SirSnookalot

Be my choice except I'd be throwing spoons and top lures walking the beach and looking for bait, fish and bird activity.

I buy clothing because of the fit, not the logo on it. I don't care to put any kind of decal on my car, free or not.

I remember, using mostly braid I use this simple formula and it's based on the line weight of the rod. Basically it goes like this, 40# rod= 40# braid, 30# rod=30# braid, 10/20 rod = 20# braid, 8/17 rod= 15#, 6/12 rod = 10# braid. The only exception would be line capacity of the reel, I do have 1 inshore reel on 20# rod but the reel holds close to 300 yds of 30# braid, just thought that was a a better set up.

I don't ever throw anything heavier than 1/2 oz for bass, my canal set up because of high banks and a lot of vegetation is a med 7' 8/17 rod with 15# braid and I usually throw t rigged flukes. I do fish ponds quite a bit too, my lures aren't too different but the rods are either light or ml.

I do own quite a few rods from one company, I really like these rods a lot, they do what I want them to do and the price is right. However I find their line a bit deficient in a few of areas, 7' rods have a short butt, they do not make 8' rods, and their mh 10/20 rods limit the lure max weights. I have bought other brands that meet the specs I was looking for, and they are good rods but not like my main brand.

On the majority of my spinning rods braid with a leader is my choice, I no longer use F/C line or leader. I do use a mono or copoly when using specific lures that are constantly spinning, that adds twist at even faster rate. I do make a point of trolling my line out at the end of each outing, but I do that just so many times before I just replace all the line. Everyone has to find their own niche, I'm not particularly brand loyal, but do feel healthy line and leader is my #1 priority in fishing.

I like that store, it's great stop when I'm coming home from Hobe or Juno being right off I-95, but too far just to run up there from my home just to browse. BPS is about the same distance, living near the turnpike it's an easy drive, I usually stop when I'm taking my wife to the airport, works well as it's close to peacock country.

Sharks are fascinating and they make great TV entertainment, for the most part the focus is on Great Whites, Tigers, Bulls, and Hammerheads. As far as fishing for them with the exception of a few species I'm not too interested anymore, having caught many. Many sharks are caught by accident while fishing for other species, common catches in my part of Florida are sand, lemon, reef, black tip reef, nurse and a bonnetheads. These sharks can go anywhere from a few pounds to maybe 200# or so, it's long slow pull with the fish staying near the bottom, these hour long battles are backbreaking but not all that thrilling. Spinner sharks are like catching a sailfish, jumping all over the place and can be caught using artificial and they are in the 100# range, a ton of fun. I've yet to catch a Mako but I understand it's some pretty awesome stuff, many people are going after them on fly rod these days.

I like this

Personally I'd be sticking with standard guides with spinning gear. The way line comes off with a bigger " loop" (don't know the exact term, loop will do), on a snap cast the braid may be more prone to hit that first guide and cause wind knots. I think distance is derived more from the way a rod loads up rather than the reel or guides.

If bass fishing is the intent RW's response is exactly correct IMO. Buy a bass sized reel and you can use that line on it whether it's 20 or 30#. Put some mono on that 6000, get an ugly stick and use it as a bait outfit. I would never consider picking up a weight heavy enough to break 20 or 30# line just to see the breaking point and what the pound test is.

In tidal fishing an important factor is knowing which species favor incoming or outgoing tide. Rule of thumb is a period of time (like 30 or 60 minutes) just before and after a tide change, we call that the "window". That's the time baitfish are usually more abundant, which brings in the gamefish.

Just because a rod is inshore does not mean it will handle heavier lures, these rods have max lure weight just like freshwater rods. An example is, I have 7' mh 10/20 rod with max lure of 1 oz, I have another 7 footer mh 10/20 with a max lure of 2 oz, imo there is little difference in an inshore rod and a freshwater rod. It is very common in fact the norm to exceed the max weight here, I see people including myself that throw 1.5 oz (or more) lures on max 1oz rod every day, never an an incident. The key is how you throw it, a snap cast may be disaster, a long flowing cast should not be.

