Delaware Valley Tackle

Surface prep? Cure time? Same model/series as well as brand? There are so many things that can go wrong with a paint job, that's why I avoid them.

You can get by with one or the other. In general, casting tackle handles heavier tackle (12#> line) with less hassle. They're just different tools for different circumstances. It's not either/or for me. IMO mastering different types of tackle (casting, spinning, fly and center pin all catch bass for me) is part or the fun and enhances the overall fishing experience.

The rule of thumb is to set drag at 1/3 of line bereaking weight. For example 5# of drag for 15# line. You have to use a little discretion with braid. I leave what my gut tells me will protect the weakest link in the setup (line, leader, rod reel etc) Except for punching mats or slop frogging I rarely use more than 5-7 #s of drag here in the N.E.

Instead of reinventing the wheel I'll send you here: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html This will answer your question and then some.

Well stated. The guide train on a spinning rod is critical to top performance. Guide height, diameter and spacing are ideally adjusted according to reel, line rod length and to some extent power and action. Of course an off the shelf rod needs to accomodate the "average" fisherman, but who excatly is that? The answer will vary from maker to maker and so will the design and implementation of concepts and components. You should't by or at any concept based on one or two experiences that may not be the best reperesentation.

Power Pro is a Shimano product so they're doing a little cross marketing there. I like the way braid handles on a spinning reel period. The heavier/ stiffer the mono being replaced, the more the braid stands out as an advantage. Pflueger President is a great bang for the buck in spinning reels, Shimano's self contained AR assembly and worm gear oscillation in mid level and up models are nice features, and I like Daiwa's Air Bail. If you have $70 and up budgeted it's hard to go to far wrong and you can spool it with whatever suits the conditions and application.

They're a decent reel. I own one myself. The T-wing isn't the casting super charger the marketing claims, but I knew that. As far as I can see the T should be durable, but as stated only time will tell.

You'd be the talk of the docks at least. lol

I recommend not running the drag on lock down as it puts undue strain on the whole rig. If you feel you must I'd let the tension off when you're done. If it's on a normal setting between trips don't sweat it.

X2 Reels don't cast baits, rods do

Happy Fathers Day everyone!

If I remember they are both dual braking. I'm not positive without looking if they are identical to one another but both will have brake parts found in other models of both brands in some configuration.

BB1 pro is probably comparable to an STX but the Lew's has a deeper spool, longer handle and aluminum frame as opposed to alloy. The internals will be identical.

It's not a bad reel at the price point. It's a standard graphite framed budget reel. If you can scrounge up another $20 I'd get a BPS Pro Qualifier on sale. More bang for the buck.

If I were to bet, I lean towards 1. There are dozens of models when you combine all the brands made there so it can be dicey comparing apples to apples among them. I don't believe for a second that the QC level is intentionally raised or lowered by anyone. One of the options distributors seem to have is lubrication. Revos tend to be loaded and the lews are much more conservative (dry would be a bit of an over statement). That's all the sticky clutch is. Nothing a good cleaning won't take care of. I know guys that love their GMC truck but swear at Chevy's. The Revo Lews debate is the same deal.

Some epoxies cure harder than others but to get the best finish the two parts must be measured carefully to a 1:1 ratio and mixed thoroughly. Do not thin with solvents. An outdoor urethane will deliver the hardest and clearest finish but can be too hot for some paints.

Have you tried calling Shimano? What parts are you looking for? Email me if you want and I'll see if I can point you toward a couple other parts suppliers.

I like a similar power and action for jigs and spinner-baits and a chatter bait would fall into the same category. I don't buy into the delayed hookset / pulling the bait from the fish theory. If you're missing strikes on a moving bait there's something else at play (color, size, fish mood etc.) If a bass really wants a bait none of us has the reflexes to beat him to it.

For a one shot deal It's a better bang fir the buck to have the reel serviced and the bearings installed in the process. Slapping bearings into an un-serviced reel is penny wise / pound foolish.

That's a good deal on a good rod. I'd grab it and make use of it. They rate that rod at 1/4-3/4 which is fairly accurate. I don't like pushing a jig rod to close to it's max just because they start feeling mushy. It will work well for all but the heaviest jigs you listed and be passable with those in sparse cover.

The Minima4 (double swaged) guides are a favotite among lots of rod builders. Use them with confidence with whatever your preferred line is.

Call Lew's, order a new spool and run the stock bearing after flushing in place and adding light oil.

Lol. Olive oil is a stretch for sure, but there is nothing about a reel that requires any super special or advanced lubricant technology. it's a pretty basic environment and applicaction.

I like the translucence of threads with no CP but never saw one disappear so completely. Happy accident it was.

Anything with a sturdy frame and good drag that feel good in your hands will work. You don't need anything too specific here. That's the one application where I can tolerate mag only braking, otherwise I prefer centrifugal brakes.