Delaware Valley Tackle

Let add: Do not twist the top to remove it. Pull straight off. Do not overheat the blank. Keep the heat source moving back and forth across the glued area. Tip top tube sizes are in 64th of an inch and sometimes mm. The new top should slide on easily but not be sloppy. If you decide not to DIY it's a $5-$7 job for a rod or tackle shop.

A schematic won't do much more for you than you already mentioned in your post. They're really just a parts list. If you want to send it in I'll go all through it making sure everything is there and in good shape. Otherwise, you can contact me offline and I'll see if I can walk you through it some.

There will be either a rivet or a screw in the end of the grip securing it onto the handle. If a rivet has come out I'm not sure it's salvageable. An adhesive like JB Weld might hold. It's really impossible to say without seeing it.

Grip diameter is independent of whether it is a full or spilt grip. As for the stiffness, that's just one more illustration of the fact that there are no industry standards for rod specs so it's vital to do due diligence prior to purchase. If shopping site unseen, I'd order one at a time and ask lot's of questions. There's a lifetime of reading available here already and members are quick to respond with their experiences when asked. I know this is hind sight and doesn't help much with the current situation. All you can do right now is try each rod in a few likely applications and see what works for you and go from there.

Either should work for this purpose. It comes down to preference as it pertains to profile. I don't see line capacity being critical when throwing shallow cranks.

Like JF said, it likely just needs some attention as in cleaning and/or lubrication.

The first split grips were intended to aid two handed casting by placing the bottom hand consistently in the same spot. On modern rods they're a stylistic choice and a way to save on materials. The fore grip point is a good one. I like the direct contact with the blank for bass and lite tackle fishing but put fore grips on heavier rods for salmon, steel-head, pike etc. for the leverage and comfort against hard pulling fish.

You don't have to be able to outrun a bear, just your hunting partner.

Let me know when you ready to pull the trigger and I'll hook you up. (pun intended)

x2. That's a nice al around bass blank. Pretty stout for the Med power label.

If all else fails, act like you forgot it's there and go clean the frame. I can almost guarantee it will be gone when you go to reassemble. Don't ask how I know.

The bail spring gets compressed and decompressed with every cast regardless of whether it's tripped by cranking or closed by hand so there is wear and tear either way. Like JF said the newer designs hold up better and closing he bail manually aids in line management.

If the rod isn't level the epoxy will ball up on the low end of he wraps or develop a football shape. Split Tennessee grip?

Nice inlay design. I haven't done a lot with block stock. I gotta get off the dime on that.

As long as you stay with the same level of quality multi piece rods are every bit as good as their one piece counterparts. Scott is right about two piece having a touch more power. My guess is from the double wall where the ferrules are.

I can't see the frame being softer than the spring material. I think .ghoti is on the right path. I'd have to see it to really diagnose it though.

To me the sensitivity & handling of braid far outweighs any negatives. I have no problem fishing straight braid. If I do add a leader it's for abrasion resistance or so I can break off if fish a tx from the back of the boat. Never had a leader knot fail on a fish.

When I hire people I'd rather have someone bright enough to find an answer to something they don't know than someone who is educated on a narrow topic. The latter never knows everything, and is often clueless as to how to proceed.

Some shrinkage no doubt.

This formula with the K.I.S.S. principal is what I'd suggest. A handful of baits that allow you to cover the whole water column between them, in basic colors depending on water clarity.

Yup, You might enjoy it, but could probably bore someone to tears going on about line weights, tapers, line length, rod specs and how they affect casting. lol The learning curve may flatten out but will never end.

I'd contact your local DEC and get some guidance on the biology, feasibility and legality of what you'd like to do.

Yes, that's an important point. It used to be strictly straight back and straight forward strokes to be done "right". But like others I know, I use a 3/4 arm stroke that feels more natural to me. As long as you cast on one plane (as in not swing the rod in an arc) you should be ok.

You'll still have to see a visual to get the idea, but in general, you accelerate to a stop on the back cast, wait for the line to straighten and load the rod, then accelerate to a stop on the forward cast, let the line straighten and then lower the rod to lay the line down on the water. The movement comes from the elbow, not flicking your wrist back and forth. The best explanation I've seen is from Steve at Tightline Flyshop.

BTW the fall rate of anything "weightless" is by definition - 0 -