Steve1357

Snogle, get the Shimano. That way, when you get frustrated so bad, you feel like throwing it away, you won't be telling yourself you should have gotten the Shimano since all of your other reels are Shimano. Your first baitcaster will be tough, keep at it, get someone to help, you'll figure it out.

"Use 55 or 65 lb braid, and there are no hang ups..you pull out whatever your lure/jig is hung on.." X2 lol

Search eBay for the reels, see what you think.

Clinch knot, not improved clinch knot. When you get hung up, you can pull it loose, and not cut your hand or destroy your reel. http://www.fish4fun.com/knots.htm#Clinch%20Knot Improved clinch or Trilene knot is fine. The Palomar knot is overrated when using fluorocarbon... http://www.tackletour.com/reviewtrilenefc.html Go fishing, have fun. (and using a Palomar knot, might be tough getting two strands of 20lb line through a small jig eye)

"Ppl don 't know how good a reel is out of the box because they never bother to have it cleaned, re lube and re oiled before using it for the first time. " x2

"All modern reels I know of disengage the level wind during the cast" Lot of brand new reels do not disengage the level wind mechanism.

What year 5000 and how much money you want to spend? Some have only bushings, some have both, some have only bearings. Some will have the bushings/bearings in the left side and right side plates, newer ones will have them in the spool. That will also tell you what size of bearings to get, 4x10x4 or 3x10x4. At first guess, if they are in the spool, they are 4x10x4, if they are brass bushings in the side plates, they should be 3x10x4. I'd measure to make sure. vxb.com has 10 qty for $15, search for kit210 and kit677. I'd recommend cleaning the grease out of the bearings and lubricate with oil. Bearings can also be had in a new handle, and also a new level wind assembly, but I didn't want to "invest" that much. Two bearings was more than enough for me, I couldn't see putting a new handle on the reel costing more than the reel, but it will make it smoother. I find replacing the spool support bushings with new bearings lubed with a light weight oil, will have you freewheeling more than you need, wearing your shims out on the spool tension adjustments. You don't want to get it too hot on a cast, just to end up cranking it down... Have fun is the main thing, pick you up a few more of the same year model 5000s off of eBay, start you a collection to experiment with, everyone needs more than one... Btw, how far can you go? http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=46940&start=0

I got it for backing. Loaded some up, gets your fingers black real quick from the dye. 200 feet of the 65lb on an Abu5000 leaves me 100yds of 10/12lb mono on top. Visited six stores while traveling this week, only two stores had it, and only one had any 300yd spools left. For five bucks whether 125 or 300 yds, probably a promotional dump to get some feelers out. First time I've ever seen it, didn't know it existed. I don't fish with braid anymore, too hard to break!

fwiw Came across some Shakespeare Ugly Braid at Walmart today. Some 125yd and some 300yd spools. All five bucks. http://www.shakespeare-fishing.com/products/mono/ugly_braid.shtml

City Limits is tops Fishing Hawg Country, a local show, couple of regular guys yukking it up in NW Arkansas. http://www.myoutdoortv.com/show-microsite-fishing/fishin-hawg-country.html

I have Abu 5000s I changed out the bushings to bearings, I regularly throw 3" and 4" weightless Texas rigged Senko worms using BigGame 10 and 12lb line. Granted, total weight is .20 ounces, but put a 1/8 jig with skirt on the scales and take a look.... At the least, I'd still throw a round reel because they are more comfortable, and I don't have to worry about the palm plate falling off.

Rooster, have you went fishing left handed yet?

More reading about Snyder... http://www.howtofishguide.com/tackle/history-fishing-reel

"Huh O RLY?" Yeah, read up on competitive distance casting and see what kind of reels are being used. They ain't your latest low profile Byzantium poodle reel. Can your reel free spool for three minutes?

Ever seen monofilament crush a spool? Old school stuff.... http://www.realsreels.com/servicing/Ambassadeur%205000%20service.pdf Then again, I've never seen worm burn before.

It's not cheap, but get some Dacron. It's the best backing if you're interested in that route. Search for dacron backing or dacron fishing line.

