provide your opinion.

Grew up casting right and retrieving left using spinning tackle. When I made the switch to baitcasters the only available locally was RH baitcasters, so that is what I used. I have always been aggrevated that I had to switch hands after the cast. I recently purchased a LH reel here to experiment, what I found is that due to the design of a baitcaster I need the handle in my right hand, and the rod in my left. The first fish I caught the rod spun in my hand and the reel ended up below the rod!! Don't ask me how I have no idea, I think it was because I was holding the handle and not palming the reel. Also I palm the reel when retrieving so I have to adjust my hands after the cast anyway, for me it is much easier to move the rod to my left and postition my right on the handle. Otherwise I find myself grabbing the rod in my left, moving my right up to palm the reel, and then my lft hand goes to the handle, actually wastes more movement and time. Growing up using spinning tackle I am so used to having the weight of the reel in my retrieving hand that I can not hold a trigger rod by the handle alone, the reel has to be in my hand. I tried casting while palming the reel, that doesn't work to well. For me it is much simpler to just cast right, palm left, and reel right. As far as why RH reels having the handle on the RH I think it goes back to the original design of the reels. BC used to have no free spool or antireverse, so when you set the hook you had to hold the handle still, and then back reel when the fish ran etc. Was easier with the strong hand. To me as well a spinning reel hangs under the rod, the center of gravity places the reel in its proper place, you have to hold a bc set up with the reel up, so whether you realize it or not you are balancing the rod with the hand that is on the handle. I guess it is fine motor skills, that my left hand doesn't possess without conscious thought. Those who think you miss bites because you are switching hands, are just wrong. I fish buzzbaits all the time, I get them on plane so fast I don't even think they get completely submerged. So for me the answer is to cast right reel right with BC and cast right reel left with spinning gear. Anyway I now have a LH baitcaster for sale cheap, look in the flea market.

I have posted a few questions here, you may remember that I'm looking to switch boats. I have a glass boat now, an old hydra sports, 110 Johnson, anyway I am going back to a tin boat. I enjoy fishing the river more than lake fishing and need an aluminum boat. The river I fish has numerous ripple runs, and I need a shallow draft boat, and one that can take a couple of knocks. Anyway I'm looking at boats and will be getting one as soon as I save the cash. In short in your opinion should I go with a tunnel hull, or regular modified v? Then which engine a jet or prop? Should I go with a tunnel and a prop, or a tunnel and a jet, or a regular hull and a jet? Thanks

Magnesium reels and saltwater do not mix, the corrosion once started can not be stopped. Was reading a reel's info the other day, a daiwa magnesium reel I believe, and the manufacturer definitely wrote to avoid saltwater. Beside I think before I went mg I would go with graphite, seems to me that mg would be more likely to flex than quality graphite would be, mg is a very soft metal.

Do a google for your reel, find a repair manual and take it apart. Once you have all those little screws, springs, gears and bearings out, clean it and put it back together. Most likely what will happen is you will take it apart loose a part, get confused or both, and end up sending it to a reel mech, and pay double. ReelMech, is one of our resident reelsmiths and offers a bassresource member discount. If you are not mechanically inclined you are better off sending it off to get it fixed. What model reel is it? BTW it sounds like you are describing the worm gear, you can clean it out the best you can, put a little lube on it and it should free it up so it will quit sticking.

Man I feel for ya, I know your pain, literally. There are others here with physical challenges as well. IMO what you need is a short rod, like 5 or 5'6", it will still be difficult but makes it somewhat easier. Another option is to learn how to roll cast, not as accurate but easier to do sitting down. Good luck.

either 6 or 8 pound Yo-zuri Hybrid, breaks at 12 diameter is .10 and the hybrid has the added benefit of light refractive properties of floro and is very hard for the fish to detect. Good luck, you will catch a few.

It took a while for me to get used to mine. I have three pros, set the mag brake higher than you would normally, and then set the tension to where the bait barely moves, I know it sounds like this setting will result in short casts, but trust me it doesn't. I posted last year about getting used to mine, with the above reference setting I was getting 150+ feet on a 5/8 ounce casting sinker. Also anything less than 3/8 of an ounce or so, and you will be sorely aggrevated with the reel. Through practice I can now use down to a 1/4 ounce with mine, but it isn't worth the hassle, I have other reels that are better for that.

