SirSnookalot

Most of my fishing is saltwater and the max size braid I use is 30# for offshore, my inshore gear gets 15 & 20# braid, my reels go from 2000-8000 size. For me 30# is as heavy as I care to use. That said, there are no rules in fishing, use what you like. Freshwater I use 10 & 15 braid, nothing but spinning gear. I use 65# braid to tie up my buganvilla plants in moss green, blends in perfectly with the leaves.

I think Francho is absolutely correct, finding the fish is the most important factor, doesn't mean that they are always " on". Give me 2 lures and I don't need anything else to catch most kinds of fish any place, bucktail jig and plastic fluke, I will be fishing them in a variety of ways to try and entice a strike. Any other lure, hard or soft I use is for me, fishing the same stuff everyday gets a boring, I need a change to keep my energy. I've been using jigs all week and catching a lots of fish, I'm bored with it, time to do something different.

Excuse the pun but a barrel swivel is at the bottom of the barrel. Barrel swivels barely rotate in the water, they are ok for line connection. Cranes turn better than barrels and ball bearings are better than cranes. A barrel with a snap for lure connection is fine, but a neater presentation is superior IMO. Personally I would use a duolock or facsimile for lure connection or learn to tie a loopknot, which is pretty easy. To answer the question, would it work............sure.

Off the top of my head I can think of only 3 reasons to favor a slightly larger spinning reel. More IPT, more line capacity and a better balance on a longer rod. I use several sizes, I like my reels match the rods I'm using, setting the drag to the line I don't feel extra horsepower is that important. Is there a difference between a 2000 or 2500 and a 3000 other than line capacity, I don't think it's absolute with all manufactures, you have to check the brand and model to be sure.

Warranties cover replacement of the defective product, but this goes a bit further. Where injury or property damage has been caused by a defective product both consumer protection laws and property liability laws allow the damaged party to seek compensation for the loss. The question is how much, for example if the entire boat would have caught on fire would he be entitled to a brand new boat, probably only replacement value and that would be determined by evidence of the value. Additionally boat insurance or HO insurance may cover the claim. Dealing with an amount of $1300 would rule out insurance claims or legal action (small claims is best bet), unless it's a matter of principal and the money is a secondary concern, which doesn't seem to be the case. Had the damage not occurred the carpet may have been replaced in a year or 2 anyway, settlement was the best way to resolve this issue. When adversity strikes we aren't always happy with the outcome, sometimes ya just gotta deal with it.

Size wise Bill Fisher #10 swivels at 100# test, so small I threw them out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEA-STRIKE-BILLFISHER-CRANE-BARREL-SWIVELS-SZ-10-100-PK-NIP-1490-/130801736069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e74641985

It's a spinnerbait with a paddle tail, I've used them. I cross my lures between salt and fresh all the time, bucktail jigs and wildeyed shads work equally well in both environments.

I'm starting to agree with Sam, although I feel Pure Fishing did offer more than most other companies would. The question is this, can you get your carpeting looking exactly the way it was before their defective product caused a burnt spot for $500. If so or the spot doesn't bother you,you did ok. If not the full $1300 for carpet replacement would have been more in line. The lures, regardless of the retail value are basically a goodwill move. As Sam says 50% of retail, IMO probably no much than $100 in their cost, besides how much could you resell those lures to help in the cost of carpet replacement, not to mention the inconvenience in doing so. Would a case like this go to court, probably not but if so you being the plaintiff wold probably have to file papers in their jurisdiction, meaning you travel there or get an attorney to do it for you. Even if you win, you still have lost considering expense and travel. I think Pure Fishing got off for $600, no more than $700 and you got a hole in your carpet.

Glad it worked out and you were happy. NEVER has Pure Fishing let me down, in my experience no company comes remotely close in trying to please their customers.

Larry Dahlberg and Jose Wejebe (RIP)

I don't know what swivels (micro)you are talking about, but I have bought some of the smaller Chinese BB swivels that have a high poundage rating. The only flaw I've noticed so far is that I have cut by accident one of the rings, total user error by trimming it too close. The metal doesn't seem to be as hard as with other brands, but no problems with strength.

I bought an Asus laptop for my wife, spent around $400, fits her needs perfectly and performs well. As with any computer keeping it healthy is the key to performance and longevity.

I generally use Plueger supremes for my freshwater, perfectly happy with them. Just for kicks I have been using a combo I bought for cheap for my grand son, a Daiwa tierra rod 6'6 med with a Shakespere agilty that may have cost me around $29, I've been loving it, smooth and the drag works well, how long it lasts is always a question, but at that price I don't care. When it comes to some of my other fishing I like to up the ante a little bit, I've been eyeballing the Okuma raw 2 @ $139 +, but the round knob is a bit of a turnoff, I prefer a paddle. The max drags on this series is quite impressive, not that I'm going to lock it down, as with any gear I don't care buy sight unseen.

