Delaware Valley Tackle
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Everything posted by Delaware Valley Tackle
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Scott hit the nail on the head in as far as the importance of the rod. Once that's addressed finesse bait-casters use small, light weight, shallow spools. The light weight starts up easier on the cast. The braking system is almost irrelevant since you'll likely use minimal spool tension and zero brakes.
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^^^Yup easy and effective
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Any one of these reels is up to the task. It comes down to personal preference for features and what you can get the best deal on. Personally, I prefer cent. braking for example which would rule out the MG.
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As far as quality and durability are concerned they're both solid. The difference in IPT may sway you one way or the other. From a servicing standpoint I like Shimano's A/R best of all since it's an enclosed unit.
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Colored lubes like Hot Sauce etc will dye the solvent but it's those white flakes that are the emulsifying grease and oil. I'm also using Perfect Solution upon JF's recommendation. Good stuff.
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Cheap bushing in place of 3rd spool bearing low quality spool bearings carbon fiber drag washers frayed and appear to be hand cut rough edges on spool "Geary" feel These aren't terrible reels but are over priced IMO
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Any finesse rod including spinning setups will benefit from properly applied lightweight guides. If icing and filimnetous algae are not big concerns I put micros on nearly every bass rod I build for myself and more often than not for customers.
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This should still be under warranty. Either the retailer or Shimano will surely repair/replace. I can't recommend a DIY fix without seeing it.
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For the price, there are a number of better reels available over the Lexa. Price is my only concern about Daiwa reels in general when buying new. I was glad to see them come out with an offering at the Lexa price point, but it's not quite on par with others at the same price.
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The roller is press fit if it doesn't come out with finger pressure. Spray and soak with Simple Green etc. and rinse with hot running water. Repeat as necessary. Relube with a swab of light oil. If the bearing is bad, you'll need a new side plate from BPS.
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Over night soaking is over kill. Your betetr off to soak for 5min swish and swap fluid. Repeat until solvent remains clear. Dry well, lube and reinstall.
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X2. In addition, your grip has an affect on balance. The reel being right near the grip has minimal affect. Sensitivity comes from the weight to stiffness ratio among other things. I prefer to keep over all weight at a minimum in most cases.
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There's no magic as far as lubes are concerned. Any quality lube in the proper application on clean parts will work fine. New bearings are typically way over lubed and this is usually apparent as white flakes in the solvent. Try swishing them around to flush any loose stuff laying inside. A clean dry bearing should spin by hand quietly for several seconds. One drop of oil on the race will slow it down and can be seen soaking in.
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How are you defining "high capacity"? Will you be likely to hook bigger fish than just bass? You can get enough braid on a 200 size reel to be fine bass fishing. If you'll use large diameter line like 20# mono/fluoro and likely to encounter pike, musky etc you may want to look at a 300 size or 4600 round reel.
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^^ That's right. It also doesn't take much misalignment or improper seating to bind things up.
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That washer goes on top of the spring washers for the drag star to push on. It's not life or death but not "Right" the way you have it. Since the stack has all parts present it will work.
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x2 Same goes for "micro" guides when applied correctly.
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A small slotted screwdriver with a thick enough handle to get a grip should be all you need. Be sure to hold it straight and bear down so as not to slip and strip the head.
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Cores came with open bearings. Won't hurt a thing and often done intentionally as stated above.
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Acetone works better than Naptha and I believe is a little safer but either will work for bearings. Dawn, Simple Green etc is all you need for the rest. Even after soaking gears in solvent they'll need brushing so no need to over do it with the solvents. Acetone will raise heck with plastics and finishes.
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If you're getting wind knots or digging braid can snap since it has no stretch hence poor shock resistance. Barring that practice your knots
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Mis-matching rod pieces won't yield a good result. Trade/return etc for something else.
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Replacement of the guide is a must. If you can get a replacement for the rod, so much the better. Fishing with missing inserts or trying to glue inserts back on will cause problems with your line.
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Don't try removing the bearing from the spool. Blast it out with brake or carb cleaning spray before spooling line on. Without the proper tool damaging the spool is too likely. For a brand new reel I'd suggest just fishing it hard and having it serviced during the off season.
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