Delaware Valley Tackle

This is what I was referring to, graphite is a carbon material, so a company may use the terms interchangeably. What model reel do you have?

An even better choice.

In a spinning reel look for a rigid frame, likely aluminum or carbon fiber. Not all graphite frames are created equal. Some are flimsy some are pretty solid. I've also seen cast aluminum snap so material alone doesn't tell the whole story. A bearing supported pinion and main gears, worm gear driven level wind, balanced rotor, bearing supported line roller, a good smooth drag, roller clutch anti reverse, and a heavy duty bail wire. There are model specific features that may appeal to you as well but these are the quality indicators that come to mind right off the top of my head.

Pinnacle has been helpful to me in the past. They'll like comp you one if you call them.

Pretty much anyone has the intellect to change the oil in there car (way less involved than what we're talking about) yet what % of the population do it themselves? It's really got nothing to do with age, intelligence or coordination. Whether you lack the confidence or just the inclination to DIY this kind of stuff, there's no shame in just having it done for you, and likely with better results.

"Hybrid" when talking rod construction can be either glass/graphite or two different modulus graphite. Both methods are used to produce a desired action/power combos. Users of entry level tackle probably aren't the main demographic of forums in general so, yes, it's nice to see this kind of help being offered.

I don't even reinstall so called non-contact seals. Once open they're best left open. Whether or not to open them to begin with is the real question (and not always even possible). As a rule, I wouldn't bother opening shielded bearings. If they're quiet but not really spinning well after several soaks, removing the shields may help you save them and running them open is no big deal as long as maintenance is regular.

Hair bands, purses, I'm seeing a trend here.

FWIW, don't let Reel Magic, WD40 or any other brand of spray silicone anywhere near the internals of a reel. The solvents that make it spray-able will dissolve grease and oil. In fact, I've used WD40 as a degreaser. Water resistant grease, even ISO rated hydraulic oil is a better anti corrosion lubricant than Reel Magic etc. Now freeing up already corroded parts, that's another story.

Those bowfin are like one big muscle, plus they're pretty cooperative in the dog days of summer when the bass bite can die some.

It depends on your mechanical aptitude and willingness to take your time. Never open a reel without a schematic handy and keep in mind that they are mostly a parts list, not assembly instructions. Someone will inevitably post the link to Shimanos videos, which are just ok. Most reel models have what I call a "Gottcha" somewhere. That's not a super expensive reel to experiment with. Set aside enough time (probably a couple of hours first time) and document with pics and notes just how it came apart. Let me know if you get stuck and I'll try to talk you through.

There is no right or wrong. It's 100% personal preference. How you grip the rod and the feel you prefer vary too much person to person for there to be an exact science.

Line weight and rod power are linked to the extent of the application (target species, bait, cover etc) they are mutually appropriate for but not directly. A range of line weights can be considered for use on any given rod depending on specific application. I may throw a square bill in cover on a med rod and 15 pound line or a T rig in light cover with 12#. On the flip side, I wouldn't likely use the Med where I'd use 17-20# or the MH where I'd use 8-10# (not that you can't if you feel that's what circumstances call for).

Good call AAvery. I missed that. If you're comfortable taking the rest of the clutch apart it's an easy fix. If you want to send it in as is that's fine too.

I'll need to see the reel to diagnose. Members here get a 10% discount bringing the cost down to $19.80 plus shipping and parts of needed. If you'd like it repaired send it in at your convenience.

I can't see anything obviously broken or missing other than the disassembled parts. Are you saying that when you depress the thumb bar it pops back up locking the spool? The position you have pictured is the clutch disengaged putting the reel in free spool.

Vent? Exhaust Port? I'm getting all kinds of good material to annoy my wife with. Thanks guys!

Can I get an AMEN Brother?!

That's a top notch blank for sure. I find myself moving more and more from Med to ML power blanks for most of my personal spinning tackle.

Max casting distance is not irrelevant by any means, but there is no need to obsess over it like too many do.

Thoroughly combing an area at multiple angles with a fast moving crank or spinner can still be considered fishing "slow" compared to a run and gun approach.

If you're savvy enough you can often get Revo parts that drop right in. Goose deserves all the praise being offered and then some for seeing this through to the end. It's rare these days to find people that not only will commit to a long term endeavor, but have the self discipline to see it through on their own. It's also refreshing to see such unbiased reviewing or a product. Kudos Goose!

This is the way to go about picking a rod for an application. Hvy / MH etc really don't mean a thing because the terms are totally subjective. The sweet spot for casting weight is usually somewhere in the middle of the lure weight range and flipping and vertical jigging is more forgiving. Lure weight ratings are arbitrary as well but a more descriptive and usually close enough.

Sometimes the IPT of "Blazing fast" reels isn't much, if any higher. Check the IPT before buying on ratio alone.

Trim the arsenal down to 3 combos as suggested, and look to spend $500 of your $600 budget. Grab two BPS Pro Qualifiers in 5:1 & 6.4:1 on sale ($80 ea) and a Pflueger President Spinning reel ($60). Grab a $50-$75 cranking rod, and look for a couple St Croix Avids in the flea market etc. You'll get plenty of value from the reels and the rods could last you a lifetime without feeling the need to upgrade them (unless of course you want to).