Delaware Valley Tackle

It won't hurt anything, but an Arbor Knot is so easy to tie I don't see the need.

Grip extensions can be accomplished a couple different ways. Cutting off the butt cap, gluing in an extension material and redoing the grip is one. A screw in "Fighting Butt" is another. A collapsable butt is yet another option, however there's not much advantage unless the finished product will be over 7'6"

I use Minima4 guides fairly regularly and have had no problems at all with them. They are economical, but that does not necessarily make something poor quality. On a $100 rod, the weight savings is a reasonable tradeoff IMO. They may not last two lifetimes with dirty braid run thru them regularly but you'll get your $ worth unless "proprietary" means 2nd run super cheap. That doesn't appear to be the case with Duckett in general though.

Don't look a gift horse in the mouth. Use and treasure the gift. With that said, the only thing that makes any product worth any price is the market's willingness to pay as already stated. The point of diminishing returns on a bait cast reel is around $300. I agree completely with the comparison to the Core. I see more issues with Steez's than I'd expect from a high end reel.

Also keep in mind, you can move a fish a lot easier with the rod than any reel. You also have a drag to protect the whole train. Stripped gears isn't anything to worry about.

But not everything you know, right? lol

Thanks Big-O and Goose for the kind words.

Whether it's Shimano or any other line, $100> gets you into longer lasting, better performing reels. IMO Pflueger spinning reels are hard to beat on a bang-for-your-buck basis especially from the President model and up.

If it's your dream (or making it a reality) why wouldn't you go with something completely custom? The point of diminishing returns on an over the counter rod is right around $250-$275. A competent builder can give you more bang for your buck at this price range and even below.

As both a reel tech and former lube oil distributor, brand is totally personal preference. The keys are to use quality products in an appropriate application on CLEAN parts. Drags require special drag grease (if it's not a dry system), which can serve as a gear grease as well otherwise a water resistant marine grease works well. A med weight multi purpose oil on sliding parts(clutch etc) and a light weight oil for bearings (REM oil, Mfg Oil, even sewing machine oil). A bearing packer for a few DIY reels is overkill, I'd use a heavy oil for frame bearings. 80-140 gear lube works well and is a good middle ground on worm gears. You can lightly swab the AR in baitcasters with a light oil. spinning reel AR's, specifically shimanos should be left dry.

These comparisons aren't apples / apples price wise. The Curado is probably the best built by a small margin but highest price. The PQ is the best value unless you get a Shimano on clearance as suggested. The Lews is in there with the Citica and PQ. None will disappoint take the best deal.

Think NASCAR: Drive Fast Turn Left. You'll get there eventually

I've seen guys spin test a bearing to see which direction it spins best in and install them that way. Myself, if a bearing is "directional" it gets tossed.

The purpose of guides is to distribute stress along the length of the blank when it is under a load. In the case of spinning guides, they also tame the line coils coming off the reel which aids casting. As you'll see on the manufacturer sites they come in various frame and ring materials. The lightest guide that will get the job done yields the best performance by protecting the blanks inherent characteristics. The higher the weight/strength ratio the more expensive the guide will be. With modern guides and lines, grooving etc. is a minimal concern except possibly at the very lowest end.

Drag grease can be used for gears but regular grease needs to be kept away from the drag.

For hard core pike/musky fishing go right to the 400 size. In the meantime snag that 250 as suggested.

If the parts are clean and lubed with no signs of wear the bail wire could be bent. This puts side pressure on the arms and causes binding. You can try tweaking it a little by hand but be careful. It will probably need to be replaced eventually if it is bent.

A person of smaller stature, whether they're a lady or a youth may find that a shorter butt grip and smaller diameter gip is a little more comfortable but that's all really. The same goes for some men and their best bet is a custom build. The differences are so slight and the comparatively small share of the market with a strong enough interest, I think keeps maunfacturers from investing in an exclusive line-up.

Definetely PVC is the way to go. I buy central vacume piping when I can find it. It's strong enough and lighter so you save on the cost and shipping. 90% of the time ends up being reg schedule 40

X2. The lube topic has been well covered, a search will provide plenty of reading. Determine whether your drag is a wet or dry system and remember that onlt special drag can be used on them, however it will work on gears as well. I still suggest a complete frame-off deep cleaning be done on some interval, maybe bi-annually if you're doing regular DIY.

I've worked on some Lexas and was under-whelmed. At that pricepoint the PQ is a better value IMO.

Spin time videos are about as overblown a hype as I've ever seen. There are just too many variables. It's a cool in that it's a visual difference, but there are a number of ways to improve a reels free-spool. The Hawgtech guys are straight shooters and stand up guys from all accounts. I'm a Boca Dealer because of brand recognition, quality products, good service and most importantly support if there ever is a problem.

It's a matter of preference and casting style/ability. Personally I prefer cent. brakes over mag only and ca take or leave dual brakes.

It sounds like you're talking about two different things. SS frames are fine for most apps. Ti are lighter and more corrosion resistant. S Hovanec's talking about guides with stainless rings like Minima 4s. These have worked well for me on light line, lite and ultra-lite builds. As to the OP, those are good guides for a rod in that price range.