Bucktails are great, one way to fish them in heavy current is casting against the water flow so they drop closer to the bottom, keep a high rod tip so you don't snag, you can go as light as 1/4 oz if you wish. Casting with the flow works good too, if the current is strong enough like 6-7 knots the jig regardless of weight will be close to the surface, they want it they'll come get it. You may want to trail a bass worm off the bucktail.

Just like a mugger, the gator that's gonna get ya is the one you never see.

I'm not sure if upgrading the drag increases the power or not, but if I were to do it the reason would perfomance not more strenght. 10# of drag for bass fishing is way more than I'd be setting it in the first place, my drag is set to the line I'm using. I do know quite a few big game charter captains and I know for a fact their drags are scale set when targeting tuna, marlin, swordfish and the like. I don't know if the drags or any other parts of the reels are upgraded, a question I'm going to ask them. I'm more curious about the drag issue as their reels are trolling, not cast and retrieve like bass or inshore fishing.

I think the 3 main reasons any kind of fish is lost may be due to a fish going airborn, a weak link in the line, knot or leader, or the fish just letting go of the bait (I might include a poor hookset into that last scenario). Nothing makes me happier than having my drag scream on the verge of being spooled, I'm both happy as hell and frustrated at the same that I couldn't land it.

When comes to a recreational pastime that I really enjoy like fishing I do not evaluate the return on my investment. No question I'm always looking for good deal first, but if I want something enough I'm buying it regardless of the price.

When I first went into the scrap business back in the early 70's driving American products was a must, bad things happened if you didn't. Either you were not allowed past the gate guard, could walk out of a plant to a flat tire, or be personally threatened. That's changed to quite a degree but if I were still in business my work vehicles would still be American. We weren't union but paid very close to union scale and benefits based on job description. Employed were people of Anglo ancestry, African American, and Mexican or Latin ancestry. I will say the Mexicans were never late, seldom missed a days work, didn't take cash advances, gave the maximum effort, never said " that's not my job", and always had a smile on their face.

Disappointed sure, but not overly bothered. Based on past performance I don't catch too many quality bass this time of year anyway I take it in stride. When I'm fishing for other species there are variables that need to come into play, tide, wind, surf, water clarity, and bait fish. At times it's easier than bass fishing and at times it's harder. I don't get frustrated, even in losing a big one, I know it's just a matter of time till I get another.

That department does not control any quality, their function is just to check parts to see if they meet specifications. I know exactly what quality control is. What matters is the set up the machinery and materials being used. I agree with 0119 regarding work ethic, whether it's Maylay, China, or Timbuktu, none of these people want to lose their jobs for poor work performance.

Sounds like he wants to audition for a remake of Superfly, I can see him filling in for Ron O'Neal.

I'm a spinning man, I've put a 4000 larger handle on a 2000 reel and it's made a huge difference, makes me think the Hawgtech is a nice option, whether the reason is comfort or better cranking power. Not being a b/c user, I've heard pros and cons after bearing upgrades, maybe buying a better reel in the first place might be cheaper and better in the long run, I don't really know. One thing that gets really tested on my reels are my drags, never upgraded or had to replace any, my reels catch a wide range of species and all kinds of fish. The only caveat would be a stradic I have that's about 5 years old and I'm just thinking about maybe replacing the drag, I couldn't begin to describe the amount, sizes and strengths of the fish I've caught on this reel. For me, if it aint' broke don't fix it.

This summer isn't much different than other ones here, I wouldn't take it personal or alter your technique too much. In the type canals and ponds you fish there is just so much you can do, in summer the bass can be quite lethargic here. Not that I don't fish for bass 12 months of the year, but I don't make bass my primary focus now. Florida may not be the best place in the country to catch fish, but it ain't bad and there is always something happening if you are willing to find it. Bottom line is real simple here in Florida, ya wanna catch fish 365 days of the year, have to fish for a variety species.

Before the present format of BR my spell check work perfect for detection and correction. Now I only get detection with no ability to correct, regardless of browser.