Delaware Valley Tackle

No way should a gear set need annual replacement as a matter of regular maintenance. Whoever is telling you that is untrained or just giving lip service.

The co-poly lines are a good way to go, but don't let the myths about braid cutting guides sway you. Modern braids and guides make this pretty much a non-issue. 50# braid is easy to manage and you can always add leaders where appropriate. When you do get the occasional backlash just be sure not to yank on it or you'll be respooling sooner rather than later.

Changing brands is not a bad idea, while at it I'd step up the line weight a little and be sure to wet your knots. I'd also go with a Palomar or something else better than the clinch for fluoro.

Same goes for any reel with a full floating spool. On the flip side, Quantum owners want to change both case bearings and the one in the frame behind the spool.

The Carbon drags that come in stock reels are really good, however I still often upgrade them with Carbontex from Smoooth Drag as if you look closely the weave is different and I do see some improvement.

I don't think anything lives up to the hype especially when it comes to fishing . IMO if you want a higher end reel there are bigger bangs for the buck.

A drop-shot is a terminal rig that can be varied to suit different situations, but in its most popular form of vertical finesse fishing from a boat using electronics, a 6'9" ML/XF is ideal. The same rod can be used to cast small jigs or small weightless plastics as well.

It doesn't take much to contaminate the tight tolerances in modern reels. It's worth looking into before jumping the gun on a replacement. I can't see how setting the hook will affect brake settings so there's something else at play here.

I'll cast 2 handed casting for distance but usually a back hand, roll cast or pitch.

Even though the warranty is expired I'd give it a shot. If you decide to repair it let me know.

The PQ's on sale again and built much better. They're such a value I have a hard time justifying the lesser models

I've seen sooo many spools damaged by trying to remove that pin it aint funny. A good pro service will do as much for a reel as new bearings with nothing else. The Capt. is right on regarding the value of pro servicing. I can't think of another technical vocation that works for so little per/hr.

Loosen the cast control cap before replacing the side cover. Sometimes this relieves slight binding.

Just for kicks you can hook up to a spring scale and measure the weight needed to move the drag. After a few tests you can tell by feel to get close enough. 5-8 lbs of drag is plenty for general bass fishing. I wouldn't recommend locking down the drag or pressing the thumb-bar while a fish is pulling. That's a good way to wreck a pinion gear or something else.

You can get by with all spinning or casting but it's just that, getting by. Not to the same level, but it's a little like getting by with 1-2 rods. To me, being proficient with all types of fishing tackle enhances the over all experience. I have casting, spinning, spin-cast, center-pin, and fly tackle and employ all of them throughout the year. At the end of the day though it's your personal preference.

"micro" is used to refer to a range of guide sizes. A #4 guide will easily pass an Albright knot joining braid and a leader. If you had the ability to build the exact same blank with 'micros" and standard guides to compare, you'd see the difference a lighter guide train makes in sensitivity and balance.

I've seen the posts about this but haven't seen it first hand. If you're sure the tabs were snapped into place by all means swap it.

If heavy power is appropriate for the weight of the bait and cover being fished, the casting style shouldn't matter.

You may not have put the drag stack back properly or may have oiled or otherwise contaminated the washers. Unless you don't fish very much one service in 5 years is likely inadequate. If you'd like it checked out feel free to send it in.

The power needed depends on the size bait, cover and expected size of fish to be caught. Ex: a 1/8 hair jig in open water would be fished on a med power most likely, on the other hand, a 1oz football jig fished in pads for 5lb> Florida bass might be fished on an XH. Then there's everything in between.

Anything you would throw a swimbait of similar weight on will work well.

I just serviced one this week. The twitching bar uses a A/R bearing just like the main shaft and it was rusted/corroded causing sticking. The rest of the reel is pretty unrefined. The twitch gear is 5:1 to the main gear (5 twitches = 1 full turn of crank). Bottom line is the twitch bar is gimmicky and the over all quality of the reel is on Daiwa's lower end, which isn't horrible.

I believe that's a 5000. There are whole websites devoted to vintage tackle and even Ambassedeurs alone. You might get an expert opinion there.

Match your line to the presentation and conditions. For finesse presentations in relatively open water 6# is appropriate.

This will be interesting. Currently the Core is in a good competitive spot as a high end reel vs the Steeze, MGX etc.