Delaware Valley Tackle

x2 I'll take it a step further and say I fish hi vis braid tied direct with no ill effects.

Each line type has applications where it shines over the others. Fluoro isn't necessarily stronger than mono. Fluoro is intended to be less visible but there is not 100% agreement on the importance of that. I like it as a leader for abrasion resistance. Zebra mussel beds can shred braid quickly. As for visibility to fish I don't pay it much mind and tie direct unless the water is gin clear. Even then line diameter gets downsized before changing material. I might use a mono leader for a top water bait as it floats as does braid but it's stiffer and not as likely to foul the hooks. I like 20# Hi-Vis braid so I can see it with a leader in certain circumstances. You don't need backing on a braid ready spool for it to work, but backing and two casts worth of main line is more economical.

x2

x2 I can't count the number of Quantums I've serviced that took longer to get the side plate off than to strip & rebuild the whole reel.

This is an area always inspected when I service a spinning reel. Not only nicks but caked on residue and such can cause friction.

yup that works

The Spy Bait lures I've seen are like 3/8 oz which is likely at the top end of a ML lure range. For the Spy Bait I look for a 7 1/2 foot Med mod/fast to keep the trebles hooked up. For finesse drop shot I like ML XF 6'9".

It's very difficult to remove the pin without damaging it or the spool without a proper tool. Strip the line and flush the bearing in place by spraying with carb cleaner. Alternatively, leave the line on and find a shallow bottle cap etc to dip the bearing in place.

Folks have adapted the drop shot rig to fit a number of circumstances. If you're talking about the traditional method of vertical jigging with finesse baits, a 6'9" ML/XF is the way to go.

Has anyone tried these yet? http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=arbogast+buzz+plug+video&FORM=VIRE4#view=detail&mid=7E3F268DEDC0F6346C2A7E3F268DEDC0F6346C2A It looks a lot more versatile than a regular buzzbait which I almost never throw.

Daiwa makes good casting reels in general. The Tatula is just no exception. The T wing deal is kinda cool but it's the general Daiwa engineering that makes it what it is. I wouldn't expect the T wing to be any more or less durable than any other level wind.

If you're that worried that a product will break that warranty policy plays heavily into a buying decision you're likely not making a good investment. I'm not saying the PQ is not a good investment, it sure is, just pointing out that good companies stand behind their offerings or aren't around long. No need to stress over fine print.

Some feel that straight fluoro is more sensitive on semi-slack line due to the stiffness and it sounds valid, but I fish braid on 90% of my reels and only on rare occasion use a leader. When I do it's not due to visibility it's so I can break off in snag infested areas.

Yup, every line has trade-offs this is one for fluoro.

The sweet spot usually lies in the middle of the labeled range but it's all subjective. On the low end is where you'll notice the most difficulty casting as the rod won't load correctly. Distance and accuracy will both suffer. On the to end over loading gives the rod s sluggish feel that can affect accuracy. A snap cast with a greatly overloaded rod can break tips but it takes more than you might think.

Line weight ratings on a freshwater rod are meaningless other than to loosely suggest possible applications. You're safe to run the braid of your choice on any rod you have. I discourage the practice of locking down drags regardless of line choice as it puts unnecessary stress on the line, rod and reel.

The hardest thing about casting c-rigs is the long leader. Concentrate on casting the weight and not the bait. 35 yards is not a bad cast. There's not a lot of advantage to much longer casts unless maybe you're shore bound or throwing deep cranks.

All a reel does is hold line. Tarpon can be caught on fly tackle. There simply is no logical argument that either type reel is better than the other. They're just tools. It's like arguing which is better, the hammer or screwdriver?

Penn is another Pure Fishing company and puts out good products. The Battle has metal frame and side-plates which is a big plus. With 7 bearings it should be fairly smooth. It's not light at 9 1/2 oz. for a 2000size. Not a bad looking reel.

Both spinning and casting tackle have their time and place. Neither is necessarily "better" than the other. In general spinning tackle handles light line (10#<) and lighter baits (<1/2oz) better. Casting tackle handles heavy line and baits better and is more accurate casting to many users. With all else being equal (rod power, action, length, bait and conditions) spinning can not be beat for flat out casting distance.

You may have better results if you temper your casting stroke a little. Muscling a cast usually has poor results be it backlash or decreased distance. Be sure the lure weight is optimum for the rod, probably somewhere in the mid range. Some baits have a weight in the body that will shift forward on the cast to gain some distance. A bait's weight and profile affect casting distance too. An object will only store enough energy to fly just so far matter how hard you throw it or how fast a reel spins.

Practice with a relatively heavy weight (3/4 oz) and set the spool tension tight (so the weight barely drops) Make easy lob casts. Muscling a cast is the surest way to get in trouble with a baitcaster. You can peel off 1 1/2 casts worth of line and put a strip of electrical tape on the spool. That way when you do get a backlash it won't go too deep. Biggest thing is to just keep practicing

I agree. The PQ is such a bargain even at full retail I can't see messing with the lesser models. I have an older Tourney that works fine but I stay on top if and it's not heavily used. Whether it's a PQ or something else, I prefer and recommend centrifugal or dual brakes. They're more user friendly imo.

Nice report. It's cool that you've stayed on this so long. I'd like a nickel for every "initiative" or "project" I've seen fall by the wayside in the corporate world in a fraction of the time you have into this.

Structure is relative. In a featureless body like this a 1 foot trench somewhere could hold fish. The pilings of the bridge, any inlet or outlet and the corners are the first places I'd look. I'd also comb the bottom in a grid fashion with a C-rig feeling for any change in depth, cover or bottom composition and make mental note of what you find. Also sounds like the fish are pressured which can mean finesse tactics are called for. A Senko or Ika inched along the bottom SLOWLY should get some bites, if not I'd start looking for new water.