Just using a large enough swivel and being aware is all that's needed. Even when I'm fishing without a swivel I'm aware of where my knot is and prefer it not going thru the guides, so my leaders are relatively shorter. Not that the knot is doing any harm but I don't care for the " feel" of it, changing leaders when necessary to me is an effortless process.

The only thing I will do with tag ends, especially braid as it can be a bit slicker, is to singe the end and put a bead on it, but it's trimmed quite close. Any well tied fishing knot is more than ample to land any fish without having to over complicate the issue. The alberto is like a Chinese fingercuff, the more it's pulled the tighter it gets. I've yet to use a knot for joining lines of any diameters that works better and I only make 10 wraps up, even in saltwater.

Best thing to cut braid is a lighter or a cigarette, it's actually melted not cut. The burnt end will have a bead formed on it which is a little extra help to prevent the tag end from puling thru, works for mono too.

Everyone loses fish ! Not landing 1 in 25 tells me only 1 thing......... user error. It isn't the line, type of lure, hooks, rod and reel or anything, blind luck would have landed at least one. Sorry to say you are setting the hook early or late and not getting a solid hookset, not keeping the rod low on a jump, or maybe the drag is not set properly.

30# braid and 10 # floro are pretty close to the same diameter, an alberto should be fine as well as some of the other knots, maybe some practice with the knot. Your "chain" is as strong as the weakest link, in your case 10# leader, if I were fishing open water I'd prefer a lighter mainline, if heavily vegetated I'd prefer a stronger leader.

Check out the sharks in a New Jersey neighborhood

Been catching a whole bunch of these little guys, lot of fun, I get outside for an hour or 2, beats watching Dr Oz.

Most knots that are designed for fishing will hold just fine if tied properly, however some knots with specific line types may be better than others. The knot that is easiest to tie and has given you confidence and success are the ones I'd be sticking with. I personally do not use a palomar, it's an excellent knot I just fumble too much with it, I opt for some other knots instead. I'm mostly a swivel user and my connections are pretty rock solid, as anyone I'm human and sometimes I make a mistake. I use the identical knots in both fresh and saltwater.

IMO a spoon may be the second best all around lure, it's right behind a bucktail jig for catching about anything in any body of water. There are many varieties of spoons, I don't buy a spoon based on species but what technique I'm going to do with it. Far and away it's a flutter type spoon like a Krocadile, it can be fished in a variety of ways. Windy days I'll be using thin profile like a tsunami or casting lure like an Acme kastmaster, or diamond jig. One of the hottest tickets is butterfly jigging and many companies make their own versions of a "sling jig", they can be casted, trolled or jigged, and I bet in deep freshwater conditions they would work too........... fish are fish. Whatever you buy just make sure it has a stainless coating, the cheapies rust up pretty bad, I buy a brand called Gator, half the price as Krocs and work every bit as well. 2 of my favorites for freshwater are Mepps, saltwater series, gold plated they don't tarnish, and Wahoo redfish spoon, yeh I use them for bass.

I'm in Florida and I don't catch 10# bass everyday, that's a good bass wherever you're at. I use 15# braid on spinning gear almost exclusively, those rare 8 and 10 pounders may be a bit more challenging to land out of the slop than a 1 pounder, but it can be done without much ado. I do see the point for a b/c, I watch these pros on tv yank and crank a 3 # fish in less than 5 or 10 seconds, that is not what I care to do. It's great for getting that fish in fast and getting on to the next cast in a tournament, as a recreational fisherman for me it's all about the fight even if it only lasts a little while. If I may here's little tip on landing some of those bigger fish if your are shore bound. Instead of trying to lift that fish out of the water or "springing it up", hold your rod perpendicular to the water, tighten your drag or hold the spool if it's spinning and just walk backwards pulling the fish up. This is a common saltwater beach tactic that I entwined into my freshwater fishing.

I do both, but use swivels the majority of the time. Swivel numbers are not always consistent, you really need to eyeball the split ring to make sure it doesn't pass thru the rod tip. Additionally not all rod tips are identical in diameter, the key is to purchase ones that will not go thru the guide. The actual poundage rating is not nearly as important, 50# is plenty for most fish but they are small, I mainly use #7 or #5 cranes depending on my rod and #2 and #4 BB swivels, if my memory is serving me correct. I see many people using barrel swivels not cranes, they don't fail too often on strength but they do not turn very well, basically they are just line connectors. The alberto is an excellent knot, easier and faster than a bimini twist and maybe as strong. As I do not even like a tiny alberto knot going thru my guides I use this knot sparingly for only certain species of fish like spanish mackerel, which will strike the swivel as as quick as a lure, best to use black and not silver if you are going to use one. One negative to any line to leader connection knot is line twist using certain kinds of lures or bait, whether casting, trolling or drift fishing, BB swivels help but don't prevent.

I take mine in for service locally, usually 3-4 days, spinning $16-20, my Avet conventional was $20. I've learned for anything more than a cleaning the manufactures service dept has served me best. Dealing with professionals generally will give me some recourse if I'm unhappy, doing it myself all I can do curse like hell when I f.u.