Delaware Valley Tackle

Deep cranking is one of the few presentations where the longest cast possible is really a benefit. 7-7'6" is what I recommend for "cranking" rods. A med or MH, moderate action is what I usually build for deep diving cranks and a Mod-fast for shallow square bills, and traps around grass.

I'd lean toward the senko spawn & immediate post spawn. Once they've had some time to recuperate the Red Eye Shad or kickin' Minnow might get a reaction bite

Welcome John! You have some good water out your way and as well as several local members. Good luck.

Not being a golfer, I can only guess but I don't think the analogy is 100%. It works in that you need different tools for each job but pretty much ends there. My gut tells me 3 iron clubs are more consistently similar than are Med/Fast rods for example. Then, there is disagreement about which power an action is best for a presentation. A line like St Croix for instance is very robust, possibly allowing you find what you need for all your applications. But, maybe not.

Pick up a Pflueger Trion spinning reel and spool it up with 6-8# Trilene XL and mount on a Med/fast rod. When you're ready for the next step pick up a BPS Pro Qualifier baitcast reel in 6.4 or 7:1 on sale ($70 +/-), some 12# Trilene XT and a MedHvy/Fast casting rod. These should get you going inexpensively, but will remain serviceable as your skill and needs evolve.

Nice!

Dan, Welcome to the forums. I've sent a PM as well. It looks like a 7' MH (or Medium depending on manufacturer)/Fast rod with a nice light guide train is what will fill your need. The Core is sweet reel and will be part of a nice setup. The point of diminishing returns on a factory rod is closer to $275-$300 IMO. Be wary of paying for name, unsubstantiated claims and expensive replacement programs called "warrantees".

The Orra is probably the safer bet between those two, but still would consider a PQ.

If you have a threaded handle you have to hold the rotor and screw the handle into the gear (assuming it is threaded to accept the handle)

The Winch is a great cranking reel but even used, $100 is pushing it. The BPS PQ comes in 2 low ratio / IPT configurations and must be on sale still. I'm not positive but don't think the Skeet Revo came in a cranking ratio.

They aren't the same handle. One screws into the gear shaft and the other is held on on the bolt threads on the cap on the opposite side. Try swapping side caps.

You might end up liking a popping blank for this application. Typically a popping blank has a fast action but softer tip. This might work well ripping off the grass. I usually use a mod-fast graphite blank for shallow cranks & traps. Let us know how you make out.

Leader knots won't hurt a guide ring. Inadvertently reeling a swivel or weight into the tip might knock one out. The majority of issues are the result of banging around during normal use or being stepped on etc.

If the tackle is heavy enough, yes. I prefer baitcasting tackle for the heavier (1/2oz> / 12# line>) tackle but spinning can work. If I flip to cover with a spinning setup I'll open the bail with the line roller on the bottom so when you close the bail the line doesn't have to loop over the top of the spool.

Also, don't pull too hard on braid. If a knot forms and tightens it's game over.

The original split grip was intended to improve two handed casting by placing the rear hand consistently on the butt grip. In modern use split grips are use aesthetically and to reduce the cost by using less (and often lower grade) cork.

Fish new reels out of the box to eliminate the chance of any warranty issues. After the first season have it deep cleaned and properly lubed to maximize performance and longevity.

U40 cork seal is a water based polymer, easy to apply and lasts well

Yes, warm water and a mild detergent are fine for rod cleaning. For stubborn stains denatured alcohol is safe. over the winter a coat of car wax and a buffing keeps thing looking good and easier to clean. Damaged guide inserts call for replacement of the guide.

Yup, that's the way to clear a backlash. One thing he failed to mention though is that the drag needs to be locked down for this to work.

I can't tell you off the top of my head if those gear sets are interchangeable, but I can tell you that replacing the Smoke gears is a temporary fix. The 'geary" feel is just how they are. It won't hurt anything, but is something some guys just can't tolerate. The best recommendation I can make is to have the reel deep cleaned and properly lubed. As for moly grease, molybdenum disulfide (moly) is an additive used in some greases to enhance it's lubricating properties and load carrying capacity. It's probably overkill for a reel but won't hurt if you want to go that route.

I'd consult law and tax professionals to ensure tax exempt status. I assume you'd need bylaws with specific rules governing membership so as not to have some control over the culture of the club without opening the club or yourselves to discrimination claims. I'd also map out a club charter and define the club's purpose and leadership structure. I'm sure this just scratches the surface but are my observations as a past club member and officer (secretary).

Wow! That's a slew of biiiiig perch.

Now you see why we luv us some smallies up here.

This number? Even though it's ABU's number the same folks answer the calls. Pflueger® Customer Service 1900 18th Street Spirit Lake, IA 51360 305 (800) 554-4653 Try this number: n the U.S. Abu Garcia Customer Service 1900 18th Street Spirit Lake, IA 51360 (800) 228-4272 abugarcia@purefishing.com