Jrob78

Generally, I like a similar rod for hard jerkbaits and topwaters. It sounds like the rod you have should be adequate for both. As far as line, you're right about fluoro for jerkbaits but it's definitely a no go for topwaters. I would get a mono or copoly that you like and go with it. I would personally use 10lb test in a good copoly. I suppose braid would also work, if you wanted to go that route.

My favorite deep cranker is a custom, built on the 7'6" Lamiglas Skeet Reese fiberglass blank, the SR 765R was the production rod's part number. I much prefer a 7'6"-8' glass rod for deep cranking. You can bomb a big crank a mile and the slow action gives you the forgiveness you need to work the bait and keep a fish buttoned up.

Check this site out, it's one the Korean companies that sells reels to be rebranded. Many of the different reels on the market come from the same place and aren't original designs, or original American designs at least. http://www.doyofishing.co.kr/goods/theme.php?code=2

Sorry, not trying to put words in anyone's mouth. If you're a Mercer guy, it's all good. I just find him to be annoying and very unoriginal, he makes Elite weigh ins painful to watch. Just my opinion though.

Please don't compare Dave Mercer to Mark Zona. Mercer is the worst. Zona is who he is, I think he's like that all the time, camera rolling or not. His excitement for fishing is infectious and genuine. He's sometimes too over the top for my tastes but I have a lot of respect for the guy and enjoy watching his show. He and Tommy Sanders work really well together too.

Some of the pre-Rapala Wiggle Warts go for a lot of money, especially the craw colors. They are very highly regarded on many of the highland reservoirs, like Table Rock.

Lucky Craft KJ Flat Don Iovino Splash It Berkley Havoc Pit Boss Grande Bass Mutant Prime Target Wobbler Swimbait

I like the looks of the Spyder vice, next time I'm at Cabela's I will check it out. I don't tie a ton of stuff but when I do, I don't want to spend half my time fighting with the vice. Thanks for the suggestion.

I sometimes like to use a tube with a foam ear plug inserted inside it on a c-rig. Kind of the same idea only on a heavier scale. Where in Dallas were you fishing?

I would advise you not to buy a cheap a vice. I've got a rotating vice that I paid about $50 for and I'm not very happy with it. The jaws don't tighten down well enough to put any real pressure on what you're tying. You also have to loosen the jaws to rotate it. I wish I would have bought a nicer vice to start with.

Probably soft plastics for me. I have a ton of everything else too but I've had to make myself stop buying plastics.

I've mainly only used mine for heavier applications so I can't really say for sure how light it would go but I don't consider it a finesse bait caster by any means.

The twitching bar is a little gimmicky to me but it's a solid, well built reel, I have a couple of them. I think the original price was in the $200-$225 range. The Viento doesn't have Magforce Z braking but the current Cabela's version does have the updated handle. All in all, it's a good reel at $99.

Zoom WEC E1 Lucky Craft BDS 3 XCalibur XCS 100

Nice collection!

You can probably even contact the rod company and tell them what happened and the model of your rod. Often times, they will send you a new one at no charge.

I use Gamakatsu EWG's, Gamakatsu Round bend short shanks, Mustad KVD Triple Grips and Owner ST 36's, they all have their place. I use sizes from 6-1 on crankbaits and lipless cranks. I like round bends on some baits like topwaters and short shank hooks on sq bills and lipless cranks. I use the largest sized hooks that won't tangle together. Be careful changing hooks on suspending jerkbaits as they will alter the way the bait suspends.

Firetiger is a proven crankbait color for dirty water but not so much in swimbaits. Not saying it won't work but there's a big difference in a swimbait bite and a reaction bite.

What's even worse than that is when people say med. heavy action or heavy action or heavy action with a good tip. WTH does that even mean?? You hear pros do it all the time and some rods are even labeled that way. It makes my skin crawl when hear people say that. Either they don't know the difference or don't care, it makes you sound like a moron when you say it though.

I figured you probably did. I wouldn't think it's a lubrication problem, it sounds more like something didn't get put back together exactly right. I would take the reel completely apart and start over. Follow the schematics exactly and see if that doesn't fix it.

When you changed the gears, did you change both the main gear and the pinion gear?

Right now my favorite is the KJ Flat in chart/black back. That will probably change to a Zoom WEC E1 in Classic or a XCalibur XCS 100 in Tennessee Shad in month or so.

The drag upgrade is a must on Shimano reels, plus it's a really cheap upgrade. If you do the tune, send it to someone you trust will do a good job and you will never think about reversing it. I would probably do bearings too but in reality, getting them properly cleaned will probably be a big upgrade over how they are now. One other thing I like to do on the older 100 and 50 sized Shimanos is put a Curado E handle on them. It's longer and has the bigger knobs, that's just personal preference though.

I don't have any experience with that reel but it looks like a Quantum Code with some KVD logos on it. The real KVD Quantum reel costs $299. I would think you could find a better reel for $99. Check out the Pro Qualifier.

This is sort of a, "if a tree fell in the woods" scenario but would you necessarily know if you were having slack line issues with braid? You don't always know you had a bite when you don't feel it. Unless of course, your plastic is balled up or your line has swam off. For the record, I like braid on spinning gear, just thinking out loud.