Delaware Valley Tackle

If you decide to paint a reel be sure the over-spray doesn't get where parts mate together or tolerances do not allow.

If the braid's not connected to the reel I don't see any advantage. A system is only as strong as the weakest link which in your scenario is the main line, rather the knot connecting the main line.

To me, strike detection is harder with a jig than a T-rig even if the weight is pegged.

Ha, beat me too it. Only I threw mine back!

The current Chronarch is same reels as the E7 Curado with only very minor differences. If you're on a budget you can pick up a Citica that will catch just as many fish as the other two. Whether or not the next model up is worth the money is really a personal preference. Shimano has a neat thing on the website that lets you compare models specs side by side.

If the grip is held on with a rivet you're out of luck. Scott Havonec makes some nice cork grips for the Ci4.

I give line visability (to the fish) very little consideration. When I do it's more of a confidence thing when finesse fishing super clear open water, and then it's usually just a leader. I think heavy line moves water and affects the action of finesse baits, so I'm a believer in down sizing line diameter but have seen no proof in studies or personal experience that lead me to believe bass see fishing line or are bothered by it if they do.

These specs are irrelevant for the most part and have no direct correlation to rod ratings which are completely subjective. Scrim, resins, mandrels, processes, components and layout all affect the finished product. All the IM and Modulus talk is marketing, ignore it. Look for a rod with a light finished weight that pairs well with the reel you'll use. Don't rule out "micro" guide rods especially for jig/plastics etc. Any rod ratings available are totally subjective and unfortunately there are no industry standards. Trial and error along with experienced feedback are the only real gauge you can use. There is a system called "Common Cents" gaining a foothold primarily in fly fishing. The cents refers to a US penny as a weight of measure for power, action resonance etc. The goal is to apply a quantifiable unit of measure in place of subjective term like medium, heavy, slow, fast etc. Some custom rod shops can do the measurements for you but there is no meaningful database yet especially for casting/spinning rods.

The Veritas uses what is called a skeleton seat. They are a love'em or hate'em proposition. I use them on some custom builds and have to be sure the barrel (threaded section) is positioned correctly to avoid the problem you have here.

The internals of the 50 & 200 size reels are identical. The only limitations are line capacity and gear ratios offered as stated above.

X2!

The potential gain of better free-spool depends largely on the casting ability of the user. If the speed can be harnessed and controlled you can get some added distance, but the biggest advantage is more accurate casts due to the lower physical force required. A lighter spool will aid in casting finesse baits because it will start up easier but are not for casting distance due to the lower inertia. Always have a schematic in front of you before opening a reel. If you can't get working bag it and send it in.

5-10 minutes soak with a swish or two. Keep changing fluid until it remains clear, you know they're clean then. Let them dry on a paper towel. A clean bearing in good condition should spin for several seconds, be nearly silent and roll to a gradual stop.

The Rage rods are built on the same blanks as the Avid line which are very good rods. Grip material and foreign labor help lower the price point a little bit. Some will argue the Mexican plant has lower QC standards but I haven't seen it. It's still a St Croix product which is among the best you can get.

x2. Ranks right up there with bearing count in reels. Higher modulus graphite has a higher stiffness to weight ratio which is where the greater sensitivity is derived from. Aside from the blank production variables already mentioned a poorly executed guide train and other aspects of the design can hinder a finished rods performance.

Foam spiders can be killer on sunnies. If I do use live bait I like mealworms over crawlers.

Don't be intimidated, take your time and enjoy learning something new. Couple tips: when you get a backlash don't try yanking it out, look up the "thumb trick". Peel off a casts worth of line plus some and tape the line down with electrical tape. This way a back lash can only get so deep. Good luck.

Check this out: http://news.msn.com/pop-culture/frankenfish-hooked-in-virginia-breaks-world-record 17lb 6oz what an ugly lookin' thing!

Sounds like you're talking about 1 1/2-2" off the tip. If you can't get a replacement you can try heating the tip and pull it off the broken piece. Odds are you'll need the next size up tube but you might get lucky. The new tip top should slide on easily but not flop around. They are held on with hot glue or epoxy. Epoxy is less ideal if future replacement is needed.

The internet is flooded with those 'watch my reel spin' videos and they mean very little. The comparison is almost always a higher grade bearing vs an over lubed, neglected stocker. Proper cleaning and lube of a reel should always be the first syep and is the only way to judge tghe effectiveness of upgrades. The biggest advantage of improved free-spool is in the accuracy os casts that require less physical force. If and when you choose to buy bearings, Boca is as good if not better than whatever else is out there plus they stand behind their products with a satisfaction gurantee. I sell them for 10% off retial to members here.

There is something to be said for sticking with what you know is a quality company and product, but there is a lot of good stuff out there so I don't feel the need to compromise too much. As far as over-the-counter rods go, St Croix has one of if not the single most robust product lines and are high quality and good service. As for reels, It's almost impossible to go wrong among the major brands if you're budget is $100>

The dual braking systems work independently from one another. The centrifugal brakes may eventually be set-it-n-forget-it but you'll have to experiment. Starting with 1/2 on is reasonable. With the mag off, set the spool tension so that the bait drops slowly with no over run when it hits the ground. The mag brake can be turned up gradually if throwing into the wind or throwing non-aerodynamic baits that slow quickly, spinnerbaits for example. Cent. brakes come on hard at the initial cast and then ease up as the spool slows. This is most effective in reducing backlash that results from the line feeding faster than the bait pulls it out. A mag brake exerts a constant drag on the spool speed. This is most beneficial in preventing over-run when the bait slows and the spool keeps feeding line. Neither by itself or together is a replacement for an educated thumb but between the 3 you should get good results.

The only way to make a true comparison between guides is the wrap the exact same blank (not similar) two times and test cast with same line, reel and baits. If a rod casts better with mono than braid the difference is most likely attributed to differences in reel spool diameter, height, and angle. In a custom build these measurements are each considered in the guide layout. I concur that "micro" guides are not a cure all but definitely have their place. It's important to keep in mind that "micro" refers to a range of guide sizes from 5.5 down. The smallest, lightest guide that will do the job allows the blank to retain as many of it's original properties as possible. The guide needs to pass the line and connections and be sturdy enough to stand up to the task. A well tied Albright joining 65# braid and 15# fluoro will pass through a #4 guide pretty easily.

X2

Welcome to the forum and the sport. Are you looking at baitcasting or spinning tackle? A MH/F casting setup is pretty versatile for bass fishing. $50 will get you a passable rod but a decent reel to go with it will set you back close to $100. Cheap baitcasters tend to frustrate new users and if not, you'll out grow the performance or just wear it out. They just aren't a good investment. You can find used Shimano Curado B's online for around $50 and they are built like a tank. For new a BPS Pro Qualifier on sale is one of the better values out there. The Berkley Lightning Shock seems to get decent feedback as far as budget rods go. http://www.berkley-fishing.com/products/rods-and-combos/rods/lightning-rod-shock There's hr upon hr of good reading on the site in articles as well as posts. Good luck!