Fishing Rhino

Bodily odors? Stop 'em before they start. This "info"commercial was aired once but is available on youtube.

I use the E2 jigs with finesse worms, and I like them. One note of advice if you use them. I like the arrangement for tying to your line. But, be sure to retie often, even if your line/leader is not frayed. The advantage is that you pick up fewer bits of grass or weed at the knot. I lost a couple of jigs, because the line parted at the knot. I use 20 pound fluoro for a leader. When the jigs broke off, the line came back with a little curve at the end, indicating to me, that it broke off because it was damaged from contacting rocks, or scuffing along the bottom. Close examination showed the line had been scuffed. For me, I retie before my first cast of the day with the jig. That has eliminated the problem. If you fish exclusively with the jig, you might need to retie a couple of times a day. It depends on the bottom where you fish, and how many casts you make on a given day. Each time you check the line for nicks, examine the knot carefully. http://web7.streamhoster.com/basswest/MegaStrikeShakeyUPDATE.swf

My vote is for the Strike King (elaZtech) finesse worm, four inch, coppertreuse color. It will catch fish, and it will last until you lose the rig. It will not tear.

This one is my favorite. In fairness, it's also my least favorite because it's the only one I have tried. I do have some other shaky head jigs that I will get around to trying, but these rigged with a four inch Strike King "elaZtech" finess worm, coppertreuse color, has produced some serious numbers and sizes of largemouth bass. They aren't cheap, but they tend the bottom nicely and when they do hang, a simple bow twang usually frees them. http://www.***.com/descpageSHD-MSSH.html Here's a video. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=megastrike.com&docid=1199378595997&mid=6DC17665A97D70455E666DC17665A97D70455E66&FORM=VIVR34#

I use fluoro leader on all the braid I fish. Most of my fishing is done on rocky bottom, and braid is useless in the rocks. I start with about seven feet of leader, and replace it when it gets to about four feet long. Braid is great in all the vegetation I fish, particularly lily pads. It saws through them like a hot knife through butter, but if it touches a rock, it breaks like sewing thread. I use the various colors for quick identification of the line's rating. Red is ten, yellow fifteen, and green is twenty pound test. Lest it seem like a contradiction, most of the vegetation is found on the rocky or cobble bottom, including the lily pad beds.

I'd like to give it a try, but I don't have a combo capable of casting barges. :D

Not to mention raising the water temps. Truth be told, in most cases, urine is sterile. Don't believe it? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urine Probably not a good idea to have a lot of ice fishermen engage in the practice, though, in the end, it might reduce fishing pressure.

I use the larger size Plano boxes, three inches deep. I label them on the ends, using a Sharpie, then put a piece of clear packaging tape over the markings. If I ever wanted to change the labels, remove the tape and wipe with acetone or fingernail polish remover.

I've been lucky. The hooks on the Jackall Wacky Jig Heads are lightweight, and do bend when snagged on a rock. It doesn't take much to bend them. I've been bending them back into position, and yet to have one break while a fish is hooked. But I've had them break while performing the second or third "reconditioning".

Littering is a pet peeve of mine. There is no justifiable excuse for being a slob on property that isn't your own. I'll guarantee that those who dispose of any form of trash on the water would be the first to howl if someone else's dog takes a dump in their yard, or tosses trash out of a car onto their property. Our home is on a wooded lot. We removed only the trees necessary for construction of our home, and a septic system. We have a bit of lawn around the house, but mostly it is woodland in its natural state, with only the briars and poison ivy being removed. Our neighborhood is composed of homes with treed front yards, and other homes with most of the trees removed and lawns going right up to the road. Passersby rarely toss their litter onto those with lawns out to the road, while those of us who left propery in its natural state along the road have to pick up cigarette butts, beer cans, nip bottles, losing scratch tickets, soda cans, beer bottles, McDonald, Burger King, Wendy etc, bags and cups, etc. People who dispose of their old butts, cigar stubs and whatever on golf courses or other public land show a serious disregard and disrespect for everyone else who owns or uses that property. The nicest guy in the world, or the most viscious thug, does not excuse the first while condemning the second when it comes to littering. Several years ago, I was heading home, when a bag of trash came flying out the side window of a pickup truck I was behind, onto the property of a person who happened to have a wooded front yard, I followed the truck to its destination, then I returned, picked up the bag, put a few tears in it so it would spew its contents on impact, and tossed it onto that person's front yard.

Fish the channels on the low tide, and fan out as the tide rises. When I fished for stripers, that was the standard technique. They'd go into the shallows and eel grass on the rising tide to feed on the critters that lived there, and retreat to the safety of the channels, gutters, holes, and other deep areas as the tide fell.

That's great, but, do you use the same strategy for each?

Good to hear, I am glad someone likes that POS color. It's a good looking bait but I've never had a strike on it. Hmmmmmm, whenever I read a post that is critical of what another raves about, and refers to it as a POS, it makes me wonder why it works for one and not the other. I like the *** tomato core worms, and they produce well for me. If they don't for another, is it the bait or the person? I cannot get a hit on rattletraps or similar crankbaits. Does that make them all pieces os? Or is it perhaps that I don't know what I'm doing with them? If it works well for others, but not for me, the problem can likely be seen in the mirror.

The longest UPS takes from one point in the continental US is three or four days. Same for FedEx. I've ordered from Cabela's and got my order in three days, standard shipping. On one occasion, two days. From BPS it never takes less than a week. I never said they mislead about the time one can expect delivery. I will reiterate that their shipping times are the worst/slowest of any online company I've dealt with. Why is it that Tackle Warehouse, Cabela's, ***, ***, and JJ's Magic to name a few, manage to get their product, some the same product as BPS, to my door in three days, while BPS can take up to ten, unless you want to pay to get it quicker? I believe the last part of the above paragraph tells it all. It's about the money.

