Fishing Rhino

That wire feeds the ignition system, which fires the spark plugs. That's why the engine stops when you turn the key "off". There must be a wire beneath the console which comes from the engine's wiring harness. I'm old school. I remember tinkering with my cars when the ignition system consited of a coil, condenser, points and a distributor. Todays electronic ignitions have coil packs and many fire the appropriate spark plugs with a "crank trigger". There are sensors on the flywheel which tell each coil pack when to fire. As to the innards and components, it's beyond me. There should be some type of terminal block beneath the cowl. The wiring harness should hook up to them, and from the terminal block, the wires lead to the appropriate electrical units. It may be a plug connection vs a terminal block. The last time I fiddled with outboard wiring was forty plus years ago. My outboard had a terminal block. I had to get a schematic to make the proper connections. In either case, plug or block, there should be a wire at the end of the harness away from the engine, to activate the ignition. The individual wires should be color coded for each connection. But, you'll need a schematic to know which is which.

Fish slime does indeed carry toxins. It has happened to me a few times in my lobstering career. The first time necessitated a trip to the emergency room. That faint purple will get darker, and start travelling up your arm. Do not think about it. Get seen by a doctor immediately if not sooner. Here's some general advice for all. Should you get skewered by a fin, you can easily neutralize the toxins in fish slime. Soak the affected area in hot water for about twenty minutes to a half hour. Make sure to keep the water hot. The heat will neutralize or kill the toxins. Because you have an open wound, it may become infected, but it won't be infected by the fish slime. http://www2.worksafe...ture_wounds.pdf

How can you tell it's restricted? In any case, it's not a good idea to "modify" any engine to put out more power unless you also upgrade the reciprocating components to safely handle the horsepower increase. You can buy superchargers to put on your vehicle, car or pickup, that will substantially boost the horsepower. The question is, will the crank, rods, pistons, etc., safely handle the increased horsepower? They may initially handle it, but for how long?

My Wife Has Lost Her Mind! Well, now, then. We agree. All the evidence we need is that she married you. Reminds me of the joke about the guy who asked his wife how God could make someone as beautiful as her be so dumb. She told him God made her beautiful so he could love her, and He made her dumb so she could love him.

Did you try a jumper to the solenoid? You have two smaller wires to the solenoid. One should be a ground (negative), the other positive. Try jumping to the small positive wire. If that makes the starter turn, or the solenoid click, then your problem is between the solenoid and the power source at the switch. You'll need to find out which terminal on the switch is live only when the key is turned to the start position. That will be the terminal for the solenoid wire.

There is pain, and there is pain. Some is a warning to stop doing what you are doing. Other times, it's not. For the most part, I am very fortunate, and thankful, to be pain free. But when I have persistent pain, I see the appropriate doctor. In the case of persistent pain in the large joint of my thumb I went to see a doctor who specializes in hands. Took an xray and I have an arthritic condition in my thumb. He offered five options. The first was to ignore it, if I could. I would not be causing more damage to the thumb by using it. The options progressed from a cortisone shot to surgery. He suggested that I try glucosomine and chondroitin. Studies showed it to be helpful for some with elbow pain caused by arthritis. It has no bad side effects and I could stop taking it at any time. I tried it, and the joint pain went away. I also had a burning pain in my elbow when I would lift something like a pot of water and turn my arm to dump it. That also went away. That was four years ago and I have been pain free in the thumb joint and the elbow since. The main thing is to be sure that you are not causing damage by your activities. That's something only your doctor can tell you.

No Time for Sergeants - a classic A Face in the Crowd - another classic starring Andy as a two faced, manipulating sleazeball. The dramatic opposite of Sheriff Taylor. RIP

I was just looking at your photo again. I only see one power cable at the solenoid, and it's the cable between the solenoid and the starter. One of those two disconnected cables goes to the solenoid and the other should go to a grounding bolt. You'll need to determine which is the positive cable and which is the negative/ground cable. The positive cable should go to the solenoid.

The key switch, when turned to the start position sends power to the solenoid. You should have two heavy wires at the solenoid. It looks like you have a red wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter. There should be another heavy wire connected to the solenoid from the battery. When you turn the key, the solenoid is activated and closes the circuit from the battery to the starter, which activates the starter. You said the starter doesn't spin. You should hear the solenoid clicking when you turn the key. If you do not hear the solenoid clicking, then it is not getting power from the switch, or it is defective. You can test the starter easily. Leave your plugs disconnected and use jumper cables. Make sure the starter is grounded with one cable. Then, using the other jumper cable clip one end to the cable connecting the starter to the solenoid, at the solenoid, then touch it to the positive terminal on the battery. If the starter works, the problem is in the switch/solenoid circuit. I believe you said you have a tester. Make sure you have power to the key switch. Then have someone hold the key in the start position. You should have two live connectors at the switch, one for the ignition, the other to activate the starter. With the switch in the on position, you should have one live connector, which would go to the ignition. The only bugaboo is if there is a connector for accessories on the switch, then you'll have two hot connectors and a third when the key is turned to start. On my boat there is a separate toggle switch for accessories. Other boats may be different.

I'm assuming it's in neutral, or supposed to be, when you are turning the propeller. If that's the case, it sounds like the "dogs" on the "slider" (sorry, don't know the actual name) which engages the forward or reverse gears is not fully disengaged. There are probably five or six teeth that engage the gearcase. That's why you are hearing the five or six clicks per rotation. Try moving the control lever slightly toward the forward and reverse positions while someone is turning the prop. If it gets into a position where the clicking stops, you'll need to adjust the shifter cable. Don't know why changing the powerhead should affect the shifting adjustment. It's just a guess off the top of my head. There are many with more expertise than me on the forum, but it will give you something to try 'til you get a better reply.

