Delaware Valley Tackle

Ratio wise these are identical in practical terms. I don't know the line retrieve IPT but doubt they are significantly different. The only application where ratio / IPT make a noticeable difference is deep cranking (DD22's etc) and a few other high resistance baits. For these a "Cranking" reel with a ratio of 5.x:1 or IPT in the 18-20" +/- range make fishing these baits a little more enjoyable. Some people prefer a a faster reel for picking up slack when jig fishing but that's more of a preference than a mechanical advantage.

The question as worded in the OP is impossible to answer. Once you get $50> for spinning reels and $100> for casting reels the quality takes a big jump and it's hard to go wrong. History has proven the Calcutta/Cardiff and Ambassaduers as well as the Daiwa SS and Penn Spinfisher, but agian, only time will tell on the current models.

$60 is a little thin budget wise for a quality bait cast reel. A lightly used PQ, revo S or citica etc will get you more bang for your buck.

Line weights are listed for line capacity reference points. I fish 20lb braid on spinning reels with no problems at all. Mono/fluoro over 10 doesn't handle well on spinning reels smaller than 4000 size reels and aren't usually of any benefit in the presentations I use spinning tackle for.

I build my jerkbait rods on a fast action popping blank which has a soft albeit fast tip.

I can do bearings and a Carbontex drag plus deep cleaning w/ tsi321 treatment for $50 bucks apiece. You can send the spool to have the bearing mounted. This will save the cost of the tool and possible damage to the spool.

You can get a heck of a nice custom for that kind of money if not less.

The highest quality ML/XF 7' micro guide rod you can afford

Power is not a concern with the heavy braid. 65 might be an advantage abrasion wise if you're dragging across wood.

Mastering various forms of tackle opens options and enhances the overall fishing experience imo. In fly fishing it's the line you're casting so don't skimp on that. The reel just holds the line so no need to break the bank there. I suggest a reel with changeable cartridges though so you can change lines. As for the rod, a well built 5wt is a good multi purpose.

Lately I find myself leaning toward a ML/XF as my go to spinning rod. It depends a little bit on the model as the specs are subjective.

Lately I find myself leaning toward a ML/XF as my go to spinning rod.

I see Ajays point but as drag washers and tension shims wear the repeatability lessens. Clicking adjustments are a perceived sign of quality to a number of people but it's another personal preference when you get right down to it.

He's right. You need to add to the spool spacer stack. You should be able to find thin nylon washers at the hardware store. If you find line stacking on the opposite end you've added too much.

There's no need for a reel specific lube. There's Nothing magic in it. If you have a wet drag system you can use drag grease on the gears but don't use multi purpose grease on drags. Otherwise marine grease is a little more water resistant and synthetic like Superlube is good. A light oil like Remoil or even sewing machine oil will work on bearings. Gear oil works well on levelwinds and sliding parts.

Quality and performance wise they are both good choices. It comes down to features and the deal. Generally the Lews are priced lower than the Revos on a feature for feature basis.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone here at Bass Resource! May you and yours be Blessed this holiday season and in the New Year. Sincere thanks to all who make this forum possible and what it is: The single best bass fishing forum (or forum of any kind in my limited experience) on the web. Here's looking forward to 2015! Mike

At least it's not one of your nice custom grips!

What rod are using? That may be the culprit if casting is a problem.

What is your current rod choice and what leads you to believe the rod is the cause for lost fish? Replacing a treble with a straight shank hook and split ring may help. Or possibly sharper, better quality trebles. I fish jigging spoons the same way I do any other jig: on a fast action in a power appropriate for the bait weight and cover.

A-Rigs, Swimbaits, musky, catfish... any app where a high line capacity is desired.

Yup. What I believe you're referring to is the rods improved "speed" as in frequency not action.

IMO the biggest bank for your buck would be some higher quality second hand tackle. Although, the Academy house brand gets love from a number of good anglers, I can't speak directly to them as they aren't in my area.

Being a skeptic at heart, early on I did just this and built a Med / F spinning rod with "standard" guides, test cast and fished it. Then stripped and rebuilt it with "Micro" guides (middle of the road 4.5's) and definitely saw and felt the difference. I can now recommend and use them wherever appropriate. As for fragility, quality guides of whatever size are important. In my experience any handling practices that can break guides are at least as likely to cause blank damage and failure.

X2 Micro vs. Standard / Braid vs Mono / Tungsten vs Lead / etc. It's all a game of inches, no one factor will likely be make or break. Rather, the most efficient setup you can build may tip the scales in your favor or just make the experience that much more enjoyable.