Delaware Valley Tackle

I don't have hands on with that Rod but 1/2-3 is a rather wide range. Flipping is no problem because the Rod doesn't load you're just feeding out line. Pitching maybe less than ideal on the light end. That sounds more like a punching Rod to me. I'd look elsewhere personally.

I almost never palm a casting reel. A small enough grip and seat will probably make more difference.

Main gear and pinions are a set and diameters change. Regardless of brand.

Test casting an retrieving under load should be a step in the guide placement especially in a spiral wrap. That will tell you if any compensation is needed. Modern reels have such low profiles and narrow spools I rarely need to place the stripper off -0- degrees

Certain baits, flukes and inline spinners for example, tend to exacerbate line twist. A swivel can help then. As a simple connection they serve no purpose.

Graphite isn't the dirty word it's made out to be sometimes. However, if you have the budget for a metal framed reel and plan on using it hard for years to come that's the way to go.

It depends on the bait and jig total weight and then the Rod makers definition of M & ML. I'm moving more toward ML rods for all my spinning applications.

Power is important as moderate only refers to where the Rod initially bends, not how easily it bends. I like a fast action but soft tip for top water and suspending jerk baits but the mod can be made to work if that's what you have.

Put a reel in the seat or you may trim off too much.

Try locking the brakes back down or at least slide them back gently before replacing the side plate. They can bind on the brake drum if you're not careful.

All I can think of is a missing or mid sized spool bearing. Even then the frame should limit movement. If you want to send it in I'll diagnose and go from there if you'd like. I'm curious.

The supported gear ensures alignment which improves smoothness and longevity ( neither of which was a problem before) but has no impact on torque, power etc. the ponion on prior models was never "unsupported".

If you're convinced the bearings are clean check the spool, frame and inside pinion. It doesn't take much to affect free spool. If you decide to move ahead with bearings ABEC 5 ceramic hybrids are all you need and are only $9.95ea.

There are a few considerations, casting weight, cover and depth plus the vauge subjective way rods are labeled. Id start by looking at the lure weight range and pick something where the lure weight falls near the mid range. Probably a medium in most lineups. A graphite mod fast action is good for working through and around cover. If the cover is heavy I step up a power but it's still important for the Rod to load and cast appropriately.

Check a schematic to be sure all the parts are there. Inside the cap should be a flat rubber spacer, a black plastic click washer, a small carbon spacer in the middle, and a metal spring washer. There's another click washer with short legs that sits in the frame. If it's all there and doesn't click flip the metal spring washer over. Verify via schematic as I'm out and going by memory.

The new reel may feel a little smoother but extra power is just perception. Gear ratio, size, spool diameter, handle length can all affect the feel as well.

Performance wise you'd be hard pressed to find a difference. I haven't seen a schematic of a CII but in pat models a bearing supported main drive shaft was one of the refinements the curado offered but easily added for $7 during a service.

High ratio doesn't automatically equate to radically higher ipt so you have to take it all into consideration. It's personal preference but doesn't have much if any to do with new gears or wearing out a reel IMO. All x ship is a bearing supporting the top of an elongated ponion. Daiwas been doing it for years. Experiment and find what works for you. It's half the fun.

10# will dive deeper and handle better but will be less resistant to abrasions. Depending on conditions either lighter line or a more supple line and conditioner may be the answer.

Medium means different things to different brands. Check the lure weight range and do some testing to get s feel for yourself what casts well. You can then successfully present a range of spinners , jigs, plastics and some top waters.

In a simple spiral the second (bumper) guide is just to keep the line off the blank and should not be load bearing. The end result is the straight path you seek from stripper to runner.

Line weight labels are almost useless on a freshwater Rod. All they do is give a basic idea what purpose the Rod was designed for. If guides come off during a hookset or any other fishing motion it's due to poor build quality or mishandling not over lining.

Ok. I think it's just a matter of semantics. What you call up and down , I would call back and forth. If the AR clutch bearing is contaminated cleaning and proper line should cure the problem. On reels with a pressed in bearing they can be cleaned in place. Don't force them out as the bearing and side plate are sold as one unit.

G loomis stopped selling blanks years ago. There are equally good blanks available though. Anything not stock on a gl blank would better be described as modified than custom. That type of seat is called a split seat. I find them less comfortable and harder to install. They are largely love'em or hate'em.

The centrifugal brakes on the S are more user friendly IMO. I'd use that for distance casting and put the SX (mag brakes) on a pitching/ flipping setup. Set the spool tension with the mags off then start at 50% braking.