I grew up fishing river smallies, they are addicting. Fall they should be heavily feeding on minnows and craws, if the craws are still active. 1/8 ounce jig head with a single tail grub, green pumpkin, or smoke, double tail grub in green pumpkin or a brown to imitate a craw. Throw up stream and reel it back, keep the single tail off of the bottom, bounce the double along the bottom. On the double's many times I'll texas rig them with a 1/4 ounce bullet weight, less hang ups, also a paca craw works well. Grub sizes four inch, another trick to try is if the fish are not hitting the above, take your double tail and rig it so that the tails are vertical, then fish it like a regular single tail grub. Good luck.

Welcome to the crazy world we call bass fishin. It is amazing how often a creature with the brain the size of a pea can make me feel like an idiot!! Feel for ya man, been there, just wanted to wish you luck, I have 0 experience on the west coast fishing, hopefully you will find a fishin buddy soon.

Removes memory, improves casting, helps eliminate birdsnests, I use it some, hardly ever on my 8 and 12 lbs that are on casting reels. Some on the one with 15lb, it isn't something that needs done continually, occassionally.

congrats

Also understand that a ML Casting rod is the equivalent of a M Spinning rod. After reading the last couple of replies I got the impression some were talking about a ML spinning and others a ML Casting.

What gear were you using spinning or bc, either way use some KVD conditioner, problem solved. On RW's recommendation I have switched to Yo-Zuri Hybrid, I use 8lb test on an EXT 05 series bait caster ML KVD rod, the refractivity of the Hybrid makes it harder for the fish to see. I have considered switching to 6lb, the diameter of 8 is .11 and 6 .10, when I purchased the line I could only find 8 so that I what I bought. This winter Bass Pro will have all kinds of great sales, I picked up my EXT for 40 bucks, and the rod was 59, pretty good deal in my book. I have completely switched to BC's for 99% of my fishing, I found that a ML BC set up is the equivalent of a M Spinning set up. Good luck. PS keep an eye on the flea market there are always good deals there.

I thought I destroyed all the old photos of my first boat.

The guy states that the table in the gazebo has a trolling motor under it and the table has a fish finder permantly mounted as well. Supposedly from somewhere in GA I was going to build the Gazebo on the edge of my dock down by the lake but I thought I might just as well build the deck with floats on it and I can then take it out fishing too...It has 15,000# capacity. The deck is 18ft x 18ft with 12 plastic foam filled dock floats that are 4ft x 4ft by 18 inches high and the Gazebo is 10 ft. Hexagon with a table and chairs. Inside, under the table is my trolling motor so I can take it out to my favorite fishing hole.. The trolling motor is remote controlled wireless so I can be fishing outside and operate the motor. On the top of the table I have a LOWRANCE Fish-Finder with depth sounding sonar's and temp gauge. I have 2 electric winches with 40# anchors. I have also built in a water pump so I can clean the fish right on the spot. Now I can relax and fish while my wife can sit, watch TV and relax.

I think one of the most important things to remember when switching from streams (trout in particularly) to lakes and LMB, is to remember that it is almost impossible to go to big. I've caught several 7-10 inch bass on 10" worms!!!! IMO one of the easiest techniques to learn is the texas rigged worm, throw it out let it fall and slowly bring back imparting some action as the worm drags the bottom. Rattl Traps and Spinnerbaits are fairly easy to at least start catching fish with, cast and reel. Good Luck.

I think that is called a Super Spook

A question for those who remove the split ring. Why? I use snaps only, and if it has a split ring attach to it, if not to the tie. I am a CB novice, so please explain. Does it affect the action? Or is it a fouling issue?

Ok here is something that confuses me, to correctly work the bait all the experts advise crashing the bait into rocks, trees, brush, grass whatever. The idea is to get a deflection, or change direction of the bait, make a sound something. So if I have a crankbait that will not run true, but veers wildly, rolls on it's side etc. Why not use that bait, you are getting the same action without deflection off of an object? We have all seen bass hammering baitfish, sometimes they just ram the bait and the fish then can not swim upright, veers wildly, goes to the surface, nose dives down etc. All of a sudden a bass comes along and eats it. So why doesn't crankbaiting work this way? I've not caught a lot of fish with crankbaits, and by no means am I an expert at anything. I have however caught bass with crankbaits that were foulded, the front hook wrapped around the line for example. I also have a crankbait that will go every which way but straight, and have caught fish with it. Now that I know better, I don't throw it, unless the water is shallow and I have to retrieve it ultra slow, that way it does track straight. Can someone enlighten me on these factors? Do we fish only baits that track true because we are told to? Anyone else use a bait they can not tune with success?

This is where I get really confused. Seems to me that this type of action would imitate a wounded baitfish, and produce more strikes. :-?