I posted this before, it's what I learned, maybe something will click for you. My 2c, switching to spinning to baitcaster, instead of throwing it, letting it go completely at release, I tend to describe a baitcasting cast as slinging it, like you throwing someone off a merry-go-round. You need to accelerate the rod tip and lure and gradually ease off your thumb pressure before you get to the release point, allowing the lure to start leaving out and the spool to start accelerating. The trick being to never allow the spool to spin faster than the lure is pulling line off. At first you'll throw it a few feet, took me a few months, now it's second nature to throw it a mile with little effort. Never lose contact between the thumb and spool, you'll get use to having the thumb barely touching it, it at all, but sense when the spool is out running the line... I guess I'm saying start by keeping things snug and gradually build your distance with the confidence and technique you learn as you go. Don't try 1/8 jigs yet, seems light jigs and spinnerbaits catch a lot of air slowing down quicker than other baits. Most of my failures (birdnests) are when I grab another rod with a jig and trailer or spinnerbait after chunking a plug or carolina rig for a while. You may notice you can tension the spool tension knob tighter to where the lure will not even fall to the ground and still throw it a long way. I regularly go trout fishing now with 4 and 6 lb test and light rigs on baitcasters. You'll pick it up quickly. As we've suggested on other threads, get some BigGame line, a quality line, good quantity, at a good price, so when you mess up, cutting it off isn't so bad. Also I've seen it suggested to make a cast, add some extra, then put tape on the spool there, so next time it won't birdnest beyond your tape stop. Oh, one more thing, rotate your rod and reel so the thumb is not part of casting the rod, you need your thumb free for spool tension, I was using my thumb at first to "push" the rod forward, and trying to work spool tension with the thumb at the same time. Instead of the reel being top dead center, I rotate mine 45 or 90 degrees off to one side. I remember starting out baitcasting using a "backhand", it was the only way I could get any results until I discovered a technique that worked for me. It's like golf, it's the score that counts. You've seen pros have some funny looking golf swings making millions...

Still using 1980s model 4500 and 5000 Abu Ambassadeurs. Changed out the spool bushings to bearings, huge performance difference. Also pure simplicity when it comes to disassembling them for maintenance. 200 yard spool line capacity on a 5000 the only complaint I have, but 100 yards of backing takes care of that. Pick you a few more off eBay of the model you like, clean them up, order a few parts, enjoy fishing.

A common practice on some reels, don't know about your Revo. http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1998

"P.S. What is the best line? " lol, the line you have confidence in. With that said, I fish the Arkansas river a lot. Rock jetties, and who knows what else that will wear out a line. I use the Trilene BigGame spool, 10 or 12lb. I use Abu round reels holding 200 yards, so I use 100 yards of braid for backing and change out the top 100 yds of BigGame. Fishing mostly plastics and jigs, the river hardly ever clears up, murky most of the time, whether muddy or green. Line probably doesn't matter. I go trout fishing about once a month, I use Trilene XL in 4 or 6lb test on my spinning reels.

Rooster, it takes time, but to find the answer to the source of the rough feel, start swapping parts around. On my many Abu round reels over the years, I've replaced two pinion gears to get rid of the rough feel, they were smooth as new afterwards. To describe what it feels like, you can turn the handle and you can feel each tooth mesh. If you haven't yet, pick up an ultrasonic cleaner. Amazing what it will do with hot water and a little Dawn dishwashing detergent, you'll see the crud float out of the bearings and gears and save the abuse on your hands from chemicals...

First thought is that's like asking what is the best line. Seriously, I think they're fine. I use a gun oil in my reels, Breakfree CLP, because it stays thin down to -40F, is biodegradeable, of course the primary reason was the bottle was already sitting in the shop; I'll strip a reel if it doesn't feel right during an outing. I was having problems with casting distance using other oils once the temp got below 50F, the Breakfree made it cast like summer time again. The main idea is keep them clean, and lubricated, whatever you choose to use. http://www.break-free.com/products/products_breakfreeclp.asp?catalog=civil Btw, in researching, the Berkley grease is white lithium grease, one of the best, and the oil is a silicote oil, the same as Abu Garcia oil. They're fine.

I regularly use both, all lures, nothing special. You should get the hang of it after a few times... Last year, Walmart was dumping some left handed Okuma Tycirs for $20, I figured I'd try it. Great for worming, jigging. Guess the best advice is to try it and stick with it for a while.

jmho, use it for worming or jigging, get on ebay and pick you up a "newer" 5000 with 4.7 or 5.3 retrieve. I'm thinking it won't cost much more than the parts needed to speed up your older 5000. Mike's may have it or more ideas: http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/ His forums are pretty good too.

Mike's has the schematic. http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/