Delaware Valley Tackle

Check the blank for any visible signs of compromise and put a good deep bend in it to test being sure not to bend the tip past 90* to the butt. Chances are at some point moisture will creep under the epoxy and soften the threads requiring a rewrap. Nothing imminent or catastrophic though .

Unless you have a number of reels to service that justifies purchasing a specialized tool, I advise against removing spool minted bearings. Either clean them in place by blasting with a spray or dip them in a deep container. Or save the aggravation and send the reels out.

A knot will not damage the guide nor vice versa. A well tied Albright knot should pass as well as anything. "Micro" covers a range of guide sizes. A 4 will pass 50# braid and 12-14# leader. I think the duckett uses even smaller guides but I'm not sure.

The width of the spool has more affect on the difference in retrieve over the length of a cast than the depth of the spool but this would not even be on my radar while out on the water.

Regardless of what line you use, regular maintenance is important. Annual deep cleaning and interim oiling and general care . Just like an oil change on your vehicle extra hard use and harsh conditions may indicate more frequent servicing.

IPT trumps ratio. 25 ipt is more what I'd expect from a 6.x:1. My deep cranking reels are <20 ipt

TV and tournament anglers sometimes run out of stuff to talk about start talking this kind of nonsense in an attempt to remain relevant or cutting edge while propping up sponsors. Braid is perfectly safe for use on your reels.

Exactly. You have to remember a bait of given weight and profile will only fly just so far no matter what. A 1/16 oz jig is not much heavier than some large flies that require fly line.

you're in good hands here

I feel I get a better presentation and lure action with a fast action but soft tipped rods.

I can service and tune your reels to the highest level. If you send them in include your screen name and get a 10% discount off the already low labor. Feel free to contact me with any questions.

the alignment arrows are for the concentric oscillator gear. If they're out of adjudtment you usually feel a thump at the top and bottom of the stroke. id look at the where the main shaft meets the oscillator gear. Make sure it's all seated fully and the main gear teeth aren't dragging on it.

Even as a Rod builder I have some trouble wrapping my head around the obsession with Rod balance. Guys fish 9' fly rods with the tip up gripped right at the butt all day with no problem. A lot of this has been drummed into our heads my marketers looking for an edge . The only way to change the feel of an already built Rod is add weight to the very end with a cap. When starting from scratch handle length, blank choice, guides and wraps all factor in.

Amount or type of grease won't cause grinding especially suddenly. Something is out of alignment or not seated perfectly. It doesn't take much. Sometimes you redo it what seems like the exact same way then it works fine. It's impossible to diagnose sight unseen.

The force required to trip that bail is throwing s loop into the line. Braid may not be a match for that particular Rod/reel combination.

The PQ and supreme are different versions of the same reel. Only difference is features offered.

Rain, rinsing or a quick dunk in clean water won't hurt. If the water is dirty with suspended debris or the reel lays on the bottom at all it's almost surely contaminated inside. It's not so much the water but the abrasives it can contain that are a problem.

Unfortunately there are no industry standards for Rod specs, it's all subjective. Lure weight ratings are just suggestions plus one company's mh can have different power and specs from another's. Next, weightless refers to added weight not total weight of the bait. A 5" senko is far from"weightless ". 1/4 oz weight with a good sized plastic will weigh 1/2 or better most likely. A little trial and error will show you a rods sweet spot and limitations. Then you can fill in around them if you feel the need.

Spinning reels are another animal to begin with and the revo ones are different from most.

It's not rocket science but each reel model has a "gotcha" of some sort. Like everything there's a learning curve and tricks of the trade that are hard to pick up doing a handful of reels here or there. I learn something every day.

While the "new" lews haven't been around all that long the platform has been used for years by ABU, Pflueger, BPS etc. They're reliable enough especially the mid and up models. Investing in an annual cleaning and inspection will safeguard and extend the life by well more than the cost.

Sometimes a quick dunk in relatively clear water won't require more that thorough drying and superficial lubrication. Doesn't sound like that's the case here since there are lingering symptoms. A full tear down is in order. If you don't feel comfortable tackling it, send it in at your convenience and I'll get it back asap.

The cost of cleaning for members here is $19.80 ea $237.60. For 12. DIY is a viable alternative for many but not all. One thing to consider is that I put an average of 1.5 hrs into each reel. Novices should plan on at least double that . That's 36 hrs, almost a full week worth of work on this example.

As a baseline I recommend annual deep cleaning. Adjust as circumstance and symptoms dictate.

You can get by all one or the other but you're doing just that in some circumstances. Becoming proficient with different tackle types provides options and enhances the overall angling experience.