Jrob78

This is definitely your best bet, IMO. You get a serviceable rod that can be upgraded later and a reel that will last you many years. Whatever you decide, try to get a reel with an aluminum frame, not graphite. In my experience, graphite framed reels just don't hold up well.

Agreed. The Chronarch E at $200 is a Curado E with a white paint job and a higher price.

I always take the split rings off of topwaters that come with them. I like to tie loop knots on poppers and walkers, it gives them more action and allows them to walk easier. I suppose snaps would do the same thing, I just don't like snaps. FWIW, I put oval split rings on all my crankbaits that come with round ones, I never have to worry about tying in the gap.

Yeah, the Imakatsu Waddle Bat is the one I know about.

My ears perked up when I heard Hack say that too. I like flat cranks at certain times of the year but the only ones I use now are the LC KJ Flat and various balsa baits. It will be nice to have a good cheaper alternative.

Putting a short shank hook on a bait and not going up in size kind of defeats the purpose. If you put a KVD 4 on a 1.5, you're essentially putting on a smaller hook.

I like Mustad KVD short shank hooks in a size 2 or Gamakatsu Short Shank round bend hooks in a size 2 on 1.5 sized sq bills. If you go with a regular length hook, like Gamakatsu EWG's or Owner St 36's, you will need a size 4. The general rule of thumb for me is to go up a size with short shanks and stay the same with regular shanks. If my hooks can tangle together, they're too big.

I'm a big fan of the Fuji Alconites also. They are good guides at a reasonable price. I've also used, and liked, American Tackle Ring Lock Guides with Nanolite rings. If you want to go titanium and/or Sic, I would personally stick with Fuji. Since you're going to full size guides and the rods are heavier, shaving every possible ounce isn't quite as critical so stainless frames should be fine. Also, many builders don't build on the spine anymore, most build on the straightest axis. If your blank is really straight and you want to build on the spine, by all means do, but it isn't going to make or break the build.

Daiwa for me, although I own many other brands.

Your options are mostly unlimited. BPS doesn't carry very many reels over $300. The Pflueger Patriarch that you mentioned is a phenominal reel. It doesn't get near the credit it deserves. The Patriarch XT is even better, it's ashame that it was discontinued. Aside from that, I would go with a Daiwa Zillion, (if they have any) the Revo Premier or the Shimano Core.

X2 I've been putting Curado E handles on all my Shimano reels that have the smaller knobs. I love the paddle knobs and longer E series handles.

The H20 crankbaits are great. I also noticed they have Trokars buy one get one free.

TW is 100% reliable. They have a spotless reputation and rightfully so.

Very well said.

Good advice, the rod is just as important as the reel when casting light baits. FWIW, I use a Sol and Curado 50E for light cranks.

I wouldn't use braid with a big swimbait either. It's a bad feeling when you hear that loud snap and see your bait go flying. I like a heavy copoly for large baits. I use 20-25 Pline CXX. Heavy mono would work as well. Fluro would be fine too, I just don't see the need for it. It's more expensive and harder to manage in large sizes. I do use fluoro, just not for heavy swimbaits.

If you work your rod tip down toward the water, a shorter rod is probably better. I use 6'10" rods for a lot of my topwater and jerkbait fishing.

In my opinion, any soft plastics (casting and spinning) and jigs are the techniques where having the best rod you can afford is really beneficial for sensitivity. Spinnerbaits, crankbaits, topwater, jerkbaits, chatterbaits...etc, don't require the sensitivity that plastics and jigs do. That said, balance, weight and the proper power and action are important for any technique, how important is up to you.

When you're retrieving a deep crank, you should point the rod tip at the bait. This will eliminate some of the drag the bait puts on you and your equipment.

You will definitely want a MH cranking rod for the deeper stuff. I would also recommend getting something at least 7'4" or longer. The longer rod will help you cast as far as possible to get the maximum depth out of your bait. I prefer glass or composite for deep cranks, some people like graphite, it's really a matter of personal preference. Glass is generally going to be slower than graphite and less responsive, this isn't a bad thing with crankbaits though. Glass will also be a little heavier and a little less sensitive. The idea is to have a rod with plenty of give so that you can keep tension on the fish as it jumps and makes runs while not keeping so much tension that it tears the trebles out. As far as brands and specific rods, there are so many to choose from. If I were buying a factory deep cranking rod, I would be looking at the Seeker S-glass Paul Elias Kneelin n Reelin rod. I know there are some good graphite cranking rods in Shimano's Crucial line up.

I'm going to join y'alls BASS group, if you don't mind

It is similarly sized as the Sol but it's built on a different frame and is actually a magnesium reel. The Fuego is an awesome reel and I wish I had more than the 1 I have. The Sol shares a frame with the JDM Alphas. Part of what makes the Sol a great finesse reel is the spool. The Fuego has a normal deep spool. I'm sure if you tuned it up it would handle lighter baits but it wasn't designed to be a finesse reel. If I were looking for a finesse reel on limited budget, I would be looking for a used Sol, a Curado/Chronarch 50E or a used Chronarch 50mg.

I will be the proud owner of a new 135 with the high seat in about 2 weeks. I can't wait.

I think you're thinking of something else. The Fuego isn't the same as the Sol, at all. It was also discontinued in about 2009 and might be harder to come by than the Sol. It isn't a finesse reel.

If cost is not a factor and you want the best, get a Loomis NRX. They are ridiculously expensive but set the benchmark for sensitivity. I don't think you will find another rod that comes close in the sensitivity department. I have a couple of St. Croix Legend Extremes, they are very sensitive but don't balance as well as the NRX. Another rod that I've been hearing great things about is the new Lamiglas Infinity, the handle is weird but transfers vibrations very well. I hear the rod is very light and very sensitive. I plan to build on one the blanks soon. Also, you should consider the Phenix Ultra MBX line up. They are really nice rods at a decent price.