Fishwhittler

Very, very nice! That topwater is awesome. 8-)

This is the setup I use: Master G22 Airbrush & Compressor. I've had it for several months and I'm very pleased with it. Hope this helps. Ben

That looks great! I still can't believe the amount of detail you put on your baits with just a brush. 8-)

Very nice baits! I like the blue chartreuse shad. 8-)

Now those are some nice looking lures! 8-) That "snake" bait in the first pic looks very interesting. I've never seen anything like that before. Have you had any issues with them breaking? I'd think a bait that shape wouldn't be very durable due to the woodgrain.

Thanks guys. MarcDavid, I didn't think this up on my own (I only wish I had ;D); someone saw a pic of my catfish swimbait and wanted a boat keychain made the same way.

Very nice! They don't look ugly to me.

Here's a couple tutorials: How to post a picture from your PC How to post pictures using an online photo host Hope this helps. Ben

Very nice! They all look great, but the baits in the first pic are my favorites. 8-)

Okay so they aren't lures, but the only difference between these and my catfish swimbaits is these don't have hook hangers or ballast weights. Anyway I figured I'd post them here. Opinions?

Those look nice! 8-)

Very, very nice! 8-) The gizzard shad and the red hot are awesome.

Thanks guys. Dave, that's a blank from bustinbassbaits.com. It swims pretty well. I've also tried their #4 and #10 lure blanks: the #4 sinks and can be adjusted to swim well. The #10 blank, however, is a completely different story (I believe it's a knockoff of the Lucky Craft Bevy Shad). Every single one of the #10 lure blanks I got is lopsided. I tried heating a couple of them and reshaping them by hand, but that didn't work. I've also tried sanding one of them till it's pretty round and then coating it with epoxy, and I've ended up with a more or less symmetrical bait. I've yet to test it to see if it works, but even if it does work there are many better blanks out there that will work without so much tuning. Anyway, the #4 and #10 blanks and the pike minnow are the only ones I've tried from them, and having two out of three different blanks work isn't bad. I'll probably be trying more of their blanks in the future. Their #9 bait in particular looks very interesting. Ben

Actually it's a pike/bluegill hybrid. I used U-40 Permagloss for topcoat on this bait.

Awesome baits! 8-) The first stickbait, the crappie patterns and the shadow patterns are my favorites.

B51 crankbait, another fat cedar crank, and a knockoff paint.

Great baits! I like the second and fourth ones. 8-)

Very, very nice. I like those red patterns. 8-)

Very nice! 8-)

Same kind as the last batch I posted. I tried a craw pattern on this one.

Thanks! String, the proto had a tight action when I tested it, but the 3d angry eyes may change the action, possibly quite a bit. I put some on a rattlin' rapala once, and they just ruined the action, but I think this bait is large enough to counteract most of the effects of the eyes.

Glad to help! 8-) BTW, you'll probably want to get epoxy syringes to accurately measure your epoxy. Accurate measuring is one of the two most important things to getting a good topcoat on your lures (the other vital step is mixing thoroughly; even if you measure correctly, if you don't mix well you'll end up with sticky, uncured epoxy). U-40 comes with a pair of 3 cc syringes, but they're pretty small and Flex Coat doesn't come with any. Mudhole sells 12 cc syringes in pairs, and you'll want them if you coat more than five or six lures at a time.

Ultra V and Flex Coat are the same thing. The two epoxies I've been talking about are Flex Coat Ultra V High Build and Trondak U-40 LS Supreme High Build. What happened with the tear was the hook point got stuck in the finish and then ripped free. That could happen to almost any finish, but the flexibility of U-40 may make it more susceptible to this kind of damage. Flex Coat is harder and I haven't had this kind of thing happen when I used it, but it chips rather than tear and it gets hook rash easier. Putting Flex Coat over U-40 or vise-versa might do something, but I don't think it would really make the finish more durable. Whichever epoxy on top would still have the same chemical makeup as before, so I'd think you would still have the same effect as if you were only using one epoxy. A 2 1/2" crank usually needs a little over 1 cc of epoxy to coat it completely. I just did some calculating, and there are roughly 240 cc's in an 8 ounce epoxy kit, so assuming two coats per lure you'd get about 120 lures out of it. But then you have to account for waste and extra coats, so the actual figure would be closer to 95-100 baits from an 8 ounce epoxy kit. For a two ounce kit you would only get about 1/4 of that, so then you're only talking 20-25 baits. The number of lures you can coat from a single kit will also vary if you make larger or smaller lures. Hope this helps. Ben

Glad you like it. Here's the rest of the review if you're interested: Trondak U-40 Review. Both Flex Coat and U-40 are available from Mudhole.com. I've done some experimenting with my mixing process since posting that thread (not this one). Now I mix U-40 steadily for four minutes without stopping or heating, and then let it sit for ten minutes before application. I still get some bubbles, but not as many as I was getting. You can pop some of the bubbles once the epoxy is on the bait by blowing through a straw; I find that this works better than simply blowing on the bait without a straw. Edit: Forgot the pics. Below are some pics of a bait that I coated with U-40. The scratches you see on the shoulder of the bait are from the bait slamming into a rock at high speed. I had got the lure tangled in a tree close to the water, and so I gave it a few jerks to pull it free. It came loose, but it came flying back at me and smashed into some rip-rap next to where I was standing. The marks on the back of the bait are the only damage the bait received from the impact.

Figured it was time for an update. I've been using U-40 now for over two months and still no signs of yellowing, and I don't think it's going to yellow anytime soon (if it ever does). Here's what I've noticed about U-40 and Flex Coat: Trondak U-40 LS Supreme High Build: 1. Somewhat slicker to touch than Flex Coat 2. More durable (U-40 can tear if you get a hook point or other sharp object through it, but it doesn't chip or crack) 3. More teeth-resistant than Flex Coat. U-40 doesn't scratch as easily or as deeply, mainly due to its extra flexibility 4. Cheaper than Flex Coat U-40 is also considerably thicker than Flex Coat, but that can be either an advantage or a disadvantage. This probably wouldn't be an issue if you used the medium-viscosity version of U-40. Flex Coat Ultra V: 1. Easier to mix bubble-free than U-40. I can mix Flex Coat completely bubble-free, which so far I haven't been able to do with U-40. 2. Slightly longer cure time, which means you have more application time. 3. Less odor (U-40 doesn't smell very much, but Flex Coat has practically no odor at all) 4. Easier application. Flex Coat is thinner and spreads easier than U-40. Those are the main points I can think of, but that should give a pretty fair idea of how U-40 compares to Flex Coat. Neither of these can claim the title of the "Perfect Topcoat", but both are excellent coatings that provide very good protection for lures. Thanks for reading. Ben