Delaware Valley Tackle

Reels are not intended to work the way you describe. Sudden stoppage of a fast spinning handle causes the pinion gear to slip on the drive pin. It's normal. As for play in the handle I can't quite visualize the problem as its described.

Neither damage to the guide nor knot is of any concern. Fish on.

Ceramics have an advantage in salt water if/when the need to replace them comes. Keep equipment rinsed, dry and lubricated and you should be fine. No special product is needed for bearings.

It should wash off. sooner you get it the easier cleanup will be.

Quality wise they're all on par with one another. It comes down to features and preference. If your a diy maintenance person the tatula is the least convenient and the citica is probably the easiest.

It depends on what you're jigging and where you're jigging it as well as personal preference. I don't care for a broomstick even for punching. On the other hand, over loading a rod can make it feel mushy and less sensitive. If you're fishing really heavy cover you need to be prepared to get them out once hooked. ABU rods lean toward the higher end of lure weight ratings compared to some other similarly labeled rods. The MH should be fine for a 3/8 jig.

x2 this is the way to go.

All good options. On a really tight budget, the CRB blanks are better than the price might lead you to believe.

To make long casts (clear shallow water spooky fish) 7'; for short range casting or vertical fishing (drop shot etc) 6'8". I also prefer slightly shorter for jerking the fluke baits.

Use the muskie rod. I'm working on designing one for a client now that will likely be on a 9' 2-4oz graphite surf blank matched up with a Revo Beast.

You can make your own bands by slicing surgical tubing. Double it over to make the tip guides tighter. I also use elastic thread. Tie them snug above where the guide will rest and slide it down into place.

The rod may have something to do with it too. Make sure it has the power and action to get a good hookset. If I remember the hooks you'r e using aren't too heavy but it's definetely part of the equation.

Baitcasters aren't naturally prone to excell throwing finesse baits and it takes some refinement to to so. Hence the higher price for BFS reels. That's not to say though that all high end reels are finesse reels, but it can be argued that there is less to be gained performance wise when throwing more traditional casting baits. High end reels are an enthusiast purchase for the most part with definite diminishing return on the cost.

Glass and Mod action doesn't necessarily equal soft and whippy. The rod in that video doesn't sound like like your everyday off the rack deep cranking rod. What works for you is what really matters and only some experimenting will tell for sure. Also, just to be accurate, "parabolic" rods bend in an even arch all the way into the handle. Some short standup salt rods work that way but no bass rods. What is mistakenly referred to as "parabolic" is really a Mod action.

That technique specific stuff is all subjective. In fact the terms fast and extra fast are subjective themselves. I just don't feel like the fastest action you can find is critical to this application. I don't find a mod. action necessary to keep them hooked up as you're not dealing with trebel hooks and a big crankbait body being wipped around.

My recommendation for chatterbaits would be the same as for spinnerbaits: M or MH fast action (not too fast). Rod power based on size of bait and cover. The terms M / MH etc are subjective and change brand to brand so lust look at the numbers and see how it feels. I tried a slower action spinnerbait rod over the weekend and reminded myself why I don't like them. I don't precsribe to the "pulled the bait away from the fish" theory. If they want it, you'll know it. If they don't, you'll know that too and adjust accordingly.

Right, this isn't a very specialized application and those are all quality reels. It comes down to features, what feels good in your hand, and of course the deal.

MLF format and rules are great but it's a made for TV product. The same format won't translate to the everyday tournament.

What part of the country? Reservoir, lake or River?

Anytime. Glad it worked out for you.

That's right. Those plastic tabs are brake shoes. No shoe / no friction / no braking. Unless you run all the brakes on, missing 1 or 2 won'y affect fishability at all. Academy should be able to put you in contact with the source for parts. I'm not sure who manufactures those. Silstar maybe.

Here's a great bang for the buck and will do what you want and more.

Careful John, you might offend member Fishesintrees.

Fluoro is a poor choice for small topwater baits like this for the exact reason you see. Braid works but can foul in the trebels. Try braid and a short leader of mono for the best of both worlds.

The braid won't slip that easily. Chances are there is a spacer(s) missing from inside the tension cap. Being new I'd just bring it back and try to get them for some line that was wasted as well. The alternative is to go to the Quatum site, look at the schematic and see what's missing and replace it.