Personally, I think it's a ploy by BPS to get you to pay the extra for quicker service. Their standard shipping is the pits, period. It has taken ten days for me to get an order after being notified it has been shipped. As I understand it, orders shipped by their standard can wait for days to make a single step in their journeys. They ship the cheapest possible way for them, which means that packages shipped via standard are at the bottom of the priority list for the USPS, UPS or FedEx. They are the last items to be loaded for the next destination. I know of no one else who ships their product in this manner. If you need something, pay the extra five or six dollars for the three day delivery.

You might find it here. Hope this helps. http://www.zmanfishing.com/ Click on chatterbait. On the page that opens there is a list of the various chatterbaits available on the left side. Click on each. Hopefully you'll find what you are looking for.

100 hours until an oil change ? I'm a Detroit mechanic. Those old 71 series can easily go 250 hours between changes. I'm sure as a Detroit owner you know how tough the 71's are, especially the naturals vs the turbocharged ones. I hope you ran straight 40 weight oil instead of 15w40 in it!! Yeah, they can be $$$$ to overhaul. The factory has been trying to kill them off for years, but there's still thousands of them out there. Getting parts can be iffy and they're expensive. Won't be long until they're outlawed because of emissions. They already are in certain waterways in the US. The actual running time was more than one hundred hours. The hour meter was part of the tach, which was cable driven. So the hours on the meter would not coincide with the actual passage of time. Hauling lobster gear, which constituted the greatest percentage of time on the water was done at idle. I did use the heavy weight oil. A tale of woe, and thank goodness for insurance. I'd had the engine rebuilt the prior year. We were headed for the fishing grounds, and I was in the rack, grabbing some zzzzzs with the mate at the helm. He awoke me and told me there was a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust. The engine was also revving then slowing, not unlike the GMs do when first started. Went to the engine room and found a screw had fallen from the raw water pump, and a stream of salt water was spewing directly into the intake. Shut it down. Replaced the screw, and tried to start it though I expected it to be an exercise in futility. The engine spun as though it had no heads. The innards were totally ruined. Couldn't even get a puff shooting ether into the intake. The salt water turned to steam, leaving behind salt crystals which scoured the inner parts like sand blasting material. The valves which, if I remember correctly should be ten to fifteen thousandths higher than the deck were recessed by forty-five thousandths. Those numbers may not be according to Hoyle, but whatever they were, the valves were now sixty thousandths lower than spec. The insurance paid for the rebuild. We got some six inch (I think) aluminum tubing and the hard rubber elbows and unions, and replumbed the intake to an area away from any and all potential problems. Also made it more convenient to change the foam sleeve air filter.

That was no moon. Just a typical Muddy wise crack.

Love the SK 3X products. They catch fish, and they last. How long they last I do not know. One of my main weapons is the ShakE2 jig head with a four inch coppertreuse trick worm. Never had one tear, or pulled off the hook. I've lost them due to the rig getting hung up in the rocks. I've caught over thirty bass and a couple of pickerel on one worm before losing it. The surface of the worm gets scuffed a bit, but that's it. Even when a pickerel grabs it by the tail, it stretches so much that eventually, it pulls from the pic's mouth. It will stretch so much that it's diameter will become less than a sixteenth of an inch.

I assume you want to take it apart once your done kayaking. Simple solution. Plunge the joint into the water. That will cool it down in a few seconds. If it leaks into the shaft where the blade slides over the shaft, try some silicone sealer for tubs and showers. A quicker, but more obvious fix is a few wraps of electrical tape stretched and wrapped around the joint. Being underwater will not affect its integrity.

I've heard of garlic and coffee flavored/scented lures, and salted baits, but mustard? Something else I will put on my "must try" list.

I fished from a rowboat. The only trick was getting into and out of the boat using only my good leg. An assist from my friend made the process easier. Once in, I was seated, and he did all the rowing. He also did all the lugging of gear. Not so much gear to tote back in those days. We each had a small tackle box and one pole each.

Your jaw pops all the time? Do you mean like it's not quite aligned, and pops back into place? I'd have that checked. It may very well be related to your other symptoms I seem to recall reading that misaligned jaws can cause all sorts of problems from headaches. to tinnitus, and other problems commonly associated with the ears. http://www.migraineheadachepain.com/diagnostic_checklist.html http://www.itsmn.com/symptoms/

Health costs are very high. But, have you really considered that you cannot use the cost of living as a means to determine that costs are spiraling out of control. Here's why. Medicine is a rapidly developing service. A first grade teacher that I had back in 1946 would be able to teach first grade today. A doctor from that era would not be qualified to practice as a nurse, let alone a doctor today. When I was twelve, my dad had hernia surgery. He was in for two weeks, and was in a ward. Does anyone remember what a hospital ward is/was? It was like a MASH unit with beds side by side in a large room. The only privacy was a curtain that could be drawn around the bed. Need oxygen? Someone from maintenance would tote up a tank of oxygen on a hand truck to the bedside. A plastic tent would be arranged over the bed with an oxygen hose arranged to dispense oxygen into the tent. Today, my dad would have likely had that surgery done in a same day admission/discharge procedure. You want to keep hospital costs on a pace with inflation? No problem. Go back to the dark ages of a few decades ago. Also, you might want to consider this. Many, if not most hospitals are operated on a non-profit basis. And, were it not for philanthropy, many hospitals would be closed, since the fees received do not cover the costs of the services provided.