Delaware Valley Tackle

X2 Your state tax dept. likely has some info on their site as to what's needed to start a small business but there's no replacement for professional advice.

IMO the advantage of a faster reel is to take up slack or catch up to a fish quickly for a hookset. I'd use that one for the bottom contact stuff and the 6:1 for the moving baits. It's still a preference at the end of the day though.

Fish the reel hard in its stock condition and send it in for service annually. I extend a 10% discount (off already low prices) to members here.

Mechanically there is little to no difference between the two. It comes down to which details and features you prefer and the value you place on them.

I don't like the knot scuffing my thumb either. I'll use an inexpensive limp mono in about 12# which lays nicely and makes a small knot I can bury without wasting too much braid.

Dawn, Simple Green, Perfect Solution etc. Look online for a schematic if you don't have one. Quantums can be a bear to disassemble with that latch setup on the level wind guard.

The spybaits are count down lures so avoid heavy lines (weight and diameter wise). A 4# fluoro or 10# braid w/ 6# leader are the way a lot are going. Rod wise I'd lean toward a spinning outfit, 7'6" with a Mod or mod/fast action. This will load nicely for long casts and help keep them hooked up.

I find myself leaning more toward ML/XF spinning rods and St Croix tend to fish a little heavier than similar rated rods. Of course the cover and bait you throw will dictate in the end.

IMO, it's bad form to return a gift of any kind. No problem here though, that's a nice gift that you can take pleasure using now and even more down the road on a high end rod.

These replacement scenarios are "Free to me" not free. Everyone who buys one of their rods is paying for the ones that use, and few that abuse the program. Replacing items "no questions asked" is a customer retention tool. By keeping their brand in the consumers hand they keep a competitor from possibly getting a foot in the door. A rod with a true defect will fail the first few times a good bend is put in it.

I've serviced several so far this winter. They are ok but not what I'me used to seeing in a Daiwa. They have a grindy feel that will likely return before the next service. Free spool was better but not the best even after servicing.

Technique labels on rods are just marketing. They're maybe useful as a suggestion if you're unfamiliar witha brand or new to a certain technique. What are you looking for in a rod?

3/8 oz isn't a real heavy bait. The first thing I'd check is the lure weight rating of the rod. I would expect the braid to cast a little better but not a ton over 12#. For the most part I would qualify 90' as a long cast. Of course more is possible under the right conditions but deep cranking is one technique where long casts really help. If the rod is not the problem I think you'll need to lighten up on the brakes and learn to thumb the spool more effectively.

I don't have one in front of me but the oscillation gear (small one) goes in first. Start with the pin toward the back of the reel and turn it until the alignment mark is as close as possible to where the stem of the main gear will insert. Insert the main gear with the arrow pointing right at the alignment mark of the other gear. Once right, it should oscillate smoothly with no "bump". Hope this helps. The bill's in the mail. (just kidding) Good luck

Spinning reels excel throwing light baits just due to the mechanics of a baitcaster, and for slack line presentations where a perfectly vertical fall is critical. For sheer casting distance, spinning can't be beat as long as it's set up correctly. You can get by bass fishing with all spinning or casting but being proficient with both opens up options and enhances the over all experience IMO.

Fast moving baits with some flash are good bets. I'm surprised no one mentioned lipless cranks. Gold w/ black back rattle-trap used to slay'em on Champlain.

The G Citica is not nearly as different from the E as the Curado E/G due to the reintroduction of the Chronarch label. The D series Citica is a super smooth reeling, and good casting reel and are built like a tank. The trade off is that they were heavy by to day's standard. The E was a smaller profile and lighter weight version. The G more or less just went to a combined platform with the Caenan, Citica & Curado. The CT and CU are still good performing workhorse reels, but the D&E have a more refined feel to them.

Ice, cottonwood and filamentous algae present problems requiring larger guides. The Minima 4 or Recoil guides are good solutions. You can get a small light guide with a larger inside dia.

At full retail it's a closer call, but $130 is a great deal on a Stradic.

The bearing blaster hold the bearing and directs/concentrates the spray stream. Solvents are bad enough to work with, I avoid combining them with aerosols if at all possible. For a reel here or there it's not as big a deal but then again neither is a few extra minutes.

Turning by hand is a pain, but I recommend doing it that way in the beginning to learn how epoxy acts. 2-3 thin coats gives a nice level finish. Everyone has to find the system that works for them and then be consistent.

6" off the tip of any bass rod will render it pretty much useless unless you need a short broom stick for some heavy bait. Trimming from either end of a blank slows the action. Off the butt reduces power and off the tip raises lure weight range.

here: http://www.lowes.com/pd_166923-24296-PS48532_0__?productId=3377990

The level wind guide threads into the side plate. Never open a reel without the schematic. http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/shimano/Shimano_CH101A.pdf

Reels should be torn down periodically regardless of what lube is used. Dirt and contaminates still need to be cleaned out. The benefit to TSI IMO is a more free spinning spool bearing and maybe a little less in between attention required. Grease or heavy oil are my preference for frame bearings. There's no base line for a comparison to be sure how long a lube will last without negative affects until the part is already worn.