Can I barrow it sometime?

I suggest you do not write up the contract. Anything that is ambiguous or unclear will be interpreted in favor of your employer. That is pretty much the standard by which contract disputes are handled. The person writing the contract has the responsibility to be precise and accurate with regard to what they put in the contract. I'm not a lawyer, but I do watch Judge Judy and Joe Brown from time to time.

He's so old, his family gets him a can of comressed air to blow out the candles.

This is for all you guys who torment us northerners in the winter. The ten day forecast for our area has high temps ranging from the mid seventies to the mid eighties, with low temps in the sixties.

Faulty key ignition/starter switch?

Try the usual places, ebay, amazon, etc. You might save fifteen or twenty bucks on a chip, but if you have to pay shipping, you'll be back to near retail price.

LOL. Are fishermen athletes? Golfers? Bowlers? Race car drivers? Here's my two cents. Being in shape will make you a better golfer, fisherman, bowler, and race car driver. But, fishing, bowling, golfing (if you ride a cart), and driving a race car contribute precious little to physical conditioning, in and of themselves. Definition of ATHLETE : a person who is trained or skilled in exercises, sports, or games requiring physical strength, agility, or stamina Having said that, any of these non-athletic sports can contribute to your physical, mental, and emotional well being. Unless you are doing something wrong, they should relieve stress, and be enjoyable.

Where do you hear all this "stuff"? I've never heard any of it, anywhere. I have read plenty on this site about fishermen complaining about jet skis, water skiers, tubers, etc., being rude and buzzing too close to fishermen. Shall we also consider the gripes about the party barges? Truth be told, there are rude fishermen, and there are rude recreational boaters. Neither side is a bunch of saints. Pond/lake rage exists just like road rage.

2012? Are we there yet? http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Cane-Poles-with-Kit/product/10201590/123613 Be sure to read the reviews.

Don't talk about the cord on trolling motors. Mine let go a couple of days ago and the motor has been used twenty times at the most. Same thing happened to my first Motorguide, but it lasted over a year. Anyhow, here's what you can do. Remove the broken line, and tie the broken ends together, using a fisherman's knot. Keep the tag ends as short as possible, but not so short that it will separate when you put a strain on it. Leave a half inch to an inch of cord hanging past the knot. Pull the knot tight, then wrap with electrical tape. Check where the line passes through the plastic guides, and smooth the guides with a fine round file. Finish smoothing with fine wet or dry sandpaper. Reinstall the line with the repaired end toward the handle, and the other end to the release mechanism. Pay attention to how the line is routed before removing it. You will end up with a cord that is about five inches shorter, but will still do the job. I'd suggest a polyester braided cord, rather than nylon. You may have to settle for white. Black is not readily available. You can get a replacement cord at any BPS, but you'll pay a lot more for it than you would for white at about any hardware store. It wouldn't hurt to spray the guides and line with silicone from time to time. It will reduce friction, and that will reduce the chaffing.

I went fishing with a buddy yesterday at a Cape Cod Pond. According to the book, the fishing should have been so so. Hardly a breath of air stirring, the third day of temps in the 90s. Water temp 73 degrees and up. Fished it the same as I had the week before when it was breezy with temps in the 60s, and the fishing was fantastic. Water temp was 63 - 65 degrees. The fishing was just as good yesterday, fishing the same places, the same baits, the same presentations. We caught a ton of smallmouth, many largemouth, a few large pickerel, some large yellow perch, one red ear sunfish, and one white perch.

Hey, that's how I started. The "twine" was kite string. A cork stopper with a lengthwise slice to the center of the cork allowed it to be slipped onto the line, and slipped along the line for fine tuning the distance between the bait and the bobber. For those thinking about using a bamboo, or better yet, calcutta rod listen to the voice of experience, as learned from my dad. When you tie the line to the tip of the rod, leave a tag end of several feet. Put a clove hitch around the pole every foot or so. Then, if a lunker happens to break the tip of the rod you won't lose the hook, line, sinker, and fish. With no reel, you'll never get a backlash or a bird's nest. You're not as likely to get your bait tangled in bushes and branches either.

Newer, bigger? That's not very specific. Newer and bigger mean anything from a jon boat to a full fledged bass boat. In the case of the latter, if you fish it on a regular basis, the cost of fuel will kill you. I'm not necessarily referring to the cost of fuel for the boat, it's getting it to and from the water that will quickly mount up. It's a forty-five minute drive to the pond I fish regularly. I use about two gallons per trip in my Nitro Z-8, and six to seven gallons towing the boat round trip. Round up to ten gallons per trip, and you're talking thirty-five bucks for the day. That does not include the normal wear and tear on the tow vechicle and the boat, or the cost of insurance. How much you zoom around in the boat can raise the cost of the outing considerably. Conservatively, you can figure on fifty dollars per trip, and that's not factoring in the gear expenses, though that's not likely to change much regardless of what type of boat you have. I can easily go through fifteen to twenty-five dollars worth of plastics on a day when the fishing is hot. If you buy a used boat, with no warranty, all repairs are out of your pocket. The expenses will just keep piling up.

Sounds like you've burned yourself out. I remember how excited you were to start your exercise/body building regimen. You've obviously lost that enthusiasm. It can be difficult to get it back. The only words of wisdom I can think of is the following. Do all things in moderation.