Delaware Valley Tackle

100% UVA & B protection, polarization, distortion free shatter proof lenses can be found at affordable prices if fashion brand names aren't important. There's one big factory I think in France that makes something in the neighborhood of 90% of sunglasses. I did some research on this a while back and will post the details when I can lay my hands on the document.

Reels like the Pixy with shallow light weight spools are designed for casting light baits. The rod has more to do with casting than the reel does and <1/4oz probably isn't enough to load a MH rod. Be sure the weight you want to cast is somewhere in the middle of the mfg ratings.

It's all relative. The amount to be gained depends on the reel, its overall condition and design, the condition of the stock bearings and the caster's ability to harness the improved free-spool. The ABEC rating refers to the tolerances to which the bearing is manufactured. An ABEC5 ceramic hybrid is probably the most cost effective but the Orange Seal ABEC 7's are the best seller. I remove the seals and run the bearings dry for optimal performance.

Ya I hear that.

Not at all, when properly located spiral wrapped guides simply allow the line to travel the most natural path of least resistance and more often than not allows the use of 1-2 fewer guides saving tip weight. The idea of saving weight isn't a fatigue thing it's all about helping the blank retain as much as possible of it's inherent design qualities. The idea is not that a bass or weight of a reel is going to rip the rod from your hands it's just that the torqueing is indicative of the rod wasting energy keeping the line from doing what it naturally wants to do which is roll to the underside of the blank. It's not a magic cure all any more than micro guides, high modulus blanks, or anything else. It's just a piece of the puzzle for a more efficient & enjoyable to fish piece of tackle.

Year before last, a buddy and I caught a boat load of smallies on Dec 10th on jerkbaits and spoons.

Thanks for the kind words. There's no need to change bearings on a new reel but I recommend flushing them with acetone and re-lubing with a light oil. Add a drop after 4-6 trips or as performance dictates. You'll see a huge improvement just with this. To determine the condition of a bearing, after flushing let it dry completely and prior to lubing spin it on a pencil etc. It should spin freely and nearly silently for several seconds and slowly loose momentum. If in doubt flush again. If no improvement it's time to replace it.

A little splashed on the outside and rinsed off soon won't likely cause problems. If there's any chance in got to the internals I recommend a breakdown and re-lube.

In spinning I'd go with a medium power fast action rod and spool up with 20# braid. As for length, a longer rod 7-71/2' will cast further which can help from the banks but if you're bushwhacking a 6 or 6 1/2 may be better. You'll have to weight the trade offs and decide based on your areas.

The rod can be spliced and will perform as before if done correctly. It's too involved for a post but you can call or email for help. It involves an inner splice and over sleeve.

Low profile reels use relatively narrow spools so the angle of the line thru the worm gear guide isn't severe enough to affect casting in any noticeable way IMO. Daiwa makes quality reels but as far the T wing goes I can take it or leave it.

Boca also stands behind their product, one big reason I'm a dealer.

"Micro" is a generic term used to describe guides with a ring size >6mm. Than could be anything from a 5.5mm to a 1mm. 3mm are about the smallest you see in regular use. The guide size is the ID of the frame so the opening in the ring is less. The use of smaller guides is not a passing fad, it's been common practice among custom builders for some time. Just like baits and lines of different sizes one size does not fit every application. If you tried 14# fluoro on an ultralight reel and weren't happy you probably wouldn't swear off fluoro completely. I don't know the size of the guides on this particular rod I can vouch that a #4 guide with a ceramic insert will pass an Albright knot joining 50# PP and 17# fluoro with no problem. Make sure the tag ends are trimmed flush. The mass producers have figured out what custom builders have known for a while, that the lightest guide that will do the job will help squeeze the most performance out of a blank. If they decide to abandon that reasoning it only helps me and other builders but I don't see it.

I'm not as down on Quantum as some. I like the extra crank support bearing and pinion posts molded into the frame. Grindy gears are a common complaint and sadly the QC and fit & finish can be problems too.

Going back and forth between low profile and 4600 size reels is no problem as far as I'm concerned but it really is personal preference. Some guys don't even use different models from the same brand because continuity is a priority for them. BTW Robert Oakden, I see Sacandaga and Galway in your profile. I'm right down the road a piece.

Those three are all built on the same platform. There are some minor differences but just going with the best deal is not a bad way to go.

"Reconditioned" could mean different things to different people. Wherever you buy vet the seller and be as sure as you can that they are reputable. Beyond that all you can do is hope for the best or spring for NIB.

On any signature reel part of what you're paying for is that signature. The JM reels at BPS and old Skeet Revo are decent but still over priced comparatively. The reason these guys put there name on this stuff is marketing, which is their real job. Of the millions of consumers that buy tackle I believe the few here on the forum that actually care about their tackle and take fishing seriously are a small minority. From a purely business sense I can see them wanting to sell a million $80 reels than a few thousand $200 ones. These ratios are extreme but you can see my point.

You don't need to spend $200 for a reel to learn on. A $100> will get you a quality reel that you won't "outgrow" as you become more skilled at casting. The round reels have a place in bass fishing but that one has way more line capacity than you need. I suggest a BPS Pro Qualifier on sale which will be under $100. Other possibilities are Shimano Citica, or ABU Revo S to name just a few.

When I do club tx's we know the draw ahead of time and touch base with one another a day or two before the tx. We discuss what we expect to be doing. As a co-angler I go out of my way to keep tackle brought on board to a minimum without being put at a disadvantage then add a c-rig which can save the day fishing from the back of the boat. Usually end up actually using 2-3 combos each day.

I agree with flushing bearings as a first step. If you decide to buy bearings down the road I can size them for you.

It really boils down to personal preference in this case. Mine is for a faster reel for jig fishing but the only application where ratio/IPT make a real difference is deep cranks. A slower more powerful reel is less tiring over a day of cranking.

The rod has much more impact on casting distance especially in a spinning setup.

The internals aren't all that different from the US reels, I don't see parts as a problem. IMO the rarity of the JDM reels is what commands the higher prices.

At $5 a piece of you don't want them I'll take'em lol