Delaware Valley Tackle

X2. In this list, the MHX- HM and Batson are a notch above the other two IMO. The Pheonix K2 blanks are nice but double the budget (but not performance)

Email me or give a call in the evening and I'll walk you through a guide replacement.

You don't want to epoxy an entire blank. That would be too heavy. If anything, you'd use Permagloss etc. A wrap and/or just a finish over the rough spot in front of the handle is not a bad idea but at this point I would just pick and choose spots along the blank and decide on each if they are worth addressing. Go ahead and fish it. If it breaks, all you're out is some time really.

Here's another recent thread on the same topic: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/149192-jerkbaits-rip-baits-rod-taper-action/

If you're looking for a reel to pass along to the next generation I'd probably give the Curado the nod. Primarily due to the dual bearing supported pinion. Features wise, the STX may have the edge, full floating spool, dual braking etc. In use on a day to day basis, they're close performance wise. Then it comes down to preference.

I forgot about the spool shaft difference as well. One more reason to just buy a reel made to do what you want.

It's near impossible to say without seeing the reel. A Deep Cleaning is $19.80 for members here if you'd like to send it in.

It's not really cost effective to do gear swaps when the model alternative model exists. If you decide to go that route I think the Revos of the same Generation will accommodate the Winch gear set but I'd check to be certain. The Gear set is probably around $40 from ABU. At least one of the metal drag washers needs replacing as well. My recommendation would be to buy a Winch, Lews or even PQ equivalent.

Some Marine grease works well on gears, Gear oil on level wind, sliding parts and frame bearings and Rem oil / 3in1 for spool bearings are things you may have around the house and are fine for a reel or two. If you want to get into specialty lubes (although there really is no need) Super Lube is a synthetic grease, Ree-X Oil and Rocket Fuel Yellow & Tsi 321 are some popular products. Use only Drag Specific grease on wet drags (Cal's / Shimano).

A fast or XF action doesn't necessarily mean a stiff tip. Finding the Fast or XF action combined with a relatively soft tip is the key IMO to getting the best action from jerk baits. I feel like I have more control and can fine tune the action of the bait this way. A Mod fast action works fine for a more ripping action where the bait moves feet instead of inches, but I can do either with the faster action. Picking the right power rod, good drag settings and fish fighting habits can mostly offset the advantages a slower action would provide.

Yup, this is where I was going. I'd even go as far as 3/4 oz lob casts to get the feel

Another stumbling block is trying to do too much too fast. Don't try to bomb casts. Concentrate on smoothness and accuracy. Also, if you can, tell something about the rod and weight you are trying to cast. If the rod doesn't load properly you instinctively try to force or muscle the cast and that can contribute to backlashes. You can certainly catch fish with all casting or all spinning tackle, but there is a sense of satisfaction and fun in mastering different types of tackle and I'd expand the idea to include fly, center-pin and even trolling tackle.

Denatured alcohol is the harshest solvent I use on a blank and will work on cork sometimes but the best for cork is a Mt Clean Magic Eraser. I'd put a wrap and some epoxy over the suspect spots and hope for the best. If the fibers aren't compromised you might be ok.

Braid will perform equally well on either size reel. However, if you want to go to smaller spinning reels you are correct that 10#> line doesn't manage as well on them.

Under and around docks is one of my favorite places to throw a Fluke usually pearl.

There are other techniques you can use to do thread inlays and trim wraps besides underwraps. On heavy boat rods where an underwrap may be appropriate finish on the underwrap makes the guide wraps pack a lot easier.

Nothing that replaces regular service. The thing I do differently with salt water reels is coat all surfaces with a film of oil or grease as opposed to just contact surfaces.

You can get a Fuji tip repair kit with assorted tops and adhesive for a few bucks. All epoxy will yellow eventually. It's not a problem unless it cracks and moisture gets in and loosens the guide at which point a rewrapping is in order.

What do you mean by spool housing? The side case screw that goes in from inside the frame? You get it with the smallest EZ out you can find.

Any of the reels in the $100> range are quality. You can't go too far wrong. I will agree though that the Tatula is a good bang for the buck right now.

Good job on the abalone. I forgot about boiling as the veneer is supposed to soften with heat. at any rate I'm glad it worked for you

Do you make all your decisions based on rumors even in spite of your personal experience?

In-shore / Saltwater approved etc. does not mean invincible as you've found out the hard way. Any reel used in salt water should be rinsed immediately after use, set out to dry, and fully serviced at least annually. The ding in the spool may or may not affect performance depending on location and severity. A spool is probably around $40 if needed. The cost to service the reel is $19.80 for members here plus shipping and any other parts. It's [probably worth saving even if only as a backup. I'll be happy to help if you'd like. Just promise, no more mallets on reels.

If you want to experience reels truly different from Lews/ABU look at some Daiwa, Shimano or Quantum models. Maybe a Pinnacle. Everything else is pretty much based off one of the other platforms.

I thought the same thing. Some of the comments in the thread are irrelevant to spinning reels, but the basic line twist avoidance tips still apply. I don't like to go any heavier than 8# mono/fluoro on bass spinning tackle and much prefer braid for casting, line handling and sensitivity contrary to my prior post regarding spin-cast reels (Zebco etc.)