Delaware Valley Tackle

Why not just take it up with ABU directly?

This is especially true in spinning rods. I don't know if this article addresses static testing as well, but the ability to perform that step is one of the advantages of a custom build.

Lots of customs obviously, but use equipment / components from: ABU Garcia, Quantum, Mitchell, Pfleuger, Okuma, Shimano, BPS, American Tackle, Lamiglas, MHX, Batson, Forecast, a few bamboo customs and probably a few I've missed.

I'm not sure what production rod would come close, but my current favorite is on a high modulus 7'1" blank rated "Mag Med-Light" and has a Fast - X-Fast tip. It handles light baits very well yet has a ton of power in the butt.

Actually, if anything, NOT having them adds functionality to a lighter rod. The affect is less dramatic on the butt of a rod but the weight of multiple layers of epoxy is something you just don't want on a typical bass, trout etc. rod.

X2 This is a good analogy of psyching yourself out. I use a baseball analogy. A fly ball you have to sprint for seems easy because you're running on instinct. A supposed "easy" fly ball hit right at you gets dropped because you over think it as it's coming in.

Intricate thread wraps are tedious work. Honestly, I concentrate more on performance designs and use grip and trim material to trim out builds.

There's no right or wrong to pretty much any of this. Personal preference rules at the end of the day and experimenting is half the fun. When it comes to bass fishing, A cranking reel is a lot more pleasurable to use deep cranking all day, but beyond that it's kinda splitting hairs imo.

I've also seen some stuff done with materials from the sewing or craft section but it needs to be well sealed with CP to avoid reaction with the epoxy. Best bet is a rod building supplier like Scott said.

It'll work. Don't stress about lubricant brand. Keeping parts clean is most important.

Judging from the video I was sent the pinion is not fully disengaging from the spool. The cause can't be determined remotely. Intermittent problems are the hardest to diagnose.

One wrap of tape won't make any difference in the spool capacity and is a better choice than tying to the ported spool. All you need is a little traction for the braid so it doesn't slip.

Where do you get your weights?

A DT4 is just over a 1/4 ounce which likely within, but near the minimum the lure casting range for a typical MH. The rods I build for that application are a "Med" moderate-fast graphite. Something like this combined with a properly maintained and setup (possibly tuned) reel and soft line should maximize casting distance for you. Super long casts aren't as important here as they are for deep divers though.

Right, then there's the rest of the components and overall build quality to consider. Basically shop the same way you would for an unfamiliar brand.

X2 I believe in confidence leading to bites in as far as keeping you from wasting time retying, changing colors, moving around and throwing random baits all without reason. The confidence bred from success that JF talked about is key in over coming these distracting urges.

I concur, Recoils or Minima 4 are as light as you'll find given the mandate. If you go with Minimas be sure to get the 4 as they are double swaged. And yes, use a ringed guide. The Fuji Titanium Torzite is as hard and light as you'll get there. The double wraps and finish required only compound the negatives, but you've given your advice so all you can do is let the client decide.

That looks like one of the M spinning / MH casting situations I mentioned in my post. You have to get bit first before getting them in is a factor so it comes down to how light a rod will handle the baits you're talking about.

That's a good example or repurposing something you're not using. My only question is where do put all the rest of them?

I find myself going more and more toward ML power rods for spinning tackle. I use them on the outside weed edges and even deeper in lilly pad pockets with no problem. They present the small baits better and I have better feel and contact with lighter baits. I use my medium spinning rods the way a lot use MH casting rods, but when the wind is making casting a pain.

Don't cut off any more than you have to. Tip top repair kits are cheap enough and easy to use. I'd put a top on and remove the first guide. If you really don't want to mess with it using a tied on guide as the top is not unheard of. We did it rather often before micro tops were available.

My full rate for Super Tuning is $34, $30.40 for members here. (shipping is extra).

Periodic cleaning of the drum and shoes on a reel with centrifugal brakes is SOP. A swab with some alcohol followed by film of light oil should take care of it. Depending on conditions I wouldn't be surprised for that to last more than 5 outings.

Fish eyes is kinda like beer goggles, only without the beer.

Done properly, there are no ill effects on performance or durability. The real advantage on the water to improved free spool is the improved accuracy that results from easier casting. Added distance is just icing on the